dr_mat

Don't forget the intermediate cog on the timing chains, and the attached oil pump drive gear. That wears and clatters on old VR6s too ...

(Ticking that sounds like it comes from the back of the block is probably the oil pump gears, iirc..) But back to the main subject here.. that's awful. And deeply unlucky. I've heard of several people say they've discovered chain tensioner problems when there was no tell-tale noises to accompany it as a warning, and maybe that's what happened to you?

I've never heard of a VR6 ABS controller helpfully flashing out error codes before.. I did find one other instance listed on the net, but wonder if this is a freak with a few specific models, cos I've had wheel sensor failures, and valve block failures, and voltage low B12+ failures, and the led on the dash has never done anything other than come on, and stay on.. Did you ever have the ABS controller replaced?

The official VAGCOM cables are quite expensive, because they come with an embedded software license enabler, but yeah the generic ones where you either use your own software enabler or the freebie version, they are very cheap. They're actually quite simple. I have to say my £30 cable has saved me a small fortune over the years, was well well worth the investment.

Corrado's don't have an ABS controller that flashes error codes on the dash. You need to plug the diags computer in - that's by far the quickest and easiest way of finding out what's up. Check the VAGCOM thread to find someone near you who can help.. or buy a cheap cable off ebay and use your own laptop - it's pretty straightforward to get the freebie version of Ross-Tech's VAGCOM software working.

Depends where the chain fails.. if it fails at the bottom pulley or near there it'd probably be pulled all the way through, drop in the sump and stay there. Very quiet engine from then on, but the valves ain't moving ..

No doubt, and where you've simply got too much power for *all* the driving wheels to handle, you've only got two choices: lift yer right foot, or kill the engine output electronically.

Yep, can see the logic in using them together ..

I've heard good things about this system, but how does it really compare to a LSD? This is the equivalent under acceleration to a single-channel ABS system for braking (i.e. the electronics have only one way to prevent slip). You really need to independently control the power going to each wheel, which is what the built-in VR6 traction control attempts to do. (In a totally half-arsed sort of way which doesn't really work at all, of course.)

Relay 109 rings bells ... use the search, luke ...

Hmm, might be wise to join the AA and get it towed home ...

There's also the optimate series chargers, also good. TBH no matter what the rating of the charger or battery, if you start from a reasonably well charged battery, it'll keep it sorted in the long term. If you expect to pull a flat battery back to life, you need to pay the money required to get a capable enough charger.. or use a bulk charger to do the grunt work then put it on a trickle charger to top it up or keep it fresh.

My guess is it says "hey, dude, buy a new voltmeter"! It might be worth replacing the battery in it, see if that makes it speak sense.

Yeah, depends what you mean by "won't turn over.." -- if the starter is running but the engine won't fire, it's a crank sensor, but if the starter isn't running then yeah, could be a relay, could be a sticky starter, etc..etc..

Your votlmeter is telling you bullshit. Get another one. No lead acid car battery will put out 14v, ever.

Yeah, you can bet that VW are canny about sourcing parts from the cheapest supplier just like GSF et al are ... It's not like they have a stockpile of these parts from the original manufacturing production runs sitting on the shelf any more.

A screwed lead acid battery will show good volts, but hold no actual charge. A VR6 wanting to start will pull between 120 and 200 amps, the battery needs to be healthy. If your work car also shows 18v it either has a screwed alternator or you have a screwed voltmeter..

Hmm, I've heard of Schrick control flap problems before.. I hope this isn't a trend..

yeah, the alternator's output regulator has gone. putting 18.5v through a battery on a long term basis will somewhat knacker it. You can use such high voltages for very short periods only, if you're attempting to desulphate a degraded battery. step 1) new regulator (or whole new alt.), step 2) new battery..!

Sounds a lot like typical crank sensor symptoms to me .... aka "engine speed sensor". But be sure it's gone before you replace it - they're hideously expensive - so check the basics. Plugs, fuelling etc etc..

Interesting stuff! I assume this is setup to do fuel cut on the VR6, rather than spark cut?

You know what? *Everyone* does this *once*. Next time you'll make damn sure you're watching the car in front ALL the time, and not making assumptions about what they're going to do. You just never know when they're going to stall it, or chicken out (they don't all have 2.9 litres of oomph and balls of steel). It's always worthwhile driving with the basic assumption that everyone else on the road is truly an idiot and should never have been given a license... :)

The average Corrado VR6 drains about 70 mA so will flatten the average battery in 3-4 weeks. If you have the ability to do it (i.e. a garage or a driveway close to a window), your best bet is a cheap and cheerful lead acid battery and a trickle charger to maintain its state. As long as you don't allow a lead acid battery to become discharged it will theoretically never let you down. If you use your car every day, of course, none of this is a problem ..

I have to say, I think you've answered your own question: VW don't sell 'em so you have no choice but to go to GSF/ECP. They're probably the same part anyway. Don't know who told you the aftermarket ones have loads of trouble, but I still think you'll have less trouble with a new aftermarket sensor than a dead VW one... ;) ABS sucks on snow, but it is a critical safety component in general use. I had forgotten that my VR has traction control. Over the last two days I've been constantly reminded!

VIN number will determine which sensor you need.