dr_mat

Hmm. You are scrapping the 205, or you aren't scrapping it because you negotiated such a good deal without it ... ? Confused now!

It's a ludicrous system. As you say you're crushing a perfectly good car for no real reason. You sure you couldn't negotiate £2k off the new car anyway?? I'd bet you'd get closer than you'd think, and the 205 has to be worth £500 of that on it's own.

You have THREE identical Corrados ???

It could indeed harm, it's not something you're supposed to do for fun! The ECU has had many many hours of adaptation to your engine completed so you shouldn't reset it for a laugh. Personally I'd figure out if you really do have a problem or not, before you spend ANY money or do ANYTHING destructive to the ECU. I'd be scanning the ECU for error codes as a first port of call.

A standard VR's torque curve is fairly low till you reach 3500 rpm where it starts to rapidly increase (cams coming on song). If you never go above 4k rpm you never get anything like the best of a VR.

It's possible the injector is stuck open flooding the cylinder, but that's rare. Get a spark tester first. I also doubt it's the coil pack because there's only three coils so you'd have trouble on TWO cylinders if the CP was faulty. You may well have a duff lead or spark plug though, and that's the obvious place to start. Note that once the cylinder is that badly flooded you'll likely have to run it with some significant throttle (i.e. get a lot of air through it) before it will clear enough to start burning again. I sincerely doubt you have a broken valve/valve stem, you'd well know about that!

Not to mention some of this bad-ass tuning gear.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0318922902

Well, at least it's representative of what you can buy out there. Lots of used Corrados with Crustal rear lights around.

Sounds fine.

There's two similar "sensors" on the VR6 engine, but they're not both crank sensors. If those two are the same part number I wouldn't worry about the difference, they just changed the design over the years. They do that a lot.

That's weird. Still, on WOT mode it's ignoring the lambda. It'll probably be running quite rich though.

You taped the WOT switch which way? Open or closed? Could be the lambda I suppose, if a G60 has one. If the ECU was on WOT mode all the time I'd expect it to run very strangely though ..

That's really weird, can't imagine the ABS having a permanent live when the ignition is off, so maybe your ignition switch is faulty too .. ? Does the dash ABS lamp light up? Open the bonnet and disconnect one of the ABS sensor lines (runs over the top of the suspension turrets, there's a handy little inline connector on each one). That should totally disable the ABS because it will have a solid fail on one of the sensors. If it doesn't .. you might need a new ABS ECU.

Yeah one or more sensors going. VAG-COM it.

Depends if you feel like you can 100% rely on it. And if it lets you down, how important is it that you get to where your job dictates you need to be? If you can get away with just not turning up cos the car is in a mood then fair enough, do that, or you know your car so well and you'd be ok about fixing stuff roadside anytime then go for it!

Im keeping mine until I can sell it for more than the £8900 I paid for it 8 years ago :grin: Thats my excuse for hanging on to it for the next 20 years anyway :lol: LOL indeed. :) You'll be waiting for the devaluation of the pound then .. ! Let's go hire Zimbabwe's finance minister..!

Ok maybe they'll "head up" but I hardly think anyone's going to be in danger of making back their annual insurance costs here, let alone making an actual profit .. ! Noting that the youngest Corrado is still only 14 years old -ish and they're not THAT rare yet, even in minty condition I think you're gonna have to hold on a fair while yet before they start making inroads into the collector's realm.

What did you change? What was causing the drain? Boot light??

40ma will drain your battery in about 2 months, so that's not a lot at all, no.

TBH I can't see this happening. New cars are getting ever cheaper and it's only the handful of truly mint cars that will show gains as their rarity increases. The average run-of-the-mill Corrado is just going to be another slightly ugly ageing coupe in most people's eyes. Less and less people want to run ever older cars, particularly one with the known foibles and part supply problems of this one..

Ok, so for mechanicals you're right they're not *that* bad I guess. But trim parts are either outlandishly expensive (and they fail regularly too) or simply unavailable other than from scrapyards ..

Errr no I wouldn't leave it empty. You'll find the steering is unbelievably heavy and the components will corrode as you suggested. Temporarily it's not a problem, but make sure it's only temporary.

".. running costs should be low .." WTF?

LOL yeah they'll get quite hot if you short it out. You're probably lucky you used two sets of leads, and one of these was a bit crap. That limited the amount of current the battery could dump .. Otherwise you might well have had an explosion ..

Charge meters judge the level of charge in a battery purely by it's output voltage, and 11.6v is considered to be "discharged". I've no doubt that faulty batteries with some good and some bad cells, or batteries based on non-standard chemistry will deliver lots of current at 10.5v (or a discharged battery's output voltage will drop to 10.5 volts under load), but a healthy battery with all good cells is pretty close to dead at 11.2v. Mine won't start the car with less than about 11.8 volts showing on the voltmeter.