dr_mat

You can give it a try .... But I doubt the colour will be sufficient to get out of it. If they got the number plate right and the time/location and the ticket is all above board in that respect they're unlikely to let you off just cos it's dirty ... ;)

You're asking on a Corrado Forum? I would say they're like chalk and cheese. But what do I know, I own a Corrado...!

Impossible to say, isn't it, really? If you're worried about it, don't drive it until you can get the pressure tested! Would I carry on driving if my oil pressure light was on? Only if it went out in the next few seconds..!

In other words you want the members of the forum to tell you if the pressure is *really* low, or you just have a faulty sensor, to make you feel better? Come on, be realistic, without real pressure readings we have less idea than you do! FWIW I believe there's a separate oil pressure sensor for the idle speed and mid-revs ranges, so it's most likely you just have a faulty sensor, but come on, we can't second guess what's going on in your engine if you can't!

Sounds reasonable, yes.

Pretty sure this has been discussed before. Basically when you connect your ohmeter across the terminals of the sensor, you should see 1500-3000 ohms. Anything significantly lower means short circuit, significantly higher means open circuit. Either way you need to replace the sensor. No need to jack the car up, spin the wheels, or anything like that. There's no way you could interpret the signals from the sensor using a hand-held instrument anyway (except perhaps an oscilloscope, and you don't sound like the type who has one of those kicking about .. ).

Yep, that would be about right.

To add to the comments already made .. GSF use Sachs Advantage or Boge Turbogas shocks for the VR - these were VW original equipment, and are gas-over-oil dampers. (The VW ones are just a different colour, they are otherwise identical.) You *will* notice an improvement over your 90k mile suspension just by spending the £100 or so putting new shocks on. If you don't want to lower it, don't. Pretty much all aftermarket kits will harden the ride, which may not be your choice, even if the result is "better" handling. They're popular on the continent, but they don't have any potholes over there..

Why are you dropping the rack off?! Just remove the track rod end, slide the old boot off, slide a new one on, refit track-rod end, job is done. If your rack was shafted it would either be pissing power steering fluid everywhere or it would be notchy. Just replace the boots now and see how you go.

It's possible ... And it's definitely more cost effective to replace rather than repair. Have a look around the forum. Last time I looked there were a couple of complete VR6 engines for sale for just a few hundred quid. Find a decent VW specialist who can fit it for you and away you go.

Check the wiring on the coolant temperature sensors and replace them if necessary. They're on the thermostat housing, there's several sensors.. I think the one you want is the blue one .. The idle speed adaptation limit not reached is probably due to a sticky/stuck ISV.

How big is the TSR body bored to? Bearing in mind the ABV has a bigger bore body than the AAA 2.8 in the first place ..

The fence is the right place to be. I repeat: there are no hard and fast rules. YOU must make your decision based on the condition of the car you are looking at. If necessary inspect the tensioners yourself before committing to the purchase, but you might be walking away from a cracking car if you just assume the worst.

I've heard that Vince at Stealth is the only person in the known universe who has "da knowlij" about ordering Goodridge hoses for Corrados. He had to order three sets for mine, and kept telling them they had the wrong bits in, until he gave up and made up a set from others ..

You could have your leg bitten off by a passing wolf? You could have a heart attack because of the shock and surprise of something on your Corrado actually working as advertised?

The sunroof guides are supposed to be greased at every service.

Sounds like your sunroof control unit has the same problem that many others have reported (there's another thread mentioned it just a couple of days ago). As you speculate, if you press the "close" and you *don't* hear a click, the control unit isn't even *trying* to move the motor. Therefore the problem MUST be electrical, and almost certainly in the control unit.

If you want cheap and reliable, you want the 2.0 8v. The others all have too many valves, and too many chains/belts/extras and get thrashed too hard to be reliable long term. A mint VR6 with 70k on it has around equal probability of needing engine work as a tatty one with 170k. There are no hard and fast rules. Just be careful when you check it over and make sure that you don't have *immediate* work requirements on it.

Plenty of discussions already about this. Any car over 100k miles must be judged on condition and performance alone, IMHO. It doesn't matter one jot what "hasn't been done", as long as the car is working well, right?

Looks like he's still wearing his first trousers too..

Yes, but doesn't it also explain what size bolts to use when you've retapped it? I assume, anyway.

Might be an idea to list the others .. they might be related. How long do you wait cranking it before hitting the pedal? Are you sure it doesn't just take a few more turns? Probable causes of cold start problems are the array of temp sensors on the engine, and possibly injector problems too. First things first, get the ECU errors read and start there.

Quite fast. Yes, I would say, "faster than most, but not as fast as others". ;) But more seriously, I tend to find that Stealth hours of labour go further than anyone else's hours of labour. They might charge for every hour, and they're no longer a "bargain", but they can carry out the job more quickly than anyone else too, just because they have the experience.

There were 100,000 Corrados made, ever. There were 500 Storms made, ever. It's easy to go days or weeks without seeing another Corrado on the roads. There are what, 10 million Golfs out there? Need more be said? Ok, I'd admit that the Golf 5 is quite different from the Golf 4, which is quite different from the Golf 3 etc etc.. they're the same car in name only, but hey. Hand-made limited production run coupes they are NOT.

That's when VWs were strongest!! Good, honest,solid german metal.... not namby pamby pedestrian friendly plastic wings and bonnets... True, but a complete lack of internal safety gear, innit! You're just as likely to be skewered by the steering column or trapped by the seat submarining ...