dr_mat

If you haven't received an offer of payment under their write-off terms, you still own the car. Basically they have committed to buy the car off you in the event of a claim being made. Once they own the car, you are bound by whatever terms they decided upon when you signed the conrtact (and signed off the write-off terms), but while you still own the car you can a) push up their offer so it makes it more likely they would change their mind and get it repaired b) offer to buy it back from them .. whether they "don't do that" or not, they may well be persuaded if you're going to make their lives difficult otherwise ...

Man you people have nothing important to worry about! A bit of a minor hiccup on a very damp day with cheap fuel is the least of your worries when you're driving a VR .. ! :)

I'm pretty sure I read a thread recently saying the G60 wasn't an interference engine design, so the valves NOT hitting the pistons doesn't necessarily mean your timing is right ...

I believe that with the right equipment yes you can flash a new mileage onto a set of clocks (and even then it can only be done *upwards*), but it's dealer-only and you're unlikely to find them doing it for fun and certainly not for free.

Mine's like that too, it's never been an issue. The VR6 exhaust isn't far away from the tunnel there (in fact it's probably the catalyst), it just gets warm that's all. Don't worry about it.

So you think you can outrun the coppers' Elise .. ? No matter, they'll just get the helicopter out and tail you till you run out of fuel... ;)

That's a nice way of doing it. I was trying to use an ammeter in circuit .. it's a bit cumbersome..

That was funny ..

Well start at the top .. Coilpack/plugs/leads/fuel supply .. then do a VAG-COM, read the ECU for faulty sensors (perhaps a sensor got soaked and just needs to dry out?).

If the voltage across the battery is 13.75 then the alternator (and all it's connections) are perfectly fine. You have something that is leaking current when the ignition is off flattening your battery (or you have a dead battery .. ).

The corrado would only have left the factory with ZR rated tyres (if that is in fact what it did, does anyone know?) because at the time there was no V rating. V rating is sufficient for the top speed of the car, and it will pass the MOT with V rated tyres.

This would happen if it lost power completely ..

You must have hooked the control wires up wrong or something .. Can't really say exactly what you might have done wrong, but you've pretty much no choice but to remove and refit it (again) to try and find out .. :)

ZR is the old nomenclature anyway, technically it has been obsoleted by V/W/Y, but it still hangs around... http://www.blackcircles.com/general/speedrating

Does your spoiler work? I heard that the fuel pump shares a fuse with the spoiler motor .. ! (Not that that would prevent 12v making it to the sensors from the ECU.) What stuff needs replacing for OBD2 then? I was under the impression it was relatively simple, but obviously not if it's a good day's labour...

That looks excellent, nice find. Let us know if anyone orders one..! I have two tatty VR6 grille badges, got them off ebay when they were plentiful. One in red, one in silver. Neither actually go on the car unless I'm going to a show!

I thought the full OBD2 conversion only cost a few hundred quid, and gained you driveability, and around 3 miles per gallon? It'll pay for itself in a year or two! If you're looking at an ECU repair it may well be cheaper to go OBD2 in the medium term.

You should be able to fully charge the battery from flat after a few hours running, yes, but if it's holding 13.75 volts with the engine running I don't think you have a problem with the alternator. Suggest you get clamp meter or an ammeter and hook it up in series with the battery to see what current you're pulling from the battery when the ignition is off. To lose all power from a (60 Ah) battery in less than a day implies a current of over 2 amp, which is fairly hefty leakage. If you can get a live current reading with the ignition off, the next step is to run through the fusebox pulling fuses until the current drops down to less than a few hundred mA (2-3 hundred milliAmps seems to be "normal" for Corrados). You will be unlikely to get it lower than this, short of removing ALL the fuses ...

There's a few Golf VR6 ECUs on ebay, http://search.ebay.co.uk/vr6-ecu .. Not sure if they'd work with the Corrado VR6 wiring loom though. At least you have a late VR, so it's got all the right sensors and a coil pack.

Can you swap the ECU? Can you still not talk to it with VAGCOM? What about jumping the relay 109 socket with a bit of wire, make sure there's 12V at the ecu and then see if you can talk to it? The ECU is responsible for providing power to the sensors, so it makes sense to start looking there.

Also make sure it's being charged by the engine .. what's the voltage when the engine is running? Should be 13-14V. And at 12 V after a run, it's probably still only about 20-30% charged, which means you only get about 10-15 Ah, and it'll go flat really quickly .. Also note that you should let the battery "rest" for a while after it has been charged - the voltage immediately after a charge will be unrepresentatively high, so your 12.05 volts could be false..

You wouldn't ask the question if you didn't want us to say "YES"! ;)

Wossup with an R32 conversion.. ? :)

I think the whole kit, fixed column, shrouds, bolts will cost less than a ton from the dealers, it's small beer compared to the adjustable one .. The column mount is a heavy metal bracket, with four shear bolts through it to hold it tight to the bulkhead. These bolts must be drilled out and replaced with standard ones when you work on it. Check them for tightness...

I would agree with your diagnosis - water pump failure. Don't recall the exact location of the article in question, but I'd look here: http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/Main_Page