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I've only just got my damn MAF fixed and now this! Basically my battery began to die. I think this was just because it was a sealed unit and so i was unable to top up the ionised water and it eventually got so low it became useless. So another 45 quid on a new battery and it started healthier than i've known it too. That was about 4 hours ago and it's sat on the drive patiently waiting to go out until all of a sudden it started raining (may or may not be related) and the damn alarm went off for no reason. I went out, turned it off and jumped in to start her just to be sure there wasn't anything draining the juice from the battery. No Problems - so came back inside. Within 2 mins the alarm was wailing again! Turned it off.....same thing happened 2 mins later! I noticed that as I shut the door the hazards flash - that's shut, not lock, just shut (obviously activating the switch in the door hinge area). Also, while I had it running on the driveway it would randomly flash the hazards. I decided to leave it unlocked and stood there watching (in the rain). Instead of the alarm screaming, this time it just started flashing the hazards. I have a factory fit Logic 900 Alarm and Immobiliser.....anyone got any clues?

Wow! I'm overwhelmed with responses! Thanks guys! :lol: Anyway - it's fixed (sort of, but more of that later). A new MAF sensor and she goes like the clappers once more. Just for your info it was an exchange program - so my new MAF only cost 70 quid. Next problem isn't really for this thread but I don't know if it's related or not. Basically my battery began to die. I think this was just because it was a sealed unit and so i was unable to top up the ionised water and it eventually got so low it became useless. So another 45 quid on a new battery and it started healthier than i've known it too. That was about 4hours ago and it's sat on the drive patiently waiting to go out until all of a sudden it started raining (may or may not be related) and the damn alarm went off for no reason. I went out, turned it off and jumped in to start her just to be sure. No Problems - so came back inside. Within 2 mins the alarm was wailing again! Turned it off.....same thing! I noticed that as I shut the door the hazards flash - that's shut, not lock, just shut (obviously activating the switch in the door hinge area). Also, while running it would randomly flash the hazards. I decided to leave it unlocked and stood there watching it. Instead of screaming, this time it just started flashing the hazards. I have a factory fit Logic 900 Alarm and Immobiliser.....anyone got any clues?

Update: I initially clean the MAF and ISV on the same day to cure the random stalling problem often associated with a clogged up ISV. That appears to have gone, but has been replaced by this hunting, hesitancy and poor performance. I thought perhaps I either didn't clean the MAF properly or somehow knacked it. So I took those allen bolts off that hold the actual PCB style MAF in place and took a look at it properly, cleaned it thoroughly and all the electrical contacts and put it back... at first performance was crap, and the hesitancy and kanagaroo antics were just embarrassing. After I while it cleared itself up. You 'd think I would just be grateful with that but although not hesitant from take-off and idleing better it still feels completely flat way up until around 4000rpm. I get the feeling the ECU isn't getting the right data and pumping too much fuel to each cylinder and there is a bit of flooding going on causing this 'lag' and poor economy. This could be corroborated by the fact there is absolutely no difference with the MAF plugged in or unplugged and that my fuel economy is only about 20mpg. Anyone else agree with me that my MAF is dead before I go out and buy a new one?

Will a duff Lambda throw out an error code? According to VAG-COM it's not showing any.

Not Changed the blue sensor - is this the lamda? Can you explain what it does?

Yeah - where's the clip? I'm seeing a lot of people cure similar sounding problems to this through finding a leaky air hose...could this be my problem too? my VR6 suffers from hesitancy pull-away and low tickover/hunting. I've cleaned ISV and MAF, changed plugs, leads, fuel filter, air filter and oil filter.

Okay, So she's back from PitStop Motorsports. She's had a new set of HT leads, plugs, air, oil and fuel filter....yet still the tickover seems too low and is very hesitant when pulling away. While sitting at lights it will hunt - sometimes getting so low my ignition light will come on but the car will cough back into life. Even when tickover is being relatively 'steady' it's still so low as to produce an uncomfortable vibration throughout the car. At it's worst I put my foot an inch or two down on the gas and raise the clutch to pull away.....no response from the throttle so the car stutters as if to stall....then a sudden boost of fuel and a loud roar from the rear before i shoot off like a scolded kangaroo. Any clues?

Thanks for the feedback - as i said i was hesitant to start tampering with Idle settings as I know how finely balanced that whole set up is. Once you get something out of whack the ECU does funny things to try to rectify it. It does idle around 650-700rpm, so perhaps it's right on the money. Today though, I experienced hestitation under acceleration once it warmed up. Then, just to be a pain, after I stopped and restarted it was completely cured. Time to take her to the professionals me thinks. Thanks

That all sounds mighty familiar. I bought my VR6 from TCS - his name is Richard Townsend. I thought the same thing too - he had no people skills which is bad considering he's a car salesmen. Didn't want to talk, didn't want to give details of cars over the phone and because he knew I'd come from Newcastle he CERTAINLY wasn't going to budge on the price. I too got the line about "someone else coming to look at the car the next day - so I'd better snap it up now" he advised me. Mind you, he was nice and chatty when I returned the next week with a wad full of cash for him. His wife even made me and my dad a cuppa. That said my car has been fine, is in good nick with genuine service history. The only thing is i was lucky as the car I originally rang about was a complete dog and looked like someone had shot it with a shot gun on the front - stone chips everywhere! I spotted the one I now own in the corner of his yard and ended up buying that one. He DOES sell from his home, not just his lock up. And if you are buying a VR6 make sure it's got the front grille badge on. Mysteriously every single VR6 he had did NOT have a grille badge. First thing I did after buying my car was search ebay for one and guess what? Who's selling them for £30....but our mate Richard!

I had some starting problems with my ISV unplugged so decided to clean the MAF and replug the ISV back in as recommended. Mine's a later model, with the PCB style MAF, housed in the plastic tube that comes out the back of the airbox. All I could do was spray it with some contact cleaner and shake it about a bit. After re-fitting I experienced a bit of hunting, but after a few restarts and a run that cleared. It now seems to be fine - starting from cold this morning with no problem and not stalling at all. My only concern is that tick-over idle seems a little lower than it was previously. Not dangerously low - like it's going to stall, just a little too low for my liking. Should I consider adjusting this? If so how? Simply through the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body? Will the ECU not just compensate for this? Where is the idle adjust screw? I'm hesitant to do this as I've experienced a nightmare before when i did this on a Honda I owned. Then the ECU went crazy and made my hunting problem worse. I need a service soon so perhaps should get the professionals to do it. Can it be done via the ECU through VAGCOM?

Not cleaned the MAF as I can't find anything on the forums related to where it is. I presume it stands for 'Mass Airflow' sensor or something to that effect? Where is it? What does it do? How does it work? As mentioned before she SEEMS to run fine with the ISV unplugged once warmed up. It hunts a little for the first few minutes when cold - but this makes sense as the ISV is a form of auto-choke, limiting air intake and keeping fuel levels higher in the mixture when cold, right? Is this a bad idea to be driving around with it unplugged? Thanks

Okay, so I removed my ISV and cleaned it. It looked pretty dirty. The damper pot still has some foam left in it. I decided to leave that in there instead of trying to break it up and get it out. Once all back together I started her up and got a bit of a splutter which i put down to the carb cleaner and/or WD40 working its way through the system. That sorted itself out after 5 mins and I took her out......stalled. It was also hunting slightly more than I noticed before hand and now (call me paranoid) but I can hear my fuel pump whirring away in the boot, something I've never noticed before. It's not a one off as it's stalled another 3 times since. So today I unplugged the ISV and guess what? It's fine, in fact more than fine - she feels great. I've only had the car about 2 months but used to think the base idle was slightly too low - it never hunted, but often felt like it was too low while sitting in traffic or at lights. The car would sometimes shudder just ever so slightly every few seconds. Since I unplugged it it is idling about 100 or 150 rpm higher and as a result feels more confident at idle and on initial pull away. I can still hear the fuel pump whirring away though. Can anyone suggest that is going on here? Is my ISV just a knacker job? It seems like it was sticking in the open position (and too much air was getting in) but as it's a spring loaded unit I doubt that. Is it safe to drive around with my ISV unplugged? will it impact my fuel economy? why is my fuel pump whirring so loudly?

Has it worke? I'm procrastinating on doing this but if you say it works I'll get my dad to do this on fathers day....it'll keep him happy.

Mine VR6 has just started doing this. I'm pondering whether to get it fully serviced and get the fuel filter changed as I reckon it's still the original judging from the service history. Is getting the ISV out and cleaning it a simple job? Probably worth doing that too.....

I need my VR6 servicing. The history is nice and stamped with VW franchises - do you think I should stick to them and go to ColeBrook and Burgess in order to keep up the service book? or can Pit Stop Motor Engineering, Pottery Lane Forth Banks, do it any cheaper and give me a nice 'official' looking stamp in the book? It needs a full on service; plugs and oil filters but also possibly fuel filter...my only saving grace is that it's just passed and MOT so they can't pull a swift one on me and find something that needs fixing immediately. How much will this cost me from a stealer?

I'm having something similar...but mine seems related to hills and not right handers. It sometimes will stall right after turning it on from cold, then start up again and run fine. However, it's also started from cold then simply died on a hill (one time facing downhill, one time facing up hill) I've found this: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2660&p=23682&hilit=+fuel+starvation#p23682 and this: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19977&p=209377&hilit=+fuel+starvation#p209377 I will try both, but if anyone has any hill-specific advice I'd appreciate it

First link isn't working mate.......

Hi, I'm having the same problem whereby all my presets are lost when i turn the ignition off. Also i have no signal to my front speakers, only rear. Do i simply need to swop the memory wire from an ignition live to be connected to a perminant live? Will something like this help: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PC2-18-4-Harness- ... otohosting

Has anyone bought a grille badge from this link above? Are they bona fide Corrado fit's? Thanks