TrentSC

When you spoke to Andy, did he mention anything about giving back the money he took in advance for the looms? I tried PM'ing him on March 1st, but he hasn't picked up the message yet and I don't have an alternative means of contact.

Has anyone spoken to Andy recently? Things seem to have gone a little quiet...

Thanks, but it needs some work. I'd appreciate some input from a technical perspective, especially on the MAF sensor...

OK, here's the first pass. I'm very happy for input, corrections, amendments and additions, especially to the terminology! Problem You get into your shiny Corrado, fire up the engine, drop it into first and. As you pull off, the power drops off significantly before either picking up again or stalling. The symptoms have been variously described as stuttering or kangarooing. Background The Corrado

Not heard anything from Andy since he PM'd me.... Any of the "chosen few" seen theirs yet? My PM from Andy said he'd be sending them out this week...

Yep, I will be up for that... I'll combine the installation instructions with the build instructions & post it here. That is a possibility - Who would be up for this? Groups of 5 or 10 would be ideal...? Cheers, Andy.[/quote:3wyw53ou] Hi Andy, Count me in for one of the groups of 5-10. Given the excellent feedback in the past, I'm willing to front up some dosh on this. PM me if you want to let me know the details of where I send it.

To be honest, given the level of demand, I'm not surprised you simply haven't had time to keep it going. I'd agree that what would be brilliant would be a really thorough, step by step, idiot-friendly, illustrated guide to making your own loom with suggested components and sources and some notes on the best practice when it comes to construction, tools needed etc. I made up my own loom with splashproof fuse holders, OE plugs, uprated wiring and all soldered and heat-shrunk joints, so I know it's quite feasible. Alternatively, if you know a company that might be able to make looms up on a commercial basis, maybe that's worth looking at. It might be more expensive, but I suspect a lot of people would be prepared to shell out a little more for a really well-made loom. I have a lot of sympathy for Andy - for whatever reason he's found himself unable to move forwards and the continuing posts and PMs, however well-meant, can often add to the pressure. I know a lot of people who, under the same circumstances, would bury their head in the sand rather than "coming clean". I don't know the guy, so have no axe to grind, but if he's refunded everyone, let's draw a line under it and move forwards. Andy's put a lot of work into designing and testing a solution, and we should acknowledge that. Going forward, if he has a good design and has spec'd out the parts, how about us getting together and hiring someone to build a batch for us? I would imagine that through this forum (and others), we could get together 50 orders, and at those volumes it would bring down the costs of the components, giving someone the opportunity to make a fair and reasonable profit. If someone suitably qualified and trustworthy was recommended by a well-regarded forum member, I'd be willing to consider bunging something into the pot...

Cool - sounds like we have a title. Now, all we need to do is to start filling it... I'll get started with completing that list of possible causes.

Agreed on the pics - they always illuminate a point very well. It's not just vacuum leaks, though. I've spoken to several people who experienced similar problems and found the causes elsewhere. They include the rotor arm, HT leads, plugs, fuel filter, lamda probe, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator... That's one of the reasons why i think a KB piece on this would be useful - go through each item one by one, talk about minor differences in symptoms, ease & cost of repair, that sort of stuff.

OK, let's give it a go. Right, so who has experience of this problem, and what did you do to try and fix it? What worked, what didn't, what drove your decisions about what order to try things? All experiences are very welcome, even if you haven't fixed it yet! Post here, or PM me and I'll add your own experience to the mix.

It's taken me a while, but my mildly problematic 2.0 16v kangaroo problem appears now to have been sorted. Having tried out a number of different possible issues, it boiled down to a split in the intake air duct which, when replaced, solved the problem completely. Having done a lot of searching on this board, it seems that this is not the rarest of problems and that there's a large number of possible solutions. I was wondering whether it would be useful to pool the information from the myriad of threads on the subject to create a piece for the knowledgebase which gives a walkthrough of possible causes and solutions? I'd be happy to act as a central point of information, contributing my own experiences and working with others far more skilled than me. Searching an otherwise excellent forum such as this can be problematic and fruitless if one isn't certain what to search for, and it seems to this fairly new arrival on this board that the knowledgebase is underused, and this could be a useful resource for people like me who are newly arrived in the Corrado community. What's the general view? If there's a positive response, I'm happy to start work on it. And if someone's already started, I'm happy to add my 2p... Cheers!

If it's relevant, I'd buy one. I'm a complete non-techie, so a plug & play option is my best bet for improving visibility. I'd happily buy one of Andy's if the general consensus of the group is that they're worth waiting for, but I do need to do something, so waiting for another few months isn't really an option. Since other posters have advised to avoid eBay options, I'm rather stuck for options, unless someone can recommend a particular maker/supplier... Cheers.

That's definitely worth checking out, thanks. My only concern is that if there's rotten metal around the join, taking a spanner to it to explore might make it even worse, but I might drop into one of the exhaust centres and get them to have a look.

The leak appears to be around the join between the cat and the front exhaust section. The exhaust guy seemed to think the join was rotten and as I've said, they don't sell or fit this part, so I tend to believe him (he has no axe to grind, after all). The cat was fitted a year or so ago and looks in good nick, so I'm guessing that the front section is probably original, and so is probably the culprit.

[1992 2.0l 16valve 9A] The join between the downpipe and the cat seems to have rotted (it looks as though it was poorly fitted 1+ years ago) and it's leaking exhaust fumes. Not much, but the local exhaust centre reckons it's a problem which needs fitting. I'm tending towards trusting their judgement because they don't have the parts and are willing to fit what I can source at cost, so they're not going to make much money out of me. The problem I have is that nobody seems to stock the downpipe. VAG has one in stock for £350 including gaskets and that seems to be about it. GSF and ECP both don't list it as stock items and both choked when I quoted them VAG's price so I'm hoping I might be able to source an alternative. The excellent and, if you'll pardon the pun, exhaustive exhaust thread suggests a number of good suppliers, but these all seem to be 'cat-back' systems, and I need a 'cat-forward' one, which is why I'm posing separately. Can anyone suggest who I might be able to try? Ta muchly.

WTF? :shock: The VAG manual for the KR ignition system does not say why it needs to be glued on but it does say to use AMV 185 100.01. Looking on ETKA this looks like is has been superseeded by AMV 185 101 A1, comes in a 10ml something so it is probably super glueish type substance. My guess on the why is that the rotor arm is not held in place by gravity, the contact on the inside of the cap does stop it coming completely off but this may, if the rotor move, accelerate wear on the contact in the cap. Ultimately if the book says do it, it must do so for a good reason, and how often do you change a rotor arm anyway? Thanks for the heads-up on the glue. I'm slowly working my way through a list of possible solutions to the kangaroo problem. Tried Redex and cleaned out the ISV with carb cleaner, so the rotor arm is next, followed by replacement HT leads. My plan is to have a go at all the possible cheap things first (!), gradually working my way up the list until something changes. It's a real PITA - the car appears to lose power as I let the clutch out in first. Took it into the local clutch repair centre and they were pretty certain it wasn't a clutch issue so told me not to spend money on them!

Thanks for the reassurance - I'll take my industrial-sized screwdriver to it in the morning.

Please accept my apologies for this really dumb question, but just how difficult should it be to remove a rotor arm from my 92 2.0 16 valver? Mine seems to be stuck fast, and I don't want to apply too much force before I check with the wise heads here... Ta muchly!

Ah. I'll take that as a "no" then! Ta muchly.

Will a VR6 ECU work happily in a 16valve 2 litre jobbie? Apologies if this is one of those idiot questions, but if it is, it won't be my first! Cheers.

I managed to find the details of the immobiliser: it turns out that the company is still in business and based a few miles down the road from me. So, I was able to go and get a replacement key fob, and I'm now a much happier bunny. The system is made up of three components - the control box (black and about the size of a fag packet) which is buried somewhere behind the dash or under the bonnet, the dashboard panel and the key fob. Each can be bought separately or together, and old key fobs can be replaced by reprogrammed new ones. If anyone has the same one, the company is called "The Immobiliser" and is based in Borehamwood. You can call them on 020 8953 9803.

I took it to two alarm specialists, one of whom scratched his head and passed, but the other said it could be a "Compact 2" immobiliser from a company called "The Immobiliser", but I've been unable to find any trace of them online.

This is an immobiliser that's fitted to my newly acquired 2.0l 16v 1992 Corrado. I only have the one key fob, and it's something of a hit-and-miss affair to get the thing to work properly - the contacts are clean, but getting the little red flashing light to turn off can take anything between 2 seconds and 5 minutes! The key fob is a bit tatty, so I'm wondering whether I can source a replacement... Any suggestions gratefully accepted!

Ta muchly! I shall dab with appropriate care.

I finally managed to close the sunroof with the headlining in situ, but the lower panel remains out of place, so I'm going to have to deal with that before too long. I have also found that as the sunroof motor doesn't "know" where the roof is positioned: it needs to be told that it's closed before you put it back, otherwise you'll hit the same problem as I described earlier. The easiest way of doing this is to close the sunroof, take the motor off its mount and, keeping it plugged it, lock the door so the windows close. The motor will whirr away for a moment, at which point it will think it's in the closed position and you can remount it. As an aside, if there isn't a definitive/sticky thread on the subject, I would be happy to contribute to one (especially the "what NOT to do" section!). In the meantime, could I nudge the other question about a Passat moonroof? My thinking is that this is a good option to pursue, unless there's advice to the contrary. It seems to me that even the official repair kit can be fraught with problems. Ta muchly.