Bruno

Had the kit rerouted through Holland. Just arrived. Will add photos in the next few days....

Yes please. Mind if I post here? I'll also update progress on the use of that strange tool I bought on Ebay to help install new bushes on the rear beam.

My worries were (i) getting access to the engine mount bolts under the servo (ii) whether those steering rack screws might be a problem (iii) centering the rack. Have already removed the ball joints for the rack to the hub carrier and wishbones. Thoughts?

I hope this isnt too far of a deviation on this thread. I have my car on axle stands and have been tidying up the rear suspension and rear beam. Will probably move to the front in the next four weeks. So here's the question:

Has anybody managed to find a manageable way to remove the engine (rear) subframe - the one with the wishbones and ARB, and which cradles the steering rack. - from below? I thought to undo the engine and gearbox mounts; support the engine, somehow loosen the subframe from the body, then see if it is possible to remove the clamps holding the steering rack, and drop the subframe with its wishbones as a complete assembly.

The intention is to tidy up the subframe, the wishbones and refit.

Is this a crazy mad idea, or is it workable? If it is workable, any suggestions would be welcomed.

This may be somewhat off topic. I'm in the process of stripping down the front suspension - and came across a glitch. Now its been a long time since I've done this but I've come across something I wasnt expecting - the hub carriers seem to be stuck on the driveshaft. I've removed the hub nuts, separated the ball joints, removed connections to the ARB, dropped the calipers, disconnected everything that should be - then tapped the hub carriers lightly with a hammer to shock them free. They don't seem to want to budge.

Has anybody experienced this before? I could swear that I've handled this successfully on the other family VR6 - and I've handled all the work on this car since new - just never taken off the hub carriers on this car before. I was sure these were meant to drop off the driveshaft easily- and I dont really want to thump the carriers.

Is this something a hub puller should solve? Heat? Something else? Experience please....Many thanks.

I fitted mine with PTFE tape too.

Here you go. 

heat insulation for floor - Corrado(COR) [EUROPA 1989 year] (7zap.com) Part No is 536803312A. I go to 7zap quite a bit nowadays.

The part you seek folds over the pipes and the one you have. Ignore the fact that it claims to be specific to cars with airbags. It really does cool off the brake and clutch lines and it seems it can still be found. Here are some pictures from a retailer. Heat protective panel cover for Corrado VR6 536 803 312 A 536803312A vw_classic_parts - Mecatechnic.com

What did you do to that radiator support? Is it just covered, or is that a carbon moulded section?

This thread may address your question: What's the differences between Golf and Corrado cams? | Club GTI - I see it has already been mentioned.

I have owned and driven Corrados: conversions with AAA engines installed, owned two with original ABV engines with and without dizzies. ABV engines- they behave differently they are more lumpy and the torque curve is quite different. Although the pistons are different, the ABV engine has a different dwell angle on its cams - really obvious when moving from the AAA engine to the ABV. I suspect most of that torque difference and high end behaviour is the cams, not just the maps.

The bottom half of the ABV block has a thicker bearing carrier. I was surprised to find that.

I've ordered the thing to be posted to the Netherlands, then forwarded to me in Blighty. Will let you guys know when it arrives.

1 hour ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

t should be the same or easier than ordering item from America, Australia, China etc. 
Have to pick it up and pay Vat import duty at worst. 
Did you notice it was £500 delivery

Yep doesnt make sense. If I reassign its destination to the Netherlands - it charges £10. Then if I reassign it again to the UK, with my postcode, its £10 again! But when I hit BUY, it charges me £500. Wierd. Phoning Ebay for their take on it.

Saw this on Ebay last week and contacted the guy. REAR AXLE BUSH REMOVAL INSTALLER TOOL VW GOLF III MK3 PASSAT 35i VENTO PULLER | eBay. He confirmed that it definately works but since the 31 Dec 2020, he cannot send anything to the UK without having a counterpart importer. Still trying to work out what that means. The product does look strong enough.

Does anybody watching this understand what went south regarding importing from the EU? PM me please.

Very useful -  will get some OEM bushes.  Still trying to find the right tool - nobody seems to rent the VAG 3111 set. The wiki seems adamant that that's what one uses.  Did you find any fleabay or Heath Robinson solution? 

FYI. Did look at powder coating. Decided on hand painting with epoxy high build primer, then 2K black final coat sprayed. Need something that is stronger in handling damage from my unmade road. Too much gravel.

May I return to this question again - but for different reasons?

Took off my rear beam to replace the rear brake lines and regulator - but in the process realised the beam needed a good cleanup. Now the bushes are original - the car has done about 150K miles, so some questions - you will no doubt have guessed where I am going:

1. As the darn thing is off, is it best to stick a clothes peg on my nose, burn the old bushes, fit new ones?

2. Would you use poly bushes, or OEM bushes? I ask because - they dont seem to be around now - IIRC there were comments about polybushes being harsher and more noisy than OEM ones. However it seems that fitting polybushes could be a tad easier.

I dont want to race my car. I like it a a cruiser.

Ha! This will be interesting.

Sorry. Have been on long hospital shifts. This morning I measured the Hella we've got. It is 34mm exactly. The joints are soldered.

Looking at this thread, it seems that there are two Hella stamped rads, one of copper, the other in aluminium. The former is soldered, the latter in fold- pressed. Both have the same end caps.

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Hi..I wish. Unfortunately I don't have the driveway space for a vehicle to break up. You are right, having a car to scavenge is worth so much more than one initially expects. Just don't have the space to keep a car whilst it is being broken up.

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Planning on completing a OBD2 update to my 1994 VR6. If you, or know somebody, with most - or all - of the bits needed to complete the conversion to OBD2, please let me know.

I get the fact that this forum is scanned regularly by scammers who believe that there is a market for a second hand servo a $500 and ECU for £600. Please note - I'm not stupid  - but would appreciate access to the parts.

Thank you.

Does anybody know if our ECUs can handle pre and post cat lambda probes? What does one have to do to enable that?

YES PLEASE! I've scanned about and found this part number - 021906256AK- but it needs confirming. 

Interesting that ours only uses one lambda sensor. On Saabs, which have pre-and post-cat sensors, the early one is used for short term trim, the second one is used for long term trim. They contribute to different parts of the maps.  

Had a gander under the car and from what I can see the original lambda probe seems to be just after the flange, but before the cat actually starts on my existing OBD1 setup. Looking at the B4/MK3 cat - which seems to be part no 1H0131701TX - it has two lambda take off points, one before, one after the cat.  I presume that I must thus create a post cat position for that new probe and blank off the  original sensor point.  

I've got two looms ready to make up into one,  off the car. My first question is based on Dennis' old Canadian notes where he stated that the OBD2 system needed a second lambda probe, finishing with one before the cat, and one after it. Does that not mean that one needs to drill, tap and weld on a socket for the second lambda probe? Cant seem to find the original Canada guide online now. The vwvortex one is definately not clear.

As it says.. mine is blistering and although it's innards are in great nick I'm looking for one to bolt straight on and not have to spend ages rubbing down,  painting...

On 12/16/2020 at 11:18 AM, Keyo said:

I was thinking that pretty sure you could mod it - maybe all air on rads came in copper as well for extra cooling ? 

The SLC ones were all alluminium. They really had problems with those.

Brilliant.  Thank you

Currently planning to work through Xmas by replacing all the lines and having them ready for the swap of pump, ecu and wiring. So for now my intent is to replace all the existing lines- which seem to be jammed solid. May I clarify again?

• It seems that all the hard brake lines are 3/16" are the same size in the TEVES 02/04 and TEVES 20 systems. However some of the fittings for the TEVES 20 system are 12mm, some 10mm, but those are just the fittings right? The lines seem to be 3/16" everywhere. Please confirm,
• In taking off the rear beam the hard brake fittings seem to be 10mm there - does one obtain 10mm x 1 fittings

The rear seems interesting. I have two hard brake lines going to the back, not one - but that could be because my car has a the EDL system incorporated. No Y adaptors seem to be in place where the old proportioning valve is located. So what I thought to do is fit slightly longer hard pipes on the rear beam, the valve, with the aim - when the TEVES 20 system is fitted - to bridge over the proportioning valve, with the extra length - and simple use female to female connectors to form the bridge. I hope this image makes sense.

The main issue for me is, do any of you guys remember which fittings were 10mm, which were 12mm. I see the picture earlier in this thread identifying a couple of 12mm fittings at the pump - but did you see them elsewhere? Just working out what to buy.

Odd. Just had a gander at the one we have. No additional ports for autobox cooling. Same part number. Dont understand why autodoc gave it that profile. But do let me know how you get on with yours.