lesarcsneil

That looks like it'll work for the oil pressure on the gauge panel. From memory I tried to use the second output from one of these to the oil warning light on the dashboard and got a low pressure warning and loud beeeeeeep sound.I used a T-piece to retain the original sensor for the dashboard oil pressure. Neil

I've done an engine rebuild on a 9A 16v. The cost of the bottom end rebuild wasn't crazy (around £500) it was the cost of all the other things that I hadn't factored in that really added up. If you are on the original clutch then you'd be crazy to not put one on at this point. All the engine mounts will need replacing if they haven't been done. Do you need to get the cylinder head refurbished at the same time? Probably The original coolant hoses probably won't seal again. Check that your subframe is in good condition. Non-genuine rear main oil seals don't seal. Geninue one's are v.expensive. I ended up spending quite a bit more than I first budgeted. In hindsight a low mile ABF would have been a much cheaper replacement if you aren't too concerned about originality. Neil

VW Classic Part in Germany sell them (they aren't cheap!). You can order via VW Heritage but get a quote from them first as it may be cheaper to buy direct. Neil

The faces were originally diamond cut with contrasting darker grey paint in the scalloped sections. They corroded like mad as water tended to get under the lacquer. Mine were pretty well gone when I first got the car and it was 7 years old. They were standard fit on 2.0 16v cars from 92 to 94. I got mine refurbished in normal paint and they lasted pretty well. I've now got some different wheels on the car but have kept hold of my set just in case. Neil

I've remembered that exhaust studs are 12mm which is an odd size. You get into the habit of using 13mm as it's very common.

Graphite has this spot on. Head gasket isn't a huge amount of labour on a 16v and your mechanic mate should be able to help you out. Torque settings are all in the Passat Haynes manual (covers the 9A engine): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-VW-Passat-service-and-repair-manual-May-1988-to-1996-petrol-and-diesel/332400409470 There is plenty of information over on ClubGti about how to set up timing after you've refitted everything. Make sure you turn the engine over using a socket on the crank pulley after reassembly to ensure that the valves don't clash with the cylinders. I'd spend the time with your mate whilst he does this, it's a good learning experience :-)

From memory the nut that holds the oil cooler on is in the region of 24mm (but could be as big as 28mm). If you measure up and get the correct sized deep socket it makes the job a lot easier, especially getting the correct torque on reassembly. An oil change on a 2.0 16v is normally 4 litres, I'd imagine a 1.8 is similar. Neil

Dave Crissel is the owner of 'AllStage cylinder heads' and does the work. A bit of googling takes you here: https://www.britaine.co.uk/allstage-F1506C6061C Regards, Neil

I'd recommend POR15, make sure you use their 'metal ready' stuff before painting. It's also good as a tattoo substitute if you get it on your skin so wear gloves and long sleeves. 16v subframes tend to rot from the inside due to their design. I ended up buying a new one from VW Classic Parts. Neil

Having rebuilt a 9A a couple of years ago, it wasn't exactly cheap. It's not the cost of the bottom end rebuild, but all the other little things that really add up. You'd be mad not to replace the clutch, and you really need a new oil pump in a rebuilt engine. When I got it back together I simply couldn't get the 20 year old water hoses to seal so ended up getting a set of Samco hoses. Once it was holding coolant it started to leak oil from the new (pattern) rear main oil seal. Genuine ones used to be 80 pounds but by the time I got the engine back out they'd magically become 130 pounds. I can share the google spreadsheet that I've got of the rebuild cost if you want the details. In hindsight I'd find an ABF from a reputable source and swap it in. They're known to produce more than the standard figures and aren't too difficult to fit.

I just posted this link on another thread: http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?238928-MK3-top-mount-part-numbers-pics-for-MK2 I used these parts to convert a late 16v to use genuine VR6 top mounts when replacing the suspension earlier this year. Genuine 16v top mounts were impossible to find and pattern parts do this weird thing where the metal inner is pushed up through the mount by the weight of the car as if they weren't designed for the weight of the Corrado. It didn't look right to me (I tried 2 brands of mounts, both did the same) before going down the VR6 route.

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?238928-MK3-top-mount-part-numbers-pics-for-MK2 I used this information to order parts to put VR6 top mounts on my 16v with H&R springs. The part numbers match up with your 'B' choice. Neil

I thought I'd post this as valuable information if anyone else is in the same situation. You can run a 16v on VR6 top mounts, I found the information over on ClubGti including the required part numbers. http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?238928-MK3-top-mount-part-numbers-pics-for-MK2 It sits a little higher at the front than on 16v top mounts, but worth the peace of mind for running genuine parts. Goes round corners rather well now (Koni shocks, H&R springs). It's noticeably better than when running the 12+ year old Konis and H&Rs. Neil

I'm having trouble with 16v top mounts whilst replacing the Koni top adjustables and H&R springs on my car with new parts. It's a 94 2.0 16v with a 9A engine. With Febi top mounts fitted, the lower metal part of the top mount pushes through the rubber part and when on the ground it looks like the pictures of all the worn out top mounts on this thread. The top spring plate sits about 15mm above the turret which looks wrong to me. The spring plate was always flush with the turret when using genuine top mounts. The original top mounts have the part number 357 412 331 (note the lack of A). After some serious googling there appears to be a single one of these on German Ebay, but no other genuine ones around. VR6 top mounts are 357 412 331A and genuine ones are still available. Has anyone tried fitting VR6 top mounts and spring plates to a 16v? Are the dimensions of VR6 and 16v springs the same or should I try the vwheritage top mounts to see if they are any better? Don't you just love these cars? Cheers, Neil

My original radiator started to leak, but only when warming up. Cold - no leaks, hot - no leaks. Only discovered this when working on another problem in a cold garage and steam started to come off the radiator. Cold weather has it's uses sometimes :-) Neil