lesarcsneil

I managed to get hold of a new throttle body with 'potentiometer' from someone breaking a car. Bottom to middle pin controls the idle valve, measures around 2Ohm with the throttle closed, infinity with the throttle open. Bottom to top pin controls full throttle enrichment, measures around 2Ohm with the throttle wide open, infinity with any other throttle position. So the 'potentiometer' isn't, although it looks like one. It's simply 2 switches. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v, running better now

I've had a quick look at EKTA, for later cars, chassis numbers F-50-N-013 000 and greater I need part number 048 133 154 'potentiometer' which retails at £107, I asked for one of these in the dealers a few weeks back and was quoted 'they're on back order' so they couldn't get me one anyway. The earlier part containing the two switches has part number 051 133 093 A and looks to have a retail price around £50. If someone can measure the resistances of a working potentiometer then I know what I'm looking for when I buy another second hand one. Cheers, Neil S 94 Flash Red 16v

Hi, I have an intermittent stalling problem on my 2.0 16v and the likely suspect is the idle switch/throttle potentiometer on the throttle housing (the part containing the butterflies that you open with the accelerator cable). I've measured the resistances as follows: bottom to middle pin in idle: 60MOhm (that's right millions of Ohm not Ohms, this varies wildly every time you return the throttle back to idle) bottom to middle pin with throttle open: infinity bottom to top pin in idle: infinity bottom to top pin with throttle open: infinity I bought this on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160359570273 There is a difference between this and the one already on the car, the ebay item has two switches on top, one for idle (bottom to middle pin on connector) and one for full throttle (bottom to top pin on connector). Both of these switches work correctly. The one on the car has a single microswitch for idle and what looks like a potentiometer contained as a single assembly underneath the throttle body. The part numbers are: On car 051 063 AA (stamped on the throttle body) Ebay 051 063 F (stamped on the throttle body) I think that EKTA lists these as 051 133 063 K and AA respectively. Can anyone tell me or measure the resistances that a working idle switch/throttle pot should have between the connector contacts. I'd assume that bottom->middle should be infinity with throttle open and zero at idle. I'd also assume that bottom->top would be variable resistance depending on throttle position? I am reluctant to put the Ebay item on the car, not knowing what effect running with a full throttle microswitch will have on the ECU instead of a throttle position pot. It's also in a shocking state so would take a few hours cleaning before I'd even consider using it. The throttle pot assembly is silly money at the stealers and no longer available according to the local outfit. Cheers, Neil 94 2.0 16v

I was looking for some replacement wiper blades for my Lupo Gti arms today and happened across these: http://www.wiperblades.co.uk/product-de ... on=5&ID=34 Bosch aero blades that fit on the standard corrado arms. All the benefits of the Lupo set-up at a fraction of the cost. Now I wonder if they fit... Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

Wrong, wrong wrong wrong wrong 1HO 959 139B is a 4 pin fan switch back to the dealers this lunchtime.... they're only out by one pin. Neil

Thanks davidwort, I'd been wondering why my 16v temps had been going up to 110C before the fan started on full speed as it used to stay lower and I hardly ever heard the fan in full speed operation. A quick visit to VW and 321 959 481 D is obsolete, the current part number for a 9A 16v is: 1H0 959 139 B, the price as usual was faintly ridiculous but that's what you go to the dealers for! Cheers, Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

The 9A 2.0 16v engine has a sensor on HT lead no.4, I don't know if the KR 1.8 16v has the same set-up as the 2.0. It actually slides onto the HT lead, when you get a brand new set of HT leads you have to pull one of the connectors off the end to fit the sensor onto the wire. It plugs into a connector near the Idle Stabilisation Valve which I assume sends a signal back to the ECU. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I had exactly the same problem with my 9A 16v. changed, battery, ht leads, main fuel pump (it was knackered and the engine was stalling due to fuel starvation, but that was another problem). It turned out to be the inductive sensor on HT lead number 4. This had slid down to the distributor end of the lead and was picking up signals from the dizzy -> coil HT lead. The ECU must have been picking up these signals and this was causing the misfire every now and again. I moved the sensor away from the dizzy and secured it with some tape (although a cable tie would do the same job). No problems since doing this Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I bought the set from Lora_G60 on the forum, we did a complete interior swap so he got my old, mint cloth interior. They went for £460 on ebay, then the buyer didn't collect. I did the deal at £400 with my interior. They have a cigarette burn in one of the rear seats and the drivers side seat bolster has been repaired, but needs a repair by a trimmer to be perfect. That puts the value of a mint condition interior at around £500, but you've got to take into account that there aren't too many people after cloth Recaros at that price when leather interiors go for around the 600-800 mark depending on condition. They are worth every penny and are considerably more supportive than the normal seats. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

From memory these gauges have 4 connectors on the back, all labelled in German: 1) Earth 2) Volts (for the voltmeter) 3) Oil pressure - attach to the oil pressure sender 4) Illumination 1) and 3) are fairly obvious, you will have to route a wire into the engine bay for the oil pressure sender. I connected 2) to the switched live on the glove box illumination supply (before the switch, check that it turns on/off with the ignition key and not when you close the glove box lid) and 4) to the illumination supply to the cigarette lighter. Connecting 2) to the switched live on the glove box illumination has the effect of the volt gauge turning on when you turn the ignition key. I have seen 2) wired to the battery positive terminal which will give a more accurate reading but the voltmeter will be permanently on. I have seen a few cars wired this way, a good voltmeter will only draw a tiny current when not in use, way less than an alarm so current draw isn't really an issue. Neil S 94 Flash Red 16v

I had a nightmare at the VW dealers when they replaced the alternator I bought there under warranty... It took 3 days for them to a) Work out the alternator was broken and order the new part b) get the new alternator in (ok another day, fair do's but they could have pre-ordered the alternator as I had booked the car in in advance) c) realise the new alternator had a different thread size on the spindle d) look around for a bolt to fit on the spindle (another day or so) e) finally steal a bolt from the Ford alternator the AA man had bodged on and not tell me (no complaints, it got me to Brands and back home again). No loan car, no nothing. And they wonder why I don't go there for servicing? I use a specialist in Manchester for servicing (350 mile round trip from Cambridge, my folks live there so I make a weekend of it) and am more than happy with this arrangement. It works out cheaper including fuel than a dealer service. I have to book about a month in advance as he's a busy man. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

Hi, I have these installed in my 2.0 16v, they're easier to install on the valver than the VR as there is a bit more room in the engine bay to get to the oil pressure sender. A friend of mine who worked for VW/Audi at the time sourced the parts for me and got me an oil pressure sender and a T-piece which fits neatly on the top of the oil filter housing with the existing oil pressure sender. An alternative is to use a dual pole oil pressure sender from merlin motorsport. I can post pictures/details of the install if required. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I have a completely standard 2.0 16v and get the following sort of MPG figures: 13 mile commute to work @ 70mph, not much stop/start 32mpg winter 36mpg summer Long motorway run @ 80mph 33mpg. Long motoway run @70mph driving gently 38-42mpg. Cross country hoonage 28-30mpg. My 2.0 16v seems to like optimax/V-Power which can give you a couple more mpg. I generally drive with a view to increasing fuel economy, lifting off and using engine braking for roundabouts/traffic lights etc. I suppose it depends what you are after out of a car. A 16v with Koni/H&R suspension handles amazingly well and is certainly quick enough in the real world. It's only as quick as the missus' mk4 TDi 130 in a straight line though. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

Still with le mans stickers :-) Nice touch. Congratulations on the new addition to the family. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v 02 Golf TDi (07 le mans vehicle) 78 MG Midget with 'hokey cokey' engine and gearbox

I Got stuck on the A14 the other week as a passenger in a colleagues SEAT. By the time we'd found a laybyto stop in (about a mile) the tyre was beyond repair. The foam/compressor in the boot was no use, it took a good hour or so before we got recovered to a local tyre fitter. He's getting a spare wheel now, I'm thinking of changing my spacesaver to a full sized spare. The boot in a corrado isn't *that* small is it? neil

1001PS isn't enough some days: http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/news/default.asp?storyId=16548 in car footage here: http://www.roadandtrack.com/video/ james may might have struggled a bit keeping it on the straight and narrow, wheelspin at 140mph :shock: neil

Vindis in Cambridge had 2 blue mk4 R32's in on Monday when I was there. They wanted top dollar for them £16.5k if I remember correctly but they looked pretty tidy from a quick glance. Worth a phone call and it's not too far from leicestershire to come and have a look. They'd obviously been traded in against mk5 R32s as there were a couple of pre-delivery cars there at the time.

I have a 2.0 16v that has been lowered about 30mm on Konis/H&Rs. I have always liked the look of a standard/OEM+ car. Lupo wipers and a headlight loom are invaluable in deepest darkest cambridgeshire. I've also fitted a gauge pod as it finished off the dashboard nicely. The estorils are a pain to be honest, I got them refurbed by pristine 4 years ago and they're starting go corrode again. I'd love a set of new old stock wheels that have been sitting around in a warehouse for the past 12 years. neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I've recently been through the pain of an alternator swap on a 2.0 16v. This has required *numerous* trips to the stealers for the reasons that will follow: Old 65 amp alternator VW part number : 027 903 015 Now you’d think that a 027 903 015X (exchange) would be *identical* to a 027 903 015, and they are apart from one minor detail. The thread size on the pulley spindles is different. If you look on ekta, the 027 903 015 is listed for the Corrado but on the exploded diagram the nut on the spindle (item 12) does not have a part number. After a quick call to MK headquarters the nut is on the mk2 Jetta parts list N 0102 187 04 in case you are interested. I'm now an expert at alternator changes and can do one in less than 30 minutes (in the car park at work concentrates the mind). You will need a 24mm socket to get the old pulley nut off, but only a 22m socket to get the new (smaller) nut on. neil 94 Flash Red 16v

You could use either but the lengths of wires on a loom normally mean you'd use the nearside (on the same side as the battery). Also worth doing a search on 'headlight loom' on the forum to find out how to disable the dim-dip. I fitted a loom yesterday and it's made a huge difference. neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I've just had the same work done to my valver, the £25 a side VAG replacements *didn't* have the corrado script but I can live without that. Once you've got the work done, look at the door protection film that halfords sell, ventureshield is the trade name for this. I've put this on mine on the exposed strip of bodywork that the sill protector does not cover. neil 94 flash red 16v

I took those photos in the car park at Edition 38 the other week and put them up. I'm surprised that no-one else noticed the storm badges on a white G plater. The interior was rather nice too Thought that it was of interest to people - It made me soooo mad. Mind you the 'ironside' vw golf made me smile. neil 94 Flash Red 16v

The light in the glovebox has a 12v live, switched with the ignition. It's not too difficult to run cable across to the centre dials. neil 94 Flash Red 16v

You can get another 10 bar oil pressure sender from VW. This is what I've done with the same gauges and requires a 'T-piece' so that you can use the existing sender and the new sender. You need :- N0138115 qty 2 seals 19p 035 103 715 qty 1 banto bolt 14.96 035 103 717 qty 1 banto union 13.03 These items are listed on the vr6 switches illustrations but not shown nor listed for 16v the other alternative is to use a dual pole sender, these are available from merlin motorsport http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ they're a fairly easy job to fit, I did the job in a morning, most of the time was spent getting the wiring spot on. neil 94 Flash Red 16v

There's a mint Classic Green Storm for sale in my neck of the wood, near cambridge. It's on the autotrader at the minute and is definately worth a trip up. I've seen it in the flesh and it's a minter. hth neil 94 Flash Red 16v going home to look down the back of the sofa for a spare £8k tonight