lesarcsneil

Hi, I'm after an exhaust manifold for a 2.0 16v, I'm in no rush for this and am local so can collect. Cheers, Neil

Hi, The part numbers are in this thread: http://the-corrado.net/archive/index.php?t-44134.html D&G http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/ Stealth http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ Cheers, Neil

Hi, Do you still have the exhaust manifold? I'd be interested if it's in good condition (they're prone to cracking). Cheers, Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

Hi, Dave Crissel 'the man in a shed' is well regarded for porting/polishing VW cylinder heads: http://www.sciroccoregisterforum.co.uk/carforum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=8593 ClubGTi may still have an ongoing group buy for members only. There is a lot of information about cylinder heads e.g. bolt undoing/tightening sequences on their forum. Bear in mind that if you go down this route you'll have to adjust the fuelling to compensate. I'd give one of the well known tuners Stealth D&G etc a call to see how much this is going to be. If you're still on the original injectors then they'd probably recommend replacement before setting up the fuelling. Injectors are around £50 each. Regards, Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

No worries, thanks for looking Neil

Hi, Do you still have the exhaust manifold from the 2.0 16v? Cheers, Neil

Here's a link to the pictures from Edition38 in 2004 including the (in)famous White Corrado Storm. https://picasaweb.google.com/109322610184191243521/Edition382004?authuser=0&feat=directlink Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I was the one who spotted the white corrado storm in the car park at Edition 38. Someone then found the pictures on fotopic and the thread started. 'Ultra Rare White Corrado storm' was a hint of irony that some people didn't originally get the gist of. GTI international at Bentwaters was a lasting memory. Wendy had booked a cottage for the weekend and Guy Hartley turned up in late Saturday night after a spirited drive back from Worthersee. You could hear his Golf R32 from miles away being driven like it was on a rally special stage. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

The plan is to do as few miles as possible in the car and try to make it through to March. I spent last winter in the garage and it wasn't much fun. Progress was a lot quicker in the spring. There is a spare car which I will get back on the road in case I really need it. Then it'll be an engine out job, at this point it's worth doing a bottom end rebuild as the car is now on 134k miles. There are plenty of other things to do whilst the engine is out, the clutch has seen better days and it needs a new exhaust manifold and radiator. I'm intrigued to find out why the 9A has a habit of wears out these bearings (from the link to ClubGti I'm not the only person who has experienced this). The car had a full main dealer service history for the first 8 years. I've been changing the oil between services, so it's been on 6 month oil changes ever since. The only odd thing we noticed when changing the oil seal was that there were a couple of pieces of 'foil' from an oil top-up bottle embedded in the oil seal. I've never used a top-up bottle, only the bigger 5 litre containers which don't have a seal so this may have been in there for a long time. Neil

The plot thickens... Mechanic replaced all 3 oil seals on Friday evening. New timing belt and aux belts on and everything is now back together and running ok. However he showed me that the intermediate shaft (drives oil pump) pulley had about 1mm of sideways movement. He thinks that the intermediate shaft bearing is worn, possibly by an over-tightened timing belt in the past. So the question is, is it possible to replace this bearing (on the timing belt side of the engine) with the engine still in the engine bay? He's got access to specialist tools from work and thinks that he can remove the bearing without too much trouble. He thinks that the oil-pump would have to be removed from the bottom of the engine and we'd have to take the sump off to help with access. Is the bearing press-fit or is there a special tool to fit it? Thanks, Neil

The original order had 2x 068 103 085E but they actually had a third seal in stock. They aren't cheap at the dealers but seeing as the originals lasted 18 years and 133k miles then you can't really argue. We didn't have any trouble getting the crankshaft and intermediate shaft pulleys off the other night but I'm more of a spectator as I've got a mechanic working on the car. I didn't have the confidence to do the timing belt but I'll get him to show me how it's done and take some pictures before he puts it all back together. It took 2 and a half hours to identify the source of the leak and strip it all down and I'm guessing that it'll take about the same to put it back together. It would have taken me considerably longer to do it on my own. Thanks very much for the information, I guess I owe you a pint the next time I'm up in the Lake District. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

A few days ago I put the car in the garage, then spotted a rather large puddle of oil on the drive. After having a look underneath it was leaking heavily in the vicinity of the timing belt. The car is now stripped down, all aux belts and the timing belt have been removed. We've identified the source of the oil leak as coming from the seal behind the middle pulley on the timing belt. Whilst the car is stripped down I think that it's a good idea to replace all 3 oil seals behind the pulleys on the timing belt. Cue a visit to the local dealer to order parts. Unfortunately I got a young lad who was probably younger than the car. After an hour of toing and froing (EKTA is now top secret) I think that I've managed to order the oil seals: 1) oil seal behind cam pulley 2) oil seal behind middle pulley (oil pump?) 3) oil seal behind crank pulley I've also ordered a new timing belt as it had been covered in oil. The tensioner is only 12 months old so isn't going to be replaced. Can someone kindly look up the part numbers for me on EKTA to confirm that I've got the correct ones? I foolishly left the invoice in my desk drawer at work today so won't be able to post what I've ordered until tomorrow. It's a 9A 2.0 16v engine. On a positive note the oil was only on the dipstick 'MIN' mark when I checked so it hasn't destroyed the engine. I feel very lucky that I'm not doing an engine swap.... Thanks in advance Neil

I'm the happy owner with the Red 16v, just down the road from you in Hilton. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

It isn't a throttle position sensor on the throttle body. The electrical connector has connections to 2 switches, the switch that you've mentioned controls the Idle Stabilisation Valve (ISV) and is working correctly. The other switch closes at full throttle to increase the fuelling. When I had a faulty switch the resistance measured with a multimeter wouldn't give a stable value, it was constantly varying. Is the car reporting poor MPG via the MFA on the dashboard or have you worked out the real MPG at the pump? The dashboard MPG is worked out based on vacuum pressure so it may be worth checking for vacuum leaks in the engine bay. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

Is the lifter pump in the fuel tank working? Have you checked that it's getting a live feed? It's easy to replace (unlike the pump under the car), access is through the circular access panel under the boot carpet. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

I have one and could not recommend it (2.0 16v): 1st visit: old system removed and mij system fitted. They used 2 silencer boxes and it was comically loud 2nd visit (1 week later): Additional silencer fitted, the drone only annoys me at 60mph in 5th. It also knocks on the rear beam if you go over a bump when accelerating hard. Prior to fitting I'd been using VW OEM exhausts and they fit perfectly and are completely silent, mainly due to the briefcase sized silencer under the car. I didn't have the heart to go back for a 3rd time considering it costs about £40 in fuel for each return trip from Cambridge. With hindsight I would have paid the extra for a Miltek but was short of cash and needed an exhaust for an MOT. It's also worth knowing that they weld the whole system together instead of using brackets so it is more difficult to make adjustments after fitting. Neil

It sounds like you have a 'valet' key and not the 'master' key. The valet key will open the drivers door and start the car, it won't open the boot or the glove-box. The expensive solution is to visit you local VW dealer where they should/might have a machine that will cut a master key based on your chassis number. I did this a few years back, their key cutting machine had long since broken but they knew of a person with one of these machines. It wasn't as expensive as you'd think somewhere between £20 and £30. Speaking from personal experience, I'd then go and get another copy of the master key cut at your local locksmiths and keep it in a safe place. Neil

Hi Rod, You have PM. Cheers, Neil

My blower motor took out the thermal fuse, in doing so it also burnt out the connector. I've already bought a new blower motor, but need the detachable connector that can be removed from the blower motor assembly: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/image_fuse3.html Cheers, Neil

I'd be interested in a bare PCB, Cheers, Neil

If you're after a good bodyshop in Cambridge you can do a lot worse than John Sole in Bassingbourn. It's the garage on the High Street with the bodyshop out back. Glenn is now in charge of quotes etc. Mention 'Neil - the bloke from CSR with the Corrado' and they may do you a deal. They're reasonably priced and you're welcome to meet up to have a look at the work they've done on my car recently. Neil

It depends how far you're willing to drive, MV Developments in Bassingbourn near Royston are very good but it'd take you about 35-40 minutes to drive there.

If your water temperature rapidly gets to 108 when you hit traffic then your fan switch may only be working on the faster (hotter) setting. The fan is supposed to come on in two stages - slowly at first then at full speed when your water temperature gets really high. I had a faulty fan switch that only worked at full speed so water temperatures would rapidly increase in traffic before the fan kicked in at high speed and brought them down again. I'd often walk away from the car at work with the fan going at full speed after sitting in traffic for a couple of minutes after a motorway speed commute. 108 on the MFA for oil temperature is normal and nothing to be worried about. Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

Are you getting the bolsters from Capital seating? I'm going to be doing something similar in the near future and was wondering where the best place is for replacement Recaro seat parts. Cheers, Neil 94 Flash Red 16v

They both carry out the same purpose, the cheap one that I got from ebay had 2 individual microswitches on top, the second one that I got from a breakers had a single module underneath. My 94 2.0 16v was originally fitted with the TB with the single module underneath so I was a little unsure about fitting a part that looked completely different. I also spent about an hour cleaning the internals of the replacement TB, this made a noticeable difference to throttle response. Cheers, Neil