Thom

Hi it's ignition switched 4.8v, with the ECU pulsing ground on crank and run. This is my understanding of it anyway. Not gospel, haha Yeh get the coilpack Wednesday, fingers crossed I'll be back on the road :-)

Some more helpful info,thanks! Yeh it had me stumped about the injector voltages as all the online info for most engines says 12v switched feed and a pulsed ground, so expected it to be the case here. Cheers

Handy tip that, cheers

Thanks for all the replies, ..After dropping the fuse box, bypassing the aftermarket immobiliser and checking all the wiring back from the fuel rail to the fuse box, it turns out that the origin of the problem is ignition and not fuelling after all. When I first checked for a spark, I used an led spark tester between each lead and plug and got a flash, however grounding the plugs (which were wet with fuel incidentally)on the block and cranking gave no spark (seems that my spark tester requires less voltage to work than a plug does!?) Wiring to the coil pack all measures as it should so have ordered a new coilpack. For info, some research found that 4.8v is the voltage for the injectors. Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to have a drink

Thanks Fender, Yeh I'm getting a low voltage even if grounding at the battery or on the chassis. I think that the 12v feed is shorting to ground somewhere along the wiring harness. Injectors are firing sporadically and I have 12v at the fuse box so am now working back along the loom trying to locate the short. Wish me luck!

Bump....anyone with a VR6 able to check what voltage they're getting at their injector supply?

I had this problem with my 16v. Ended up buying one of the below from US ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Mk2-Golf-Jetta-Gti-Gli-8v-16V-Fuel-Accumulator-Hose/272275494765?epid=1473862463&hash=item3f64e2576d:g:62gAAOxy79JRg5R8 Was a little pricey but probably cheaper than having them fabricated. I also bought the fuel pump to accumulator line from them at the same time too and was able to negotiate a decent combined price.

I bought one of the all aluminium ones from eBay for £150 as I was having trouble with leaks from the elbow flange and these come with that flange welded on as part of it. Didn't need to modify the car, only make a couple of brackets to fit it in replacement of the small L shaped brackets. The fan assembly bolted straight on and the bottom locating pins are in the right place. I will post some photos of this Friday if your interested?

Haha, no worries Shaun,...cheers

Thanks for all the replies, I'm slowly getting through the checklist. Would any VR6 owners be willing to check the voltage at their injector power supply plug with ignition on and let me know what they're getting?...might be that I can rule that out. Thanks again

Yeh it cranks, ..and from memory the immobiliser will let it run for a few seconds anyway before cutting out. I'm just off to check all ECU grounding points and inspect the fuel pressure regulator.

Thanks for all the replies, I've just bridged the ECU relay and still nothing :-/

Thanks, Yep, voltage read at the 2 pin plug to the right end of the injectors. I'm getting fuel at the rail, Have put a pipe on the little outlet and am getting fuel there, just the injectors aren't firing. The fuel is coming through the rail with decent pressure. Thanks again

Thanks Keyo, yeh literally just been out to do that, alo took off the plug to check for water ingress and it all appears fine.

Thanks Tony, I have tested it for continuity and all seems ok there. I'm getting 4.7v at the fuel rail both with ignition on and also when cranking. I would have thought that a bad crank sensor would be stopping ANY voltage reaching the fuel rail and also stopping the pump running, but that's working as normal. Have also checked the wiring to the cam sensor and am getting the full 12v there. Cheers, Thom

Hello, Have done a search but can't find an answer, apologies if this has been covered before.. I'm having trouble with my VR6 which will crank but refuses to start. I have replaced the fuel pump and ECU relays and have tested the ignition switch, fuel pump/lines and tested for a spark and all's good there. I've found though that I'm only getting ~5v at the fuel injector rail plug whilst cranking. VCDS also isn't throwing up any fault codes. Has anyone had a similar problem or any advice? I'm now looking for a short between the ECU and injectors. Thanks in advance, Thom

Hey Marks2, By Rear Bumper Bracket, is this the whole rear rebar/bumper mounting beam? If so, please can you let me know the condition & cost to courier? Thanks

Hi, Am looking for a driver's side front wing in Sherry Pearl LC2U if anyone has one to sell. I'm located in East Sussex. Cheers :-)

I have these ones on ebay if you want to make me an offer :-) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322036436203?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Have you checked all the fuses? I had a similar problem (would start and run for a second or 2, then cut out), symptoms just like a bad immobiliser circuit but turned out to just be a dead fuse (number 15 or 16 I think). In my case a de-immobilised ECU would still run the car too.

When I went to collect the part, it turned out to be the full pump assembly, minus the sender (and is apparently a specific part number for cars registered after mid 1995). I just used the original VDO sender and pipes with renewed clips and all is good. Removal from the tanks is quarter turn anti-clockwise (on a bayonet type fitting). I siphoned most of the fuel out of the tank first which made the job much easier.

Not to worry, got it sorted today.

Hi all, I had my fuel pump finally give up on me today. Have ordered a replacement from Euro Car Parts who tell me that because my car is 1996 registered, that the correct part is only the cylindrical pump itself, not with the housing/sender etc. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and that the pump can be replaced in the housing. I had thought that the entire unit needed to be changed. Also, I've made a start getting the old one out up to the stage of removing the pump unit from the tank. Am having a little trouble getting it out, is it as simple as twist anti-clockwise to remove? Cheers

Nevermind, got the ARB off now, not a difficult job at all once you look at it properly. :-)

Hi, had a nasty clunking from front driver's wheel yesterday and jacked up to find the drop link snapped on that side. Have got new ones to replace them, but can't get the link off the end of the ARB in situ as the nut is totally mangled and rusted solid. Can the links be hammered off the ball joint so I can try and get a socket over the nut? I want to take the anti roll bar off the car and try to change both drop links. Can anyone tell me how/the best way to remove the ARB? It looks like the whole subframe will need to be dropped, but it would be great if there's a better way. Cheers :-)