vw domo

jeeeeeeeeeeeeeez! and i thought my parking dings where bad, what a bas#!%d! hope you get it sorted buddy.

i found the strobe mark and wound the gear teeth towards me buy 4 teeth marking them in white but couldn't see the zero mark :scratch: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfPicture 069.jpg[/attachment:uxsgpry3] at this point the cam wheel was slightly out but in between teeth so i thought id keep turning to see if i could see the zero at one tooth advanced but still no joy so i don't know if it will make a difference if i move it? climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfPicture 070.jpg[/attachment:uxsgpry3] to get it to run i have to turn the distributer in the direction shown almost as far as it will go but it idles at about 2000/2500rpm and stutters a bit :confused4: Picture 065.2.JPG[/attachment:uxsgpry3] might try the chopstick method, being a noob an all could i ask which cylinder is cylinder no1.?

ok will try adjusting the idle screw whilst turning the distributer cap to see if i can get it to idle and run smooth, thanks. reason for all of this is i have changed the inlet cam for a kr one and changed the inlet manifold for a 50mm, should the ecu adjust for the changes or does it need professionally tuning?

I couldn't see the zero on the flywheel so i used the mark on the crank pulley and counted 4 teeth back from the timing mark just to be sure. i don't have a timing light so i just tried to use all the marks. When i changed the cam i made sure that the zero marks on the cams lined up whilst all the timing marks where in place. Is there any settings to change the mixture or idle etc or any other adjustments?

right all back together now. pully wheel set to the mark, cam wheel set to the mark and distributer set to the mark. turned it over and it ran for a couple of seconds and then died and the only way i can get it to run is buy twisting the distributer clockwise quite a bit but the revs run at about 2500 rpm. not sure what else i can do? :brickwall:

thanks. had a good look and tried cleaning the rust and dirt away but still cant see it, its a shame that you cant see the geer teeth in the diagram because than you could just rotate it the number of teeth from the strobe mark. will it be alright if its somewhere neer? iv got it set as to the digram.

i have tried useing the search but i cant find any info about where abouts the zero on the flywheel if in reference to the strobe mark, i have located the strobe mark but cant frikin find the zero, have been out there for hours :brickwall: any help would be greatly Appreciated.

printed into the cast on mine is WTR 072 5 H and WTR 072 2 N, i measured them with a vernier and there is 9.6mm of lift on the lobe but i cant find anwhere to check the part number. Im going into vw on tuesday so i will try and double check then. i went to get all the geskets for the 50 mm inlet manifold and there are two different types for the one that goes between the two parts of the manifold, anyone know the difference between the two?

let us know how you get on guys, i might be doing mine soon too! are you going for the mk2 16v inlet manifold as well?

Nothing against you toad, you seem to know your stuff. Do they lay down tar for the gravel to stick to or just dump it straight over the top of the old road then? Yea they have just started doing the (A326) matchwood bypass now, I find myself trekking down the back roads to avoid it but I think in running out of alternative roughs.

i mean, do the government not get enough money to resurface them properly of something, wheres all the taxes going? and when i phone them up are they going to re-bait me for my new paint job and windscreen? i doubt it! it just seems lazy and dangerous. :?

what link? lol

by the way, thoughts go out to all the bike riders :salute:

It is agreeably much better after but I just feel my myself sinking into my chair gritting my teeth as I see a tanker heading in the opposite direction :gag:

Has anyone noticed how much they have been resurfacing the roads around Hampshire, its ridicules! You can

very sorry to hear about this mate, ive been waiting for someone to run into my front bumper so that i can claim to get it all fixed up :lol: its surprising how little ppl care about corrados, i swear ppl just go out of there way to open there doors on mine :censored: hope all goes well with the repairs, il be out in the summer if i can get it nice and shiny again. :wave: dom

oooh nice, i was looking for a white rado too but settled for a nice aqua blue instead 8) when i brought mine the electric mirrors didnt work either but if you fiddle with them it cleans up the connectors after a while....failing that you can actually take then apart and clean them, that should be the problem if your lucky :grin: hope you enjoy it! just a thought.... but it would look cool if you took out the cover behind the rear vw badge so you could see it :grin: it the little things that count.

ye, sounds like the crunch is the abs test, it does it when the abs kicks in as well, only on that front drivers side wheel though. don't really know how the system works so have been reluctant to have a look, thought it might be the caliper? thanks edd

sounds like drivers site,colse to the footwell.

thers this crunch sound when i pull away, it only does it once after starting her up. it kinde off sounds like gears crunching and i can feal it through the clutch peddle, but still does it roaling out of gear. saw how helpfull you guys where on some other posts and thought you might have some idea of the problem before something goes wrong, again :? . thanks :D

i don't know what circuit it was, you could see the live wire to the fuse box was draining and the only way to check it was to check every connection on the fuse box by taking the connection out and checking the live wire again. after this turned out inconclusive there must have been a short in the wire somewhere. some of the other wires in the loom where like this and they where getting power from the live wire, like the fan and the light bypassing the control.

after Isolating the drain (which was coming form the live wire from the fuse box direct to the battery) i traced the wire from the battery, round the engine bay and into the driver side footwel. it comes along side the hot air feed pipe on the air filter, the wires where getting rubbed away by the Jubilee clip on the hot air feed pipe and shorting out. this looked like a drain from the fuse box but was just a small leak from the revealed wire, this is worth checking if you have the same problem. :D

thanks alot dave, works a treat' good job! :D

hi dave, i have sent you the money via paypal, do you need info in p&p? dom

it just gone from bad to worse, after taking out the fuse box to check for bad connections and putting it back in the Immobiliser only works with the ignition switched on, and the same is for the fan, the spoiler has stopped working and a headlight is out. battery still draining! please help!