ProdigalSon

Aaaand for the benefit of all those who come to this thread (much much) later, here is the other thread mentioning the Passat part (3A0501639) that is identical - I returned the VW Heritage part as it was the non-ABS version and useless to me!

Will let you know if it works for my G60... Will have a search for the thread listing Passat part code, thanks. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

nrc is right - I've just removed my O/S stub axle and the 'stub axle cover plate' (as it's called) was on the outside of the stub axle, preventing access to the 4 bolts that hold it all onto the trailing arm. So, I bent it inwards to access the 15mm bolt heads, and after removing those bolts I noticed that the bending had caused a small split where the cover plate had been forced even further onto the stub axle, so I stressed that until it broke in two and allowed me to get the stone shield off. I've ordered another cover plate from VW Heritage for £4.50 plus P&P... :thumbleft:

Thanks! '92 N-chassis, so that'll do me [emoji106] Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I can get 15 gallons (70L) in my G60 Corrado from empty, or am I fooling myself?! Asking because I need new straps and am about to press the button on the ebay item previously linked... Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

See my 'build thread', don't want to take Tomi's thread further off-topic! ;-)

I just recently put my C in for its MOT two weeks early, so I could still drive it and get around (for parts etc!) if it failed on something minor. It did fail on a tyre (low tread -fair enough, and easy to fix!) and also a headlight being too deteriorated(...?) Got an early lens from clumpy1 in case it was my glass, but noticed the silver was in bad shape on the reflector also, so patched that up too with aluminium tape. Finally fitted a pair of Philips extreme-something-or-other bulbs (I'm not running my uprated loom at the mo, as it has previously failed MOT due to lack of dim sidelights). Before: After: Early glass: Long story short, it passed, so off to France next weekend, for a bit of a roadtrip to a mate's wedding :-D

Cheers slot, I've had PMs with Tomi, but his reflectors wouldn't get here quick enough for my MOT today. Had to get creative, but it worked and I have a pass. :-D

Hi Stonejag, Do you have the left (passenger) side headlight reflector, and is it in reasonable condition (shiny and not dull/yellowed)? If so, I'm interested. Cheers!

Hi tomi, Are you in the UK? Will you post these first class (for next-day delivery) with insurance at that price? Let me know, thanks ;-)

Boost got rid of his C but has a Golf and a Polo now for him and his missus, so he's still in 'the family' ;-) He's recently got himself a 3D printer and is proper handy with CAD, so I'm gonna ask him to make some bits of obsolete trim. If he upgrades to one of those laser sintered metal powder printers I'd ask for mechanical and bodywork parts too! :-D

Hold that thought - I have fresh glass being delivered late next week so may not need yours...

Cheers Poll ;-) Sooo, just had my C in for its MOT again, failed on a tire (predictable) and poor pattern from NSF headlight due to deterioration in the lens (unexpected!)... Have bought replacement glass off clumpy1 and will post an update when I have it on the car :-)

How much for one NS headlight delivered to Oxfordshire for late next week?!

Do you still have any passenger (nearside) headlight glass? I'm after one for a headlight rebuild on my daily. Cheers mate, P.

Do you still have any passenger (nearside) headlight glass? I'm after one for a headlight rebuild on my daily. Cheers mate, P.

Hi Aaron, You don't need to get a K&N panel filter, and if you do get one it won't get rid of the droning noise. I have one and it's great (free-flowing and re-usable), but my drone is no less loud compared to an OEM paper filter... The reason you can hear the drone more clearly than on a car with a stock charger is that your charger is spinning faster; the original pulley size meant that the charger was spinning at 1.5 times the engine speed - in musical terms that's a major fifth, which is a pleasant interval and one that your brain 'tunes out' very quickly, whereas with a 68mm pulley the charger spins about 30% faster, so close to twice the speed of the engine. If it was exactly twice the speed it would be an octave higher than the engine (and you probably couldn't tell the two apart), but it's not quite that fast, so you get a slight dissonance and, much more audibly, you get beat frequencies as the engine and charger go in and out of phase with one another, which results in the characteristic 'wob wob' noise that sounds a bit like wheel bearings on their way out (but the charger noise varies with engine speed, not simply wheel speed). All of that is from memory, so apologies if I got it wrong, corrections welcome ;-)

Thanks guys! :grin: Yeah they did go through the insurance in the end - I approached VW initially and the (ex-panel-beater) assessor they sent quoted £1,400 so I guess the insurers got 'trade rates' for having exactly the same work done... It was Kidlington VW, who have a separate bodywork and paint shop in Enstone I think. The odometer had only about 20 more miles on it when they brought it back, so pretty local to the Oxford area. Oh, and they were good enough to fix the scuffed paint/flash rust on the trailing edge of the passenger door, which wasn't caused by the accident but by the usual opening-the-door-into-a-wall. Top marks VW! :salute:

Cheers, and yes it is!

UPDATE - it has now been fixed! :dance: It took about 7 working days, Ridgeway VW did a great job, and I saw in the paperwork that they were charging the 3rd party insurer about £900 all in:

Cheers, will Google them - do you have 1st-hand experience, or did a mate say they're good?

I was at a mate's house yesterday, with my C parked on the street outside, when a lady knocked on the door and confessed to having backed her commercial van of her drive (opposite) into my nearside rear quarter :( 10/10 for honesty, but she doesn't want to claim on her insurance, so I'm looking for recommendations for good VW-savvy bodyshops in Oxford(shire) or nearby, eg. 25 mile range... Anyone have recent good experiences with getting their Corrado straightened and painted in this part of the country? Cheers in advance ;)

It passed the MOT retest (unsurprisingly, as that bolt could probably hold the entire weight of ther car) so I'm happy ;) Thanks again to somersetdub and CazzaVR :thumbleft:

So, my C failed its MOT due to excess play in the steering column (up & down), but CazzaVR pointed me at this topic :thumbleft: so I got down to B&Q and bought some M6 x 100 bolts, M6 nuts and a coupla different size washers, and tried it out... Here's the steering column underside with cowling and steering wheel removed, you can see the tensioning spring to the lower left: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60673[/ATTACH] Side on it looks like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60677[/ATTACH] And here's how I took it out with a couple of pairs of molegrips (not sure how much compression it was under)! [ATTACH=CONFIG]60681[/ATTACH] So now you can see the 'dome' that the far end of the spring sat on - this needs drilling to get your bolt through: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60685[/ATTACH] To get a good start, I holepunched the middle of the dome, which also shows the path of the drillbit later: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60689[/ATTACH] But that was a bit too close to the wiring, so I disconnected it and pulled it under the column and to the right (and also removed the column adjustment lever and the top cowling): [ATTACH=CONFIG]60693[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]60697[/ATTACH] When I first tried to drill the 6mm hole in the dome, I realised that the black plastic of the stalk switch housing would foul, so I moved them out of the way too: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60701[/ATTACH] The hole was pretty tricky to drill and it made a LOT of swarf, so make sure you cover ALL of the switches and connectors, and either lay down some rags or be ready to bin your drivers mat afterwards! Having drilled the hole I cleaned up the edges with a Dremel and set the column at the right angle for me, as it will effectively be permanently set unless I want to undo all the nuts etc. to adjust the angle at a later date (unlikely!) I went for double nuts on both sides of both the pieces of metal that the bolt goes through, so that none of the nuts would slip (they are modestly tightened against their neighbours) and that the bolt would brace the column both up (in tension) and down (in compression). Yeah, it is belt and braces, but don't want to have to adjust it again, just set and forget: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60705[/ATTACH] In this pic you can see the two larger (repair) washers at the front (right of pic) where the large hole is, and two regular M6 washers at the rear (left of pic) where there's a neat-ish 6mm hole, and double nuts to brace the bolt properly and prevent each other from loosening: [ATTACH=CONFIG]60709[/ATTACH] I trimmed the last 15-20mm from the bolt (after I took these pics) so that I could get the lower cowling back on properly, so an M6 x 80mm bolt would be ideal. Parts: 1 off M6 x 80mm bolt ideally 2 off 6-32mm repair washers 2 off M6 washer 6 off M6 nut Labour: About 2 hours start to finish, with a bit of faff as I worked out where the steering wheel should be so that it was level when driving in a straight line! Result: WAY better, really solid, only slight up/down movement is due to the column moving the mounting point on the chassis! Hopefully that'll be an MOT pass now... Thanks for the idea somersetdub! :salute:

Hi Stuey, Can you give me a two totals please, one with postage, one for collection, for the whole fixed steering column rig: from top nut (under horn switch) to bottom spring (at junction with UJ) including upper and lower cowl/trim around the ignition and other wiring, but without the actual steering wheel? I need to replace my adjustable column as it's getting too sloppy, so want the whole kit in one if possible ;) I have cash waiting...