Lee1873

Nice one oz I will take em :D splitter would be good too if you can sort it :salute: Hows the new engine anyway? Bottom ends just lying here ready for you to collect, I could bring it through if youve got indicators & a splitter for me though :lol: No point hanging about Steve, rad is good as is the fan & switch, cheers again :salute: Im with you on the KR/9A thing as my 9A felt lethargic, this doesnt Glad you got the VR insured, least if nothing else you can enjoy it for a few weeks after all the work youve put into it & maybe, just maybe it will make you keep it :wink: Will defo take the handbrake handle if its going too mate, bloody puppy :cuckoo: :lol: The block/crank etc. is OK but it had a nasty top end rattle as one of the cams has run its bearings as its tighter than a tight thing, probably repairable but it was cheaper, quicker & easier for me just to swap it out with a known good KR lump, I may rebuild the ABF if I can find the time but really want to get my mk1 GTi finished now as its lay for a year without much happening, possibly because my next job on it is to fit a brand new headlining which Im told is an absolute nightmare to do :censored:

Coming along nicely now, gave the bay a good degrease & then powerwashed it all before I picked up a replacement KR engine in Hamilton on wednesday evening :D Twas' an interesting drive home with a valver lump & box complete with all attatched ancilliaries & still full of oil stuffed in the boot of an old vectra hatchback, wheelied the car 60 miles home sporting the r8 look through the rear hatch window :lol: So Thursday, gave the replacement engine a good powerwash while dangling off my crane, all was going well with most of the old grime coming off nicely until I got to the sump, this was covered in the thick hardened old oil etc. & it was coming off no problem to be fair but I noticed a pretty major drip of engine oil after removing all the grime from it, turned out the sump was pretty pourous & there was a pinhole in it :censored: Looked @ fitting the ABF alloy sump to it but wasnt sure it would fit without problems even if I used the ABF pickup pipe & couldnt find out for sure anywhere so got another sump & fitted it, then i found the little tabs on the starter were rusty & broke off the minute I went near them so had to change that too :brickwall: Friday, started fitting the engine to the bay, again all going well until I got to the power steering :cuckoo: the pump I took off the ABF & left connected to the rack/resevoir etc. turned out to be different from the pump on the new engine, now bearing in mind when I removed the engine from the car in Hamilton we tried to unscrew the rack to pump pipe from the pump & it immediately twisted & sheared off :bad-words: you can imagine how much I was looking forward to attempting the same move on my pump, luckily the rust gods were smiling as mine came off no problem whatsoever & I was able to connect the pipes with little trouble :clap: Today I got her fired up & its all good, even got to give her a little blast & it was good fun giving a 4 pot some beans for a change :grin: All cosmetic really from now, gotta repaint the wiper arms black & get rid of the nasty yellow tinted rear lights, find a drivers side indicator & another front splitter... Heres a few new pics.

Ah well not to worry thanks for looking anyway :cheers: Started stripping it to get the engine & box out yesterday & all Ive gotta do now is lift the lump & gearbox out with the crane, discovered it had a knackered radiator too but already managed to get a replacement locally(cheers stevej) Bonus was finding it had a stainless 4 branch & vibratechnic mounts allround though 8) Hoping to get an engine asap now, also will be looking for some 7.5x15 or 16" wheels for it in the next couple of weeks when funds allow. Will lift the engine out in the morning & clean up the bay, subframe etc. hopefully running by the end of this weekend all being well :D Not gave a valver a good thrashing in a while now, looking forward to it :grin: EDIT:- its out! gotta be better than watchin emmerdale or eastenders hasnt it :lol:

Is that really all you have to do to make the ABF fit properly, is there a guide or how to anywhere specifically for the ABF in a corrado? The car already has a late/vr bonnet on but I had heard there was issues with clearance elsewhere with the tall block(steering rack possibly?) Would love to know exactly whats needed to make it work as I have the chance of another ABF lump fairly locally but had dismissed it on the tall block being an issue basis.

The reg is currently UIJ 643 however I think it was previously registered as G913 WPE based on all the windows, headlights etc. being etched with the latter no. It appears to have been owned by a garage proprietor from London in the late 90s/early millenium, namely "car-tech" who It appears were german & italian independent specialists? CCGB club membership no. was 391

Picked up this a few days ago, its in need of major attention @ the moment but it has been a highly cherished car of someones over the years so I think its worth saving. (the grey cars a friends that Ive just swapped the engine in as the crank pulley let go :pukeright: & the blue one is my daily) The car had a tsr engine fitted to it @ some point but the previous owner removed it as it was pumped & "fitted" an ABF engine in it that is also pumped hence me getting the car :cuckoo: more on this later :lol: So I started checking it over today to see exactly whats what with it as I bought it in the dark knowing then engine was pumped, its possibly the worst "fitting" of an engine Ive ever came across tbh all sorts of odd or plainly wrong bolts in all the wrong places, slack bolts in bell housing, bolts missing alltogether, knock sensors just hanging off the engine going nowhere, wrong 4branch/downpipe for the engine & lots of other odds n sods either broken or not connected :censored: Saving grace is the bodywork is good(granted it has a bodykit :grin: ) & I can fix anything else myself given the time & money. Question is what engine do I stick in it? already had a 20vt(HATED IT), currently own an aqua blue VR(LOVE IT BODYWORKS NOT TOO HOT BUT SOLID ALL THE SAME) With this car being an early one I like the fact it has no ABS or CAT so am leaning towards sticking a tuned KR or 9A in it so if anyone has any views between the 2 then feel free to chip in, I do have access to another ABF lump @ the moment but it seems so "ill fitting" that Im not sure if its worth the bother? is it just the downpipe clearance issue with this conversion? Anybody got a KR or 9A engine theyre constantly tripping over? :lol: a dragon green rear bumper? Nearly forgot, the car came with a massive file full of paperwork relating to it including a corrado club membership etc. & it has corrado forum stickers on it, so whos was it & what can you tell me about it if anything? I will update this as I go.........

"Grown ups" I had tears of laughter watching this @ a few bits, 8.5/10 Not enough good comedy flicks made these days imo

Im in Glenrothes Alex, its a VR I have & could be doing with a drivers door, bonnet & a quieter exhaust :cuckoo: What colour is the car thats breaking up your way? the bonnets probably no good to me if its an early one but the door could be if its electric windows? Nice one Bill 8) what was up in the end then?

Vultures.jpg[/attachment:26ki80f0] Guilty as charged Bill :oops: Did you get your one fixed or should I also have nipped down to star to see if they had an aqua one breaking :lol:

I went down to check this out today as its local & I could be doing with a few panels for mine, unfortunately or fortunately depending on your viewpoint :lol: its a customers car & is being rebuilt, the garage proprietor seemed offended when I asked whos "the old corrado" was lying out there & he said its not an "old corrado" :grin: I mean come on they are all old now & its not exactly minty is it

Hi mate, according to "autodata" resistance should be anywhere between 480-1000 to be "in spec" Im currently having non start issues with a Golf VR(no fuel no spark) & I think its the crank sensor thats knackered, I get no resistance reading from it on the golf but having checked my rado(thats running) it gives me a reading just over 600 HTH

The one with the rubber mount & 10mm bolt through it? If yes then take the bolt right out & lever or pull upwards the round part up & away from the slam panel, its just a right angled mount that slips into the plastic bit of the rad.

Yes mate the 4x17mm bolts hold the bumper on, just dont undo the smaller bolt inbetween them or your engine will fall out as this is the bolt that holds the front crossmember on that your front engine mount is bolted to :lol:

Hi Bill, not sure what factory spec. is/was but the information I have regards tolerance is as follows:- The maximum head distortion is 0.1mm Minumum cylinder head height 139.5mm

Ive got a couple of heads lying Bill if it turns out to be a head issue :thumb right:

Definetly the same as a golf VR one anyway, 100% sure as Ive bought & fitted a few myself, also depends what year the car is though as early ones are rubber & late ones are not(could be other way round but theres definetly two types)

Thanks for your help mate much appreciated, I ran all the tests you suggested & it appears the ecu trigger must be dead, either that or the aftermarket immobiliser is in the circuit & stopping the feed, no ground signal from the thin pin socket for the fuel pump relay & no fluctuation @ the injectors :( Thing puzzling me now is that the wire G01/03 is black in colour & runs to what looks like an aftermarket relay thats fitted to the top of the fusebox, Im thinking this may be part of the aftermarket alarm/immobiliser, is this logical thinking? Presumably under normal circumstances this wire would come directly from a certain pin(pin 6 i think?) on the ecu plug? If that is the case before trying to cut out the aftermarket alarm sys. would it be plausible that i run a temporary wire from the correct wire/pin on the ecu plug loom to the pin G01/03 to see if it triggers? Any other tips/help you could give would be great cheers

The car still has the factory immobiliser along with an aftermarket one that i switched off before trying to sort the problem, going by what you say then can I just unplug the relay from the front of the fusebox & stick the multimeter in the terminals there to check for the ecu trigger signal or do i have to drop the fusebox & take the plug out the back & test it this way? Ive had issues in the past with the factory immobiliser on these myself but normally they run for a sec. or 2 then die? Also tried the ususal dodgy ignition switch & have done the wiggling the key thing with no joy either. Will have another look this afternoon & see how I get on cheers again

Cheers mate :thumb right: So I take it Im looking for battery voltage from G01/03? & only when cranking the engine over? If theres no feed there where should I be looking? ecu? crank sensor? Also have a multi meter to check injectors, do i just unplug one & check for power (when cranking over)? cheers again Lee

cheers for replying mate, I didnt think the obd2 cars have an ecu relay? certainly doesnt have one in the fusebox with a 109 on it? As i said I already tried the fuel pump relay no.167 but no difference. If your sure this relay is indeed on an obd2 I will check again, could you by any chance tell me what position it is in the fusebox? cheers Lee

My mates Golf vr obd2 currently wont start, no fuel getting to the rail when cranking, unsure if theres spark. Im led to believe on an obd2 engine the pump doesnt actually prime & only runs when the engines cranking, tried the fuel pump relay with a known good one & no change, when scanned with vag.com it does show a maf fault(short to ground) but Ive had this fault before on VRs & the car still runs allbeit roughly I tried giving the pump a separate 12v feed when cranking(or even not) the engine & the pump ran & delivered fuel to the rail. So my question basically is, what component/sensor triggers the fuel pump /injectors & ignition system when you turn the key? am I right in thinking along the lines of the crank sensor being faulty & this being the trigger to start the pump/injectors & ignition circuits? blown ecu also crossed my mind but would the diagnostics still communicate properly if this was the case? any tips appreciated cheers Lee

Nightmare Bill :( Could be any number of things really, dodgy tappet, cam sensor or trigger, timing or even the coil pack(if it has one), my own VR was missing a little when I got it & a new cam sensor sorted it, I didnt have any knocking although it did "pink" badly under load & was lumpy on idle, Is the work being done @ our local "friendly fife specialists"? Hope you get sorted easy enough.....

Mine came with solitudes, it now wears speedlines :D Solitudes look far to "girly" on the rado :lol:

If it were me I would use an allen key & a ring spanner the same size as it, you may have to sacrifice an allen key by cutting it down a bit but theyre not expensive & Ive found handy to have for other jobs, a ratchet spanner(if theres room) that fits the allen key makes it even easier... In simple terms cut roughly 1" length (or whatever size you need to make it work)off the correct size allen key slide the piece you cut off into the correct fit ring or ratchet spanner & use the spanner to apply torque to said allen bolt :lol: There is times where theres not enough room for the ring spanner to work so you have to use as good a fitting open end spanner as you can & hope the bolts not too tight.

:D what you mean IF? :lol: WHEN I get it going Im sure you will see it buzzing about :grin: Thanks Dubstar 8) I must confess that when I bought it I had profit in mind but the longer I spend on it in man hours along with the cash Its gonna take some offer for me to sell it now. Cheers, dont think its the original colour but Ive no idea what the original colour was as I bought the shell having had paint already & had already been changed on the logbook, Im not 100% sure but I dont think a GTi came in yellow from the factory? I do know it was originally purchased in Germany though so maybe you did over there? Thanks 8) Cheers, its more than 15 years since I owned my last one but couldnt resist this one when it came up locally, Im sure your mate has enough of a grin with the R though :grin: cheers 8) I say 90% but im an optimist :lol: