Lee1873

Thanks for that guys.....turns out the autodata diagram i posted earlier matches my car perfectly 8) couple of things still to suss but getting there....slowly firstly i have these 2 vacuum hoses coming from the actuator? 1 of em goes to the boost ctrl valve i think & the other 1 went to some little valve on top of the cam cover which i no longer require......so....where do i run the 2nd pipe to? do i just plumb it to the inlet manifold? ive attached a pic so you know what im on about & the 2 pipes in question...all advice/help appreciated cheers Lee

Anyone? Pleeeeaase, dying to get this running now & as already pointed out in the thread my autodata wiring info is wrong & i cAnt find relevant wiring info anywhere.......already been in touch with Qpeng but there info is for a mk3 golf & certainly doesnt sync up with my car regards wire colours Also while im here where do i take the vacuum feed from for the map sensor?

Right chaps, just received my loom/ecu/downpipe combo from Qpeng, connected it up to the engine & mounted the ECU & im now left with 3 wires to connect up to the main corrado harness, these are 1. thick black wire labelled 12v supply 2. blue/yellow wire labelled fuel pump 3. red/black wire labelled tacho.. My question is can anyone tell me what colour wires i should be joining these up to? (my car is a 95 2.0 16v) i colud also do with knowing what i connect up the coolant temp sensor wire to aswell???? Theres a 4th wire coming from the Qpeng loom up @ the ecu, this is solid blue & is unlabelled anyone any idea what/where it goes? Lastly what have you Qpeng folks done to connect up the oil pressure light etc.???? cheers Lee

Hi Quicky, sounds like your the man to answer a few qs i have myself regards this vr/16v strut/hub/shaft combo.. i have just acquired a 1995 golf vr6 & was wondering if i could bolt up the complete strut/hub caliper assembly up to my 1995 corrado 16v(which is currently midway through a 20vt conversion) Are the splines on the hubs the same as each other? if not im assuming from previous posts on this thread that i could just swap over the outer cv js from the golf vr shafts to the 16v shafts? im not intersted in the wider track just the bigger brakes & 5 studs cheers Lee

Had issues with these chancers myself in years gone by, i dunno where his "reputation" comes from personally, Jim is a mere turner by trade & his main mechanic son is toyota trained...oh & i could practically spit on his place from my house & wouldnt dream of going near it along with many, many other local folk........take from that what you will

just wondering if any of you folks have used/use "erwin" for technical info, specifically looking for wiring diagrams for 1995 corrado valver with the 9A engine, do erwin have decent wiring diagrams? somebody somewhere must have access to proper diagrams for this car? do the dealers have this wiring info readily available? i have the latest autodata info & it was all wrong for my car so as good as useless & it seems folks are struggling to find tacho wires etc when doing conversions on this particular model car....ive yet to try on mine as my looms not done yet but have read many similar stories regards folk being unable to get diagrams for this car So whos gonna be the star to step up with all the answers & keep us all happy with a working rev counter :lol:

No you cant which is really the only drawback in going with the setup, they even offer free remaps if you upgrade your engine with o.e. parts 8)

No bother mate gimme 10 mins, :D Yep only just cut up the ibiza loom today to send to Qpeng, everything ive seen about em seems fairly positive with the customer service being 1st class by all accounts along with the ease of installing edited for me being a thick **** :)

Quality mate cheers 8) Im putting it in this car "N reg valver" same as yours....... :lol: im using the ibiza box etc complete...im lucky i had the whole salvaged donor car 8) i had to change the shift tower on the box but the box bolted straight in after that......i wasnt sure the driveshafts would bolt straight up to the box but ive tested the ibiza shafts on the valver box & they fit so all good 8) i have the standard side mount intercooler here from the ibiza too so im not really sure if its worth me splashing out for for a fmic....anybody know could i maybe just use the standard intercooler & mount it @ the front ? im only looking @ 200bhp for now..... cheers

I could do with seeing a few converted engine bay pics myself just to get my head round the plumbing side of things....cyber pints for anyone who sticks some up 8) heres a couple of mine so far.......... What box are you using timmmy? what p.s. pump & does your p.s.pipes banjo fitting sit incredibly close to the front crossmember? Does your timing belt cover touch the brake master cyl.? mines is touching but only just no actual pressure not sure i want to chop the timing cover up to stop it though :shock: cheers Lee

Ive replied in the forced 20v thread mate :wink:

Right Timmy heres the autodata wiring info...sorry it took so long but i had to write it down 1st then type it out.... PLEASE NOTE I CANNOT VERIFY THIS TO BE 100% ACCURATE TO YOUR CAR!!! THIS IS TAKEN STRAIGHT FROM AUTODATA & IVE NOT CONFIRMED IT WITH MY OWN CAR YET.... anyway here it is.. CORRADO 2.0 16V 9A ECU PIN OUTS PIN ] WIRE COLOUR(s) [ ROUTED TO ] 1 ] GREY/WHITE [ DATA LINK CONNECTOR ] 2 ] BLUE/WHITE [ SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR ] 3 ] VIOLET/BLACK [ ENG.COOLANT TEMP SENSOR ] 4 ] RED/WHITE [ DIFF.PRESS.REGULATOR ] 5 ] BROWN/BLUE [ DIFF.PRESS.REGULATOR ] 6 ] GREY [ KNOCK SENSOR 2 ] 7 ] VIOLET [ 02 SENSOR ] 8 ] YELLOW [ KNOCK SENSOR 1 ] 9 ] -------------------[ -------------------------] 10 ] VIOLET/WHITE [ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ] 11 ] GREEN [ IGNITION AMPLIFIER ] 12 ] RED/YELLOW [ FUEL PUMP RELAY ] 13 ] -------------------[ -------------------------] 14 ] BLACK [ IGNITION SWITCH(fuelpump)] 15 ] GREEN/YELLOW [ EVAP.CANNISTER VALVE ] 16 ] BLACK/RED [ COLD START INJECTOR ] 17 ] WHITE [ IDLE AIR VALVE ] 18 ] BROWN/YELLOW [ EARTH ] 19 ] RED [ BATTERY + ] 20 ] BROWN BLACK(AUTO) [ EARTH ] 21 ] RED/WHITE/RED/BLACK[ CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENS.] 22 ] YELLOW [ DATA LINK CONNECTOR ] 23 ] GREY/GREEN [ VOLUME AIRFLOW SENSOR ] 24 ] WHITE [ KNOCK SENSOR #1 ] 25 ] GREEN/BLUE [ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ] 26 ] GREY/RED [ VOLUME AIRFLOW SENSOR ] 27 ] GREEN [ CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ] 28 ] WHITE/RED [ CLOSED TPS SWITCH ] 29 ] RED [ CAMSHAFT POSTION SENSOR ] 30 ] GREEN/WHITE [ CRANK POSITION SENSOR ] 31 ] YELLOW/RED [ TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR ] 32 ] YELLOW/VIOLET [ W.O.T. SWITCH ] 33 ] GREEN/RED(green) [ AIR CON. ] 34 ] BROWN/RED [ TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR ] 35 ] BROWN [ EARTH ] ----------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------- Hope its of some help to you....

Hi mate im doing the exact same thing with my 95 rado 16v, ive just cut the plug off my ecu & am trying to sort out the wiring & plan using qpeng too, Im relying on autodata wiring diagram which ive attached a pic of a diagram for you...hope it helps & if you need anymore info just ask.....im sure i will have a few questions of my own when the time comes :D oops nearly forgot the colour code key...not much good to you without it eh :D

If you have no voltage @ the dizzy then 1st you need to find out why, so 1st check you have power to the ecu, then check you have power from the ecu to the ignition module(the small black plastic thing in the scuttle on the alloy heatsink), then the coil voltage, i had the same bother on a valver & it was the ignition module that fixed it for me, im not familiar with the g60 wiring but i would imagine the ign. circuit will be much the same & maybe some kind chap from here can tell you what wires to stick the multimeter on to get the appropriate readings HTH

P.M. sent

Cheers for the input guys, on the basis i cant do away with DBW & run standard ecu i will definetly be going down the standalone route then i think(can anyone 100% confirm this is the case), even though i have the full donor car it would all be a bit of a struggle for me i think to fit the whole loom+clocks, pedal box etc, i trained as a mechanic many years ago(not on the tools now) but electrics side of things have never been my strong point so a simple plug & play & an additional throttle body i can live with, one other thing i was going to ask was what box should i use? i know i can use the original valver box but as i have the box in the cupra should i just use that?

Hey guys, ive finally sourced my engine etc for this conversion, its an engine from a seat cupra & i have the clocks, ecu, etc etc.& also have access to the rest of whats left of the car, almost immediately im faced with a bit of a dilema, do i run standard management as ideally i would still like to pull fault codes etc & the fact i have it all here for no extra cost? or do i run aftermarket such as Qpeng? Does anyone know if i can run standard management & still do away with the drive by wire throttle? If i cant then i assume i would need the whole pedal box from the donor car? Its going into a 95 rado valver Please help im choking to get started :D

Yes its the exact same as the mk2 gti pipe

Ive just got myself a 4 branch to replace my knackered downpipe on a g plate corrado...question is whats the best/easiest way to fit it? i know that just to do the normal downpipe i had to lower the subframe slightly but dont see this working with the 4 branch? could it possibly be done from the top of the engine after splitting the inlet manifold top part & removing? failing that its engine out & i just cant see that being the case surely? any info/tips appreciated cheers Lee

So......the only direct bolt on upgrade @ 280mm is an early mk3 golf gti or a corrado g60? if i was to attempt putting the vr6 1s on i presume the simplest method would be to change the hubs complete then(assuming the splines are the same) which would then mean running 5 stud wheels(no way hos e 4 stud borbets aint going nowhere) whos got a set of g60 brakes+carriers for me then :lol:

hey guys wonder if anyone could tell me if a set of front calipers from an m reg golf vr6 will bolt straight on to my 1995 corrado 16v if i bought a set of g60 discs? cheers Lee

Happened to me a few times now on mk2 gtis......the only fix without removing the subframe & re-tapping or hellicoil....is......cutting open the floor & either drilling through the captive nuts holder or cutting it off & welding in a nut or 2 joined together as i did, back to the floor.....i feel your pain mate its a total nob of a design & was bound to happen as these cars got on a bit with the amount of torque on the bolt your supposed to apply & the frequency of the bushes going HTH Lee

F**k Me! they want over £200+vat @ the dealer for the correct master cylinder for my car & i cant find 1 anywhere else, anyone got any ideas? cheers Lee

Right then managed to get a better look @ the M.C. on my car today which i think has proved successful(touches wood) I "think" the part no. for the 1 fitted to my car is as follows...358 611 019 D...the 1 i was supplied via both the dealer & an independant motor factor has this vw part no.....357 611 019 B...........now its still might not be correct but im just guessing by looking @ the illustrations in a "certain parts suite" & comparing how my M.C. physically looks.......dont know how/why mines would be different to the norm would love if somebody could enlighten me fingers well & truly crossed cheers Lee

Cheers mate, yep car does have abs unfortunately, im gonna go out today & see if i can find a part no. on the M.C. as ive now been supplied 2 identical 1s which are meant to fit my car which clearly wont without some major brake pipe surgery, ive got a sinking feeling somebody has fitted the wrong servo or M.C. to my car which in itself wont be too bad as long as i can find a part no. on it without removing it from the car(its my only mode of transport just now) cheers Lee