Richardshoes

if you're lucky it's a bearing. If you're unlucky its a damaged displacer and housing wall.

mechanics stethoscope should pin point the noise.

That sounds like a goer. I'll give it a whirl when I get home tonight. Cheers.

Didn't get it off. What size are the bolt heads for taking off the whole shaft at the flange? They look like double hex or something? Don't think I have that bit. Do Halfords sell them, and what size is it? Cheers.

Hi Guys, I have been trying to knock the outer cv joint of the drive shaft as per the instructions in the bentley manual. Whacking it with an aluminium hammer hasn't budged it in the last hour of mad hammering. There's a circlip holding the joint in place on the splined shaft, and I don't see how whacking it will get the joint past this inner circlip I can't see. Does anyone have any suggestions or methods on how to split the joint from the driveshaft? Finding it quite frustrating :confused4: Cheers.

You'll need TX55 or 50 (can't remember) bit to remove the bolts

I take it you have a copy? This may seem a little forward but - can I have a copy?

Where can I get a hold of these VW videos? Cheers.

Got some info 860cm^3 per/rev rated speed = 10000RPM

I think the below link should answer your queries http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Corrado/VW_Corrado_G60_1.8L_Engine_SelfStudyGuide.pdf

May be worth getting a Bentley manual. You can test each component following the procedures in there.

It doesn't matter that you are in Italy. I will gladly pay the freight for the engine. What do you think, or were you bluffing?

Hi. You are correct about the isv working as an overboost control. The factory setting is 0.8bar. 11.6psi. I think the ECU signal comes from the vacuum hose from the throttle body and opens the isv fully at anything above 0.8bar.

The PG engine casting is a different beast.

I have decided to bore this block out and build a higher capacity engine. The bore geometry is a bit iffy, and I don't fancy cutting corners. Regards the block you have with pistons - if it's still on offer I would really like it, as I intend on building a few of these engines. Let me know. Eprom movement has been slow - been away on holiday for the last while. Plus I'm not allowed to talk about it on here :shock:

Hi guys. I am trying to refurb a PG engine on a budget. All bores read on average about 81.14mm - Bentley spec: 81.01 +/-0.08 - All four are oversize after honing to remove a ring ridge! :mad2: All piston skirts come in at 80.95 - Bentley spec: 80.985 +/-0.04 The gap on the new rings will most likely be outwith new bore/ring tolerance but well within the wear limit of 1mm. The piston can pivot a larger angle on the gudgeon due to the bore being oversize, but it is 0.025 on the radius which will equate to a very small increase in potential angular movement. My feeling is it will be safe to continue, but I'd like some advice. If anyone can help or offer an opinion it will be very much appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.autoperformanceparts.co.uk/page14.htm

Got it installed. Seems a little louder and perhaps marginally more responsive. Plan to monitor boost levels at varying locations along the boost path, The route seems rigorous and I expect there is a significant loss involved in flowing from the charger down through the small air/air intercooler then up into the throttle body, through that and into the inlet manifold.

Hi chaps. Can the clutch master cylinder be removed without taking off the brake servo on a 16V C? The mounting bolt to the bulkhead closest to the servo looks difficult to get at without the servo removed. Cheers.

Here is a screenshot of some analysis. Red indicates increased velocity. The parameters are wrong, as I still don't know the output flow from the G-charger? :?

Got one. A type of airfoil has been machined into the two fins. The leading edge is more or less a knife edge, as is the back. This should reduce turbulence somewhat and create a more laminar flow, bringing the reynoulds number down through this stage. Does anyone know the displacement for 1 revolution of the G-charger? What is the efficiency like in terms of boosting the displaced air to a higher pressure? A nicely machined unit. Will install this weekend and see if I can note any difference.

BBM claim it does all this? Now includes CNC machined knife edged ribs. The first and original RSR billet g-lader outlet kit. The BBM RSR outlet has far less back pressure restriction than the Rallye Golf adapter outlet. Increases boost pressure with a quicker boost build rate. A solid torque and power increase from the very low rpm's to redline. Sharper throttle response without the damping effect of the factory silencer box. Crisper G-Lader sound, minimizes droning without additional interior noise. A direct replacement for the leak-prone plastic silencer box outlet. Complete kit bolts onto any G60 G-Lader without modifications. CNC machined billet from 6061-T6 aluminum for a perfect fit. Optional port-matched G-Lader outlet housing, please see RS/RSR outlet outlet porting option link below. Is the G-WERKS unit the same?

I'm in West Calder. Got a G60 and a 16V :D

Hi, I am thinking about this RSR outlet and wondered - Does anyone have any data to prove the difference this makes as a replacement for the silencer box? Some figures or graphs proving a quicker boost build up would be great. Cheers.

Hi, May be worth replacing the wrist pins. They are higly stressed. Coincidently I am refurbishing an old G60 engine at the moment.