Richardshoes

my ex has my daughter and I am contemplating killing myself.

Hi mate. If the pulley has been chaged for something aftermarket then there may be no mark. However thats a big belt that drives the ancilliry equipment you must have a special set up for the alternator too. no matter though,,,,,, all is not lost. Timing the flywheel and cam gear is all thats required. The flywheel marks represent the relative postions of piston 1.... ie 6 before or TDC. Now if the cam lobes for cylinder one are giving you the vickys at TDC then you know the games in your favour. Thing like a SOHC engine and it's easy. Two Cams for each cylinder. Where should these bad boys point when the pistons at tdc? V Excuse my french.... I've been drinking... Good luck. G60 is a cult classic. You have made the right choice in choosing to buy this car regardless of price! I have a 3D solidworks model of the G-Lader. I even put it through Cosmos and Abaquas..... It's a thing of beauty.

hi dude. Time it by ear? :cuckoo: Which timing light did you buy? I use the Gunson advance timing light... it's quite nice. Number 1 plug will be the one nearest the timing belt. On the flywheel will be two marks - one will have a straight line and a 0 - this is TDC. The other will just be a line - this is 6DEG BTDC. Engine temp = min 80deg blue temp sender disconnected. (Check timing at 2000 and 2500) Fit inductive pick up to HT lead 1 - away from any other leads that could interfere with pick up. Attach +- connections Remove bung from bell housing in gear box Assuming you have an advance light - just set it at zero and time to the 6DEGBTDC mark this will yield correct timing... alternatively time to TDC mark and rotate setting of light to 6degBTDC. If the timing is out you'll need to loosen the Distributor clamp... then just rotate with one hand while shining your light at the flywheel until desired setting is reached. Party on!

B 000 750 M3 is the part code for VW fluid. Cheers

Different part codes on etka. Not too sure what is actually different.... perhaps more precious metals on the VR due to 6cylinders

http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthre ... ansion+cap

etka lists two different part codes. plus there aint no balance weight on vr6 subframes.

Hi. Since you've just bought it... i'd suggest starting from the start.... Check static timing, followed by ignition timing, set idle speed to correct value. stop and start engine under different temp conditions and see if it's ok.... if not then move on to other things. Cheers.

Hi. I have a good clean degreased G60 bottom end sitting in my garage. Yours for £250

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-g60-injectors- ... 7C294%3A50

Aim the strobe at the flywheel. Take the pastic bung out of the bellhousing on the gearbox. This will expose the flywheel. Check ignition timing with oil temp Note - there will be two lines on the flywheel - one for TDC and one for 6degBTDC.

Hi. Does anyone know if the KR 16V cylinder head fits directly onto a PG G60 block? Cheers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5TqDyegT-k&NR=1

Try listening to the mounting bolt that holds the tensioner on. Done the tappets two months back, and fitted a new GSF tensioner..... After 5 weeks running the thing sounded like it was going to explode. Fitted a VW tensioner today and the noise is gone! :gag: Guess what I'm saying is it's always best to opt for the genuine article.

Hi. Buy a mechanics stethascope... I find them great for isolating strange noises. I have a 92 G60 with a bad knock.... Used my stethascope on it and I now know that I have conrod bearing problems without taking the engine apart. :( eBay sell them for like £3

20Nm is correct

Yes, but it also knocks aboves 90deg. It does it regardless of temp.

Yes there is a knock sensor on the G60. Retarding the timing would have no impact on bearing related issues though. I should note that the knock occurs at low rpm. If I have the engine on a hill and go to take off, it will knock heavily until rpm picks up. This suggests to me that it balances itself out at higher rpm with the same load, or there is simply not enough lubrication at low rpm/high load condition. I had a look at the engine mounts, they seem fine, but it might be worth while taking a closer look. Any other ideas??? :scratch:

Hi. When I have the engine under load (going up a hill from stand still) there is a deep knocking. Any suggestions what this might be? Thinking it is possibly main bearings, maybe someone on here has experienced a similar issue. Thanks.

Thanks for the help. I had hoped to build the unit myself.... the only issue is I'm at a loss as to how I can achieve dynamic balancing by myself, therefore I think I would need to talk to impulse or someone like them. Are they expensive?

Hi mate. I have one and pay £198 per year fully comp with esure and I'm 29. I spend most weekends messing with it. If your willing to learn about the cars then they are great fun to drive and work on imo. Economy is not too bad in mine I get 34mpg motorway and on average 25mpg around town. I also have a 16v but it's sorn at the moment so couldn't compare prices. Cheers.

Out of interest Junkie who lightened and balanced your crank/flywheel?

Here is a pic of the block. I'll post a before and after picture of whenI received it and when I had finished cycling it through the de-ruster and jet spray.

Hi Guys, I have a G60 and a 1.8 16V Corrado. I recently bought a PG engine block of ebay, with 81mm bores. My plan is to build a G60 unit for transplant. I have a few questions that hopefully you guys can help with. 1. How did your new set up work out. Were you happy with it? 2. Did you balance the engine? say the crank and flywheel and match the con-rods and pistons for mass? 3. When the re-bore was done did you get a final hone to finish the bores? Thanks for any ideas or help. Chris

I think your tappets are worn.