Jump to content

Dave.Warlord

Members
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

Everything posted by Dave.Warlord

  1. Yeah bare metal. No base coat. just a few layers of Halfords own brand High temp engine paint.
  2. No soz. I only have a piccy of the tranny before paint. To prep it for paint though I used about 4 cans of brake cleaner and a toothbrush size wire brush. Just used the wire brush to remove the loose rust and the brake cleaner gets rid of and oil and grease.
  3. Using 300 degree engine paint and just smooth hammerite on the tranny. On closer inspection today the subframe looks a bit thin and weak around the front wishbone mounts. Also a few cracks. I'm scared if I try to weld it I'm just gonna blow more holes in it. I think I may have to see if I can get a second hand one...... Anyone??
  4. Did a 15 hour stint today. Mainly just cleaning and painting. Still waiting for my new pistons to arrive. The head's snapped off both the front wishbone bolts. One I can live with but two is takin the pi$$. I had them soaked in penetrating fluid over night as well. Not looking forward to tryin to sort them out. The plan was to have tomorrow off as I cant start putting the car back together untill i get the rear crossmember powder coated as its the first item to refit. Bugger.... bang goes my lie in :censored: ... but at least my bulkhead is gleaming :D
  5. Mawrick do ur front wheels catch the arches. What size tyres u using. I'd like to drop mine another 1/2 inch
  6. I'd love to mate but where do you stop. Just gonna powdercoat what I can and get the hamerite out for now. I gotta spare head and charger which I'm in the process of porting (Or I was before this all started :bonk: ) Plan is to get another bottom end and build a proper engine out of the car. One for the week and one for sunday best :wink: Also bought a Saab 9000 intercooler and am in the process of having some plates lazer cut to make a custom charger outlet so I can run the boost pipes where I want to. Thinking of putting an oil cooler in the wing where the original intercooler was.
  7. Seems you have described the exact problem i had a week ago. If you still can't sort it and your car feels a bit flat do a compression test cos I have a cracked piston
  8. Glad its not just me. I'm getting really anal though. Got all the nuts and bolts labeled in bags ready to go to my local fasteners company to change them all for stainless and another box of parts ready to go to work to be powder coated on tuesday. Thinking of maybe getting a Mk 4 golf to tat about in so I don't have to drive my C in the rain and get it all dirty
  9. Well what started out as a days work has turned into an epic. Started with a cracked piston last weekend and while waiting for my replacement to arrive I took a few bits off to have powder coated or polished. Then a few more, and a few more. Got to the point in the end where I just thought f*** it I've got this far, may as well go all the way. I'm gonna get rid of all the dirty nasty oily stuff under the bonnet. Heres my progress so far.
  10. I used to have a Uno turbo when I was a kid and had the same prob (Runnin way to much boost :wink: ). I just went down to my local scrappy and ripped some of the corrugated plastic heater ducting from behind the dash of some old bone. Worked a treat
  11. Quick fix would be some ducting from underneath to blast some cold air up there. At least until you get your new bonnet
  12. Also gonna change the chargers little timing belt. Is there any special way or do you just pull it off and put the new one on?
  13. Couldn't find any cheaper. These were the only second hand ones I could find. VW wanted £170 each :lol: When I get them I'm usure whether to just change the one or all four. When its back together though think I'm gonna get the injectors and the timing advance checked. If for nothing else for my own peace of mind. If it was running lean wouldn't it get really hot and that could cause the piston to crack? But common sense tells me if this is case that the piston wouldn't look as clean as it does and the bore is mint. I just dont wanna be having the same problem again as I dunno whats caused it. Unless its just one of those things :confused4: As said above rings were my first thought but I dunno if the middle ring thats broken in two was the cause of problem or was a result of it. I'm not a mechanic and don't profess to be one. I just like to av a go
  14. Just found a second hand set in the states for $70. I presume that aint a bad price
  15. Hi guys. I'm back again with more problems. You know how it is you fix one and another is round the corner. G60 developed a slight misfire on friday night. Checked the plugs and all checked out. Compression test later revealed only 45psi in the 4th chamber. Wet test gave me 120psi. Rings I thought... which seemed odd as I did the rings 2 months ago and have only just run it in. Stripped it down and......yes you guessed it.. Not good. Any idea where I can get a piston from anyone? Dunno what caused it as I aint really deathed my motor since the rings were done... a bit of fun but not exactly been bouncing on the limiter. A fueling problem perhaps??
  16. Before I fit my spare charger is there anything I should do first? Like lube or whatever. Its sat in the garage for a 2 years or so. Got it from a mate that wrecked his raylle 2k after a stage 4 rebuild and mine wants a rebuild so now its time to fit the baby
  17. Here is the insert from the GB Corrado club history page which is what perked my interest. The Car was launched to the world in 1988 although the first cars did not appear on UK garage forecourts until late 1989 in the form of the 1.8-16 valve. It was however the European and Canadian markets who were the first to be supplied with the new VW, the US didn't get their opportunity until the following year. A new model was introduced in 1991, the G60 , with a supercharged 1.8ltr 8 valve engine and the availability of a 4 speed automatic gearbox. In 1992 a number of transformations took place, early in the year the seven slat grill was replaced with a four slat version and the 1.8-16v was replaced by the 2.0-16v. The front wings were widened slightly, the bonnet grew a "bulge" in the middle & the bumper design was altered. In October 1992 the VR6 arrived with a 2.9ltr V6 engine which VW claimed could reach 0-60 in 6.4 seconds. This model was brought in as a replacement to the G60 which was gradually phased out during the year. This just said to me they didn't produce them for that long
  18. Anyone got any idea? I know there was about 97500 total Corrado's but I believe they only made the G60 from April 91 to September 92 apart from the special order left hookers
  19. Right o.... Suppose i'll have to get my wallet out for the old girl.........AGAIN!!! Just checking out the recent repair jobs on the nugget. Sounds like my life mate no sooner as you fix one job, two more apear. Did you get the new pulley wheels and that from the dealer? And whats the gearbox weight all about? Nice 1 Yan Cheers
  20. Hi, After suffering from the old G60 crank pulley problem i changed the pulley and all seemed fine. My C then developed what can only be described as a chirping type squeak coming from the charger belt when idleing or driving. As far as I could tell it sounded like it was coming from the bottom pulley that bolts onto the outside of the crank pulley. A drop of WD on the belt confirmed the noise was coming from there as it stopped then resumed after about 5 minutes. I replaced the belt thinking mine was getting tired and it seemed to solve it. A week later and its started again. Only when its cold though. As soon as the cars done 5 miles or so it stops but I think is slowly getting worse and soon I will be back to it sounding like theres a rusty hamster wheel under the bonnet. Also now when you give it some toe I get a wierd noise coming from the belt side (as far as I can tell driving with my head out of the window) that I can only describe as a sort of vibration that sounds like grit being flicked round the wheelarch. Its only when you first accelerate hard and stops as you reach about 4500rpm. On closer inspection today i noticed that the serp belt isn't centralised on one of the plasic guide wheels. Its the one below the tensioner shocker (follow the belt clockwise from the crank pulley and its the first one) it sits about 3mm in from the engine side of the guide. As nothing else has been changed apart from the belt and the crank pulley could the new crank pulley be to wide which obviously spaces the charger belt pulley out as its bolted to it. Cheers for any advise offered Dave
  21. The front one that goes in horizontally from front of car towards the back. Near side. It was the first bolt I tried to undo :bonk:. Start as you mean to go on and all that. After this was reluctant to try anymore until its on the ramp with a weekend ahead of me Is there anything I should do in advance of taking the rack off? Or is it just unbolting it all and then refitting?
  22. Hi all, I was changing the wishbones today on my G60 and snapped the head clean off the front mount. I'm presuming i'm going to have to drop the cross member off to try to get the snapped bolt's shaft out. Can it be done without disturbing the steering rack? I presume there are others who have had the same problem. Any suggestions before i take my car apart.... again. God I love Corrados. Mine just hates me :(
  23. http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id=507 Thats where i had the pic from but i think the VW part no is 1H0615301A for the front and rears are 191615611C according to the vagcat site.
×
×
  • Create New...