jamiehol

Right after changing the Latency Timer VAG COM is now talking to the ABS ECU. Got the fault codes out had a number for Front wheel sensors but I am not too surprised as I have had the sensors disconnected recenetly and one was still unplugged when I ran VAG COM. Made sure the sensors were plugged in and cleare the codes. The only fault that comes bask is the following one: VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 1H0 907 379 E Component and/or Version: ABS/EDS TEVES 04 Software Coding: Work Shop Code: 1 Fault Found: 00280 - Differential Lock Valve 2 (N126) 35-00 - - Does that mean the Pump/valve block itself is dead ? Jamie.

Ah so its the port setting then rather than in Vag Com itself. Will give it a go tomorrow night and see how I get on.

Exactly where do you set that in Vag Com ?

Ever since I bought my 96 VR last year the ABS hasn't worked, but I want to sort it out before putting the car back on the road for the summer. I have tried scanning the car with VAG COM but I can't get it to communicate with the ABS comes up saying too many communication errors it will talk to the Engine ECU fine. So I suspect there is a problem with the ECU/Pump, I have found a post giving the resistance values for the valves on the pump I will try these out when it isn't rainning. As anyone else had a similar problem or got any suggestions on what else to check ? Also does anyone have any links to a good wiring diagram for the ABS system ? Jamie.

Just to close this one off thanks for the replies and reminding me about the thread the other week. Swapped on a spare crank sensor and it fired up first time :) So looks like that was the real fault all along but at leats I have a new ECU and fuel pump relay as well which can only be good given the tendancy for them to give up the ghost :).

Thanks for the replies, I'd missed half of them as I am not on here that much. Decided to try an fix this issue now as it seems to have gone from happenign occasionally to all the time. Since my orginal post I have swapped the ECU & Fuel Pump relay, as well as the ignition switch for a known working one. Will look at the CPS as the car hasn't got a hall sensor being a coil pack engine. I think i may have a spare CPS in the garage from a Golf I broke so will see how I get on.

Sorry about that, forgot about my post when the problem originally started and hadn't seen half the replies as I am not always on here.

Got an annoying fault with my VR6 It started out as an intermittent non starting fault in the summer, where it will crank over and the fuel pump relay will click, and will now just not start full stop. I will crank over and you can just hear the fuel pump relay clicking It an attempt to fix the intermittent issue it has had it has had the following. - New Fuel Pump Realy - ECU Realy - Ignition swithc swapped for a known working. Does anyone have any suggestions wht to try next or anyone had a similar porblem. Thanks Jamie.

They are available from VW, can't remember the part number, but will see if I can find it in my paperwork.

Thanks for the comments folks, it does scrub up well although the rear panel needs a bit of paint as previous owners have chipped the paint putting stuff in and out of the boot. I paid £700 and that was for the front bumper, bonnet, drivers side wing, blow in the stone chips of the frotn of the passenger wing as well as the drivers side sill where people have knocked it getting in and out.

Been lurking on here for a while now so thought I'd post some pics of my VR. After buying Raddo VR last year to use for track days with a mate I realised how much I missed my old Highline VR, wanting another I decided on Raddo for road use, so I put my mk2 Golf GTI up for sale and bought a nice black Raddo VR6 off ebay. The day I picked her up from south Wales: It need a few bits of paint so I left it at my folks house just oustdie Wolverhampton and got Base 21 in Rugely to paint the front end of it. Some pics of here in the sun after polishing her up with the UDM. A nice arty reflection shot with the cluds reflecting off the roof. Unfortunatley its currently in bits as the heater matrix has gone pop but she should be back on the road in the next couple of weeks.

The hoses that go to the radiatro are different between the Golf and the Corrado.

Yes the temps were higher with the oil cooler but the ambient temprature was a lot higher than the track days we did without it.

As a bit of a comparision when i went to the ring in my Golf VR I saw oil temps of upto 130 after a spirited lap. Also on my track VR Raddo I was seeing 120 degree ish oil temps in the winter at both Outlon and Snetterton this was without an external oil cooler, bank holiday Monday I was back at Snetterton but with an oil cooler fitted and we saw oil temps of upto 140 after a 20 minute tarck session, the ambient temprature was around 24 degrees.

My VR has devloped a non starting fault, it started about a month ago I was finding occasionally it wouldn't start, it would sit there cranking but wouldn't fire. I could get it to fire if i removed relay 109 and let it crank for a bit and reinsert relay 109 during cranking, a couple of weeks later it also started to feel really hesitant when cold unitl the water temp was around 70 to 80 degrees. However I came out of work today and it wouldn't fire it will sit there cranking but won't catch I have tried the trcik with relay 109 but that didn't have any affect, I can hear the fuel pump priming so I think that is ok. The car is currently in my work car park. Does anyone have any pointers or ideas of things to check or try.