jamiehol

Tim - thanks for that I'll take those discs makes finding a beam easier. Al thanks for the offer if I find one local to you. Jamie.

Hopefully some can help I am looking for a subframe with wispiness and ideally the ball joints still on it from a 5 stud car, and also a rear beam with a set of 5 stud discs. I only need them to move a shell around and get it on and off my trailer so condition of the discs and ball joints is unimportant. I am based in Ipswich Suffolk, but will be in the West mids/Staffordshire on the 15th/16th October visiting family. Thanks, Jamie.

Thanks is a bit more than ideally I would like to spend. What is the best price you could do for the shell with the wing, bumpers, and slam panel ?

Thanks how much for the shell with all the panels you list above ? Jamie ?

Thanks very interested don't suppose you have any pictures ? Also any of the panels left or have you sold them all? How soon do you need it moved as I would have to build a couple frames to bolt to the shell to get it on my trailer.

I am interested in the shell as I am licking for a shell to rebuild my track car into. Is there any rust on the shell in particular round the screen or on the rear panel ?

I would be interested in a set of these.

So I managed to remove the fuel pump this evening, I noticed that the pump itself is in the centre of a larger cylinder I assume the alrger cylinder is a swirl pot but would be nice if someone could confirm that. The pump at the top appeared to be attached to the larger cylinder via a rubber membrane and it also appears at some point in the past it was attached in a similar manner at the bottom however the rubber at the bottom is perished. If the large tube is a swirl pot then I assume the rubber seals are quite important, and would expect whay sometimes when the fuel gets to around a quarter of a tank it stutters when going hard round a corner, but i can't see hwo it affects it when the engine is hot at idle. Any confiramtion of my points or thoughts would be good, or any other things to check as to why when the engine and the ambient temprature is hot the car won't idle.

I have got an annoying issue with my VR6 track car, when the car has come in after a session and it is hot, if left to idle aftre a couple of minutes it starts to stutter and will die if you try opening the throttle it makes no difference. It has been like this on and off for a while now, so far I have replaced the rubber fules hoses to the fuel rail as someone had messed with the rubber hose to rigid line connections and the one was loose so replaced the hose and some proper fuel hose clips. i also replaced the fuel filter at the same time. One thing I noted today is that the fuel pump does seem a little noisy, now the pump, injectors and FPR are teh only things I haven't touched as yet but I think I may get the pump out and may be replace it as after all it has done 152k. Also does anyone know which connection is feed and return on the fuel rail. Thanks, Jamie.

Yeah I had tried Green Stuff and Red Stuff in an old Highline VR6 and the Red stuff were ok on the road but can imagine they wouldn't have lived up to track use. EBC have just launched some new pads whihc are supposed to have a slightly better endurance than Yellow Stuffs will see what the reports of them are like. But think the next set of pads will be a set of DS2500. Thanks for all the postive comments guys, will dig out some pics of the early track days I did in here.

Actually you just reminded me that I missed something off the list of midifications which is the oil cooler and cooling has been aided with the extra holes in the bumper which had made a difference yesterday on track. Funny you should say about EBC pads I've had them on other road cars in the past and they have been ok, this one is currnetly running Yellow stuff pads on the front and they are ok, they were mainly used as my mate gets a deecnt discout from EBC. I may try something different this year though. Interior wise, will try to get some pictures up, but going to leave the dash in, although the centre console may get a bit more butchered to fit some more dials and fan switches. Currently looking at cages as well either from Custom Cages or Protection and Performance.

Thought it about time I started a thread for my track VR6 Raddo. Originally bought this Aqua Blue version off here in 2008 for £1000 with a mate as spares or repair., although bought my mate out at the start of this year. It needed the heater matrix doing, as well as the rear calipers replacing as they were both seized. Did also have some damage to the passenger side wing and the paint on the pasenger door was a bit dodgy. The real appeal was that it came with a new heater matrix, set of 288m front discs and calipers, as well as replacment rear calipers, discs and wheel bearings. So it was a nice easy fix to use and have some fun with rather than break it. Here is a picture of in its current guise. Since getting it in 2008 we fitted the brakes as well as the heater matrix. I managed to pick up a better passneger wing but still need a decent one, and finally tidied up the bodywork up with a couple of replacment doors. Track day wise managed to get a few days done over the last couple of years although was always diffcult with shared ownership tryign to find days that fitted in especially as my mate Marshalls a lot at Snetterton. In terms of acr development. Late 2008 before our first track day, managed to get a second hand set of boge dampers and lowering springs, also removed the rear seats, boot carpet, and parcel shelf. 2009 saw it gain a set of 16inch OZ Super Ts, as well as the removal of the parcel shelf supports, rear door cards, remaning bits of carpet in boot, and trim round gearstick and handbrake. 2010 saw most of the developmenst to date, starting with the removal all the carpet and sound deading to allow some bucket seats and hanresses to fitted. Removed the front door cards to replace with some aluminum, at the same time removed all the central locking and one touch window setups, get the electric windows but with just basic switches. At the same time managed to pick up some Eibach Anti Roll Bars, and some coilovers. 2011 So far not much development has happened, although did try and fit a lower final drive gearbox but it has got some issues with 1st gear so thats currently out awaiting inspection.

Just digging this thread up again as I need to do the head gasket on my road going VR and I managed to find the part number for the metal headgasket. For referance the part number for the metal headgasket is 021 103 383 N

I am interested as need to replace a couple of hoses on my road use Rado VR6 so getting a complete set of uprated ones seems like a good idea.

Just put a new to the car gearbox in my track VR6, to benefit from a lower final drive. However got a bit of problem, if I select 1st gear it enages and you get drive through the wheels but you get a horrible grinding noise like the mesh isn't quite right. I intially thought it might be the cable adjustment but i have tried adjusting it and it made no difference, I even disconnected the cables and just tried engaging the gears manually using the shift tower but I still get the same issue. All the other gears including reverse work perfectly. Any one got any ideas or suggestions?

Unfortunatley not got nay pics of the journey but will put some up of the racing action in the next couple of days.

About time I updated this thread, so at the end of last year the car developed an intermitent starting fault whihc after replacingthe ECU & Fuel pump relays turned out to be the crank sensor, that combined with needing to replace the heater matrix meant it got took off the road from last October. So after sorting the heater matix and fixing the oil pressure warning light which had never worked since I had bought the car it eventually got an MOT and was back on the road in June. At whihc point I noticed the Rad elbow was leaking whihc resulted in tah being replaced along with the rad itself as the bolts were sezied, also replaced the fan switch at the same time. About this time I got the offer of some tickets for Le Mans classic from a mate at work who was going over with his TVR and a couple of mates one with a TVR and a Honda NSX. So all booked up and ready to go, two days before I was due to go the car sprung an oil leak from one of the oil pressure sensor, and the brakes feeling naff, so the morning of the departure for Le Mans, I eneded up swapping teh fornt discs and pads as well as the oil pressure sesnor. The journey to Le Mans was largely good although queuing to get in the camp site one of teh water hoses went and I eneded up wiring in a temporary fan bypass switch in the camp site, and when I got replacing the water pump as well as teh expansion tank and cap. Annyingly the car still seems to be using a little bit of water so I may well end up doing the headgasket over winter. Will try and get some up to date pictures up over the next couple of weeks as it is currently wearing 6 spoke TT wheels. The track raddo will be at Cadwell on the 28th October so if anyone is there and sees a Blue VR6 Raddo come say hi.

Right got an issue with my VR, for some reason and I can't work out where it is going, it is using water but is not overheating according to the gauge. If sat in traffic or over about a 300 mile journey it will get through enough water to get from max to min. The issue of using water really became apparant on a trip to Classic Le Mans this year, where sat in traffic trying to get into the camp site, I could smell coolant and it was close to 110 on the gauge, the ambient temprature was around 30. I stopped the engine and got out and noticed some steam coming out from under the bonnet which was from a slight split on the coolant house to the back of the head. I got the car into the campsite and let it cool down and then cut the hose down and re attached it. I had notice on the way down when I stopped for fuel that there was a bit of water around the expansion tank, which was the original and at 15 years old perhaps a bit tired, on the way back from Le Mans it was largely ok although it used a bit of water but that appeared to be the expansion tank leak getting worse. On getting back from Le Mans I replaced the expansion tank and cap with genuine VAG ones, but the car is still using water. I noticed a very small amount of coolant under the water pump the other week so am just replacing that at the minute, however I am bit concerned as the other day I topped the water up, but even though the car had been standing overnight and was cold, as soon as i took the expansion tank cap off the coolant system was still under some pressure which seems worng. Here is how the coolant system stand at the minute: -Heater Matrix replaced Winter 09 - due to pipe ends going brittle. -Radiator Elbow replaced May 2010, Radiator and rad swithc also changed at the same time, due to one of the elbow bolts siezing up. - Expansion tank & cap replaced July 2010 -just replacing Water pump - No visibile leaks around crack pipe of thermostat housing. So is the fact that the coolant systme is still under pressure when cold soemthing I should worry about and is the nagging feeling I've got that the headgasket is tired or worse still the head itself the reason I am loosing water ? Appreciate this is long post but peoples thoughts and views are very much welcomed.

Just to cloe this off, due to ECP and GSF not getting the new sensor in for Saturday and with work getting in the way I didn't get chance to replace it before the MOT retest today. However good news the MOT passed, my tester wasn't quite so busy today so had a quick look and noticed a tiny leak between the exhaust manifold and downpipe a bit of exhaust paste and it passed. I had noticed a hissing near the throttle body but it sounded like it was coming from the ISV, but it was obviously the manifold to down piep joint. Will get some new gaskets when I get chance to affect a proper repair. Thanks for all the suggestions

I will bear that in mind, the car came with a generic cone filter, and that was fitted for the last MOT when I didn't have an issue with emissions. My track car has the standrad air box so I can always nick that for a test.

As far as I know it is the orginal lambda sensor from 1996 so I think it is worth swapping it out, its difficult to gauge fuel consumption as the car has been off the road since the new year it certianley smelt rich if you know what i mean when started from cold. Looking at the temp being reported in Vag Com to that reported by the dash gauge they both seem about the same so I think that is ok. I think a mate has a spare cat of a VR that I could try if it is needed. Will rpeort back how I get on over the weekend.

Well I have just had a quick look at the car. Couple of things that stand out, there is a slight blow at the rear of the cuit case silencer I could see that if the air leak was before the cat or lambda it could affect the emissions but after it surely it shouldn't have a massive impact. Also on a quick scan with VAG COm I had a couple of faults for the injectors and one for the immobiliser but there was also one mroe importantly for the 02 sensor being open circuit, I cleared the fault and tried the measureing blocks and the lambda satyed at 1 but the fault code hasn't come back. So I guess my next port fo call has to be testing the sensor ? or does it sound like I am barking up the wrong tree.

I've had my VR Raddo in for its MOT and its failed on a couple of things, one flexi brake pipe which is a nice easy fix, but more worringly I have the following fail. "Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive" Annoyingly I don't have the emissions print out to see exactly what was what but then I haven't been charged for the failed MOT so I can't compain too much. I will do some google research as well but does anyone have any Raddo specific causes for this fail. Thanks, Jamie.

Not on a VR but got a fully sequential LPG system on my daily 4.6 V8 Range Rover, cost approx £1700 to have it fitted and LPG at my local Morrisions is running at 59.9p a litre at the minute. When you take into account the cost differnance etc it works out to a Petrol Equivialnt 32 mpg in my Range Rover. For me it was certainly worth it and the CO2 is a lot lower on LPG than Petrol.

I am pretty sure the gasket between the two bits of the Shrick as unique to that, I know a mate was given a template of the gasket when he bought a manifold.