bigray

Has anyone had a different problem with the spoiler? Mine goes up fine, when it comes down, it blows the fuse halfway. I stripped the bootlid down, removed, cleaned and lubed, refitted. All works fine until i put one specific earth lead onto the earth block on the bracket. Then itl blow the fuse everytime. Not sure what the earth is for but it is slightly thicker then the others so was thinking rear screen? With earth disconnected the spoiler goes up and down fine. Any help appreciated :salute:

Cheers for the pics, i was gunna investigat it at some point over the weekend, now i know where to start! Did my head in for a bit, why would they put the active spoiler on the same fuse as the dash VDO, just asking for trouble. My spoiler goes up fine on the switch and at 45mph, as soon as it goes down, gets about an inch from the bottom and blows fuse. Quit annoying as i cant see how fast im going, if the cars overheating............ Sure a good clean out will sort it. Cheers :salute:

Sorted, removed the valves at lunchtime, used air lift on it, ran out of shop, heat coming through straight away. Sweet :salute:

Fairdoos, im a panel beater so do stuff like that all day long, never heard of TIG used on steel, Im guessing as its such a pain in the arse to master and its quicker to use MIG. Good luck with it :salute:

Dunno wot temps they need to be on, we just turn the temp setting thing to maximum and if its too hot, turn it down. Better to be able to turn it down then not to be able to turn it up! :salute:

TIG is usually used on aluminium as this has a much lower melting point then steel. Plus its an absolute :censored: to do. Never heard of steel being TIG'd, always MIG or gas. :salute:

Why are you TIG welding it? :salute:

The rod is the strip of same plastic you push into the gap, no point in going and buying rods of the correct plastic, use the doner bumper and just cut thin strips, clean paint from it and use as a rod. Yeah you need to heat the area ur welding so all three bits melt together basically :salute:

Try to make sure the plastic you use to fill the gap is exactly the same as the plastic you weld it to. There is a specalist tool and process, but thats boring and you wont have access to it. Basically use a hot air gun with a thin end attatched to it (if not, just be careful of surrounding area when using heat) Clean paint from edges to be joined, sand a 45degree angle onto side to be joined, clamp in place when happy with position, use a strip of same plastic and melt it into the 45degree angle, so it melts to both the doner piece and the bumper and fills the gap so its flush. Itl have to have a coat or two of filler anyway :salute:

Went into work earlier, drained coolant system, waited till stone cold, followed the instructions on the airlift, (amazing bit of kit, espescially if u dont have exhaust extractors or working on a diesel!!!) Did it in 5 mins if that, run it up and theres a massive airlock the other side of the frigging valves. Went to vw, ordered feed and return, gunna get rid of valves and repeat, should be sorted then. Got the majority of the dash out so may just take the remainder out and give as much of the heater box a blowing/hoover as possible. Before i changed the matrix, it used to literally melt my face, i had to have the window open a crack in winter, even with it turned off. Cant wait to be warm in my car after the gym My advice is, if uv fitted a new matrix, get rid of those :censored: valves. Theyv given me nothing but grief. :salute:

91 j plate, no abs :salute:

Thaught that myself, gunna ring up n find out the year of manafacture of my matrix, if i can, get rid of the valves, pressure test type thing it and then see how that works. Its gotta be those stupied :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored: valves. Took them off, checked they werent jammed up, blew air thru them, run water, work fine, even getting the car run up, theres hot water going thru them, just not from matrix to car. Flaps working on box etc. This is the third successive weekend iv titted round with it, starting to seriously annoy me. Something that shouldv been a relatively simple job has turned into a nightmare. Il keep you posted :salute:

The wire is better for panels your replacing or dont need to worry about painting as it 90% of the time will scratch a surface sumwhere, plus ideally you need two people to use it without struggling like a d**k.

Got one off the snap on man today, woo hoo, Empty the system, push valve bit into expansion tank, connect air line to airline bit, put other pipe into coolant ur replacing, press switch, the air is pumped out of system till its at certain no. vacum, make sure it has no leaks by leaving for 20 secs, slowly turn the valve on coolant pipe, the coolant is drawn into the system and theoretically there is no air and the oolant should fill to the cold level mark............ Well everything else has gone wrong with the job so far, i can only laugh. If that doesnt work im gunna get new pipes and get rid of valves as the matrix shud b man enough to take it if its new? :salute:

Is it just me or does that look and sound like a compression tester? :? Gunna try and get rid of valves first and see if that cures it, if not im gunna do a basil fawlty on it, with a pick axe :salute: