james_c2

found a couple of pics from the end of the summer of my raddo and ghia excuse the arch gap on the back its in travel mode as they were taken a couple of days after I moved back from cornwall for uni

Got the raddo though its mot yesterday without having to do anywork on it. Im amazed as my others all failed first time on stupid things The only advisors it got were the following: car excessivly low headlights not in good working order (they even had new bulbs, shows how crap raddos lights are exhaust noisey exhaust rubbers slightly deteriorated Not bad for a 19year old daily driver. Well thats one less thing to worry about for a year

yup my first corrado, well was a few weeks later when i regretted it as I started noticing things. ended up keeping it for 6 months then replacing it with another red valver

cheers for the comments got the stance to pretty much how i want it untill i get hold of some camber shims and 50mm splitter as want to drop the front slightly next up is a decent detail and paint correction/repair

new wheels 8+9j porshe d90s will get some better pics once the 20mm spacers have arrived so i can get the stance right

no worries, can answer some of the questions, yup you can use and i would recomend the twin fan vr rad as my vr got a little warm as standard anyway will have to use vr box as different bellhousing from what i gather vr subframe would have to be used or one of those mk2 vr solid mounts could most likely be used as valver subframe is simlar to golf 2 also i would either use the vr fuel pump or put a fpr on as valvers run at quite high pressure

ye im at cov uni, but doing my 3rd year in motorsport and powertrain engineering

body work is mint + want more power so a vr conversion seems a more cost effective way than throwing money at a valver engine dont want to swap the brakes atm as if do it means having to get new adaptors for the wheels, plus ive got some 4pot brembos going on once ive finnished the cad drawing for the carriers

next month im planning on putting a vr engine in my valver want to keep my 280mm 4x100 brakes for the moment so wont be going widetrack will i need the vr front and back subframes to fit the engine??? cheers james

this is raddo no4 and one of the more complete ive owned as no interior trim missing and still has a unopened first aid kit in place quick spec miltec manifold scorpian 2 box system weitec coilovers with hot tuning springs (as i broke one of the weitec springs after hitting a huge pothole in my old golf) all red(ish) rears de wipered rear 16" fox alloys vibe/jbl/sony sounds atm im in the process of sorting out some new wheels and my spare interior is being retrimmed as we speak ive nearly finnished the frame to sit ourond the sub box and then the jbl amp will be relocated behind it to hide it with the vibe amp, then cd changer in place of the jbl amp car sits about 15mm lower now the coilys have settled. centre of the splitter is roughly the height of a raddo key on its side

since ive had this raddo ive had a pretty big problem of it blowing the fuel pump fuse. sometimes can go 500miles without blowing, sometimes 1mile had it go at plymfest and every time the car started it would blow straight away. changed fuse and 3 days later drove 140miles without blowing changed the relay, filter and pump looks new, before i changed the filter it was pulling 16a when running warmish, now seems to be pulling about 4a when its running car drives perfectly fine over last couple of days its been harder to start, but has been sitting for about a month while i was away also when sometimes when its cranking over the rev counter starts acting irratic untill it starts went to start it earlier and took a while, went to start then died, looked at the fuse and it had melted it. any ideas? could it be the warm up regulators fooked or fusebox and doesnt seem to be on the fuelpump side of things. any help would be great before i change fusebox or hand to garage as its driving me insane

getting rid of the rear wiper some time this week, what size grommet do i need to fill the whole? cheers james

on my corrado since ive had it i havnt been able to get the mfa, water temp gauge or full beam led to work is there a commen fuse, earth or positive they all share that cause them all to not work or is it a case of duff clocks?? any ideas how to sort them bar replacing clocks as dont like not being able to keep an eye on engine fluid temps also water temp warning light started flashing straight after start up for the last few days but randomly stopped earlier, not sure if this shows dodgy connection to the clocks?

went to go for a drive last night and just after i started my engine (about 20secs or so) the water temp light above the gauge started flashing, started it this morning and same thing again i take it this is prob down to dodgy sensor in expansion tank? also noticed the brown wire from the sensor had worn thu and touching the coil, ive re wrapped this, is there anykind of inline fuse that could of blown because of this??? cheers james

few pics of old and new kerchers now fitted there 16x9s running 205/40/16 and suprisingly arnt rubbing atall on the front just waiting for the new topmounts to arrive so can fit the coils to sort the stance out once the coils are on im looking at fitting some 10mm spacers and camber shims to bring the wheel out more slightly as they seem more tucked than the fronts

ye was happy with it, feels a bit boaty compared to my old c but once the h+rs are on that should sort that out mechanicly wise its sound, only thing i can see going is the tank pump as its starting to buz slightly on start up as for the interior iirc its the late valvers that have the flat base rear seat plan for this is to get it looking as mint as poss and sell it in a few weeks as off 2 work in france for 5 months and want a vr for my daily when i get back.

oops meant 2008 with the tax strut brace is only off for the mo as had it off to change the brake fluid, will be back on the car this weekend soz

picked up another raddo valver at auction the other week for not much more than scrap value. brought it with suposidly no mot, tax, history and shot brakes came with vr interior, spax adjustable 60-40 lowering kit, kahn replica 17s, full stanless system, k+n pannel filter, new sony hu and infinity speakers allround one looking through the car found a mot cetificate untill jan 09, and tax disk untill october 09 and the service book with loads of history result. after changing brake fuid as it was filthy and brakes bled brakes were working quick few pics of how it looked when i got it had the day of today so set about de barrying it so went and got new wipers and got rid of the poopty stickers and chrome 16v badges also tcut it, even though i think it needs to be mopped as bonnet and roof still faded, but ran out of g10 and g30 cutting compounds virtully mint condition late vr interior genuine 97k on the clocks so very low milage for the age this weekends jobs are to respray the bumpers and rear pannel below tailgate, fit a new vw badge on the back and either spray wheels black or fit my h+r coils and kerchers cleanish engine bay with 50mm inlet mani not bad for £300

no idea what cond there in as never looked, has no problem starting though got leads + plugs coming tomorrow so hoping that will solve it, even though it doesnt seem to be missing on just one cylinder which would defenently show that one of the leads/plugs was solely causing the problem

recently my raddo has been missing a little for the first min or so just after the cars been started but as soon but then would drive fine untill friday drove from home to worcester, shut the car off for 10 mins as i was waiting to meet a mate and soon after setting off again it started missing really badly, and same the day after on the way home plugs are a little oily on the threads due to the rocker cover gasket going but other wise seem fine did a compression test just over a week ago and came out with 145, 145, 135, 145 so seems ok as there all within 1bar of each other just pulled each lead out seperatly and none seem to run worse than others when running on 3 when on idle if it is reved up slowly it does not miss, its only when its reved with the pedal more than 1\3 down any ideas still waiting for new leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotar arm but what could it be bar one of the leads or caps causing one of the leads to ark? cheers james

pushed the black bit in today to see if when the spolier went up and down when driving, noticed as soon as i started the car the spolier raised, so does this mean the control module has gone?? when winding it up and down manually it goes up smooth, same when it raises automaticly/of the switch

cool, cheers for that going to see if when pressing the switch to put the spoiler down sends any current to the motor, hopefully that should help narrow down what it could be

recently fitted a new spoiler mech and motor as the original was broke spoiler goes up fine on the button, but wont come down also not 100% sure it was allways going up automaticly anyideas, could it be the spoiler control module needs replacing? should the spoiler be able to be dropped by the switch? cheers james

looking at getting a bit more power out of my corrado without spending loads as its only meant to be a temp daily untill i get the rest of the money for a g60 looking into using my spare exhaust cam as the inlet cam, what mods are needed to carry this out?? also what kind of power would be expected or a kr with 50mm inlet mani, wur mod, k+n pannel filter and cam mod cheers james

ah cool cheers for that, really appreciate it would explain why it blows fuses so easily, will put a 15amp one in 2moz