james_c2

Yes it was me, na the proper engine is still in bits as it needs a fair amount of expensive parts brought before I can rebuild it and all my money atm has to go on boring things. Its running a slightly modified 9a I built from spares I had sitting about for the time being.

Cheers for the comments, Hopefully next time its out next summer it should be looking a fair bit different depending on money and time once im back from France. The Ghia is my main toy but doesn't get driven much due to getting 10mpg because of how thirsty the twin 48's are I used Simonez cans for this, mainly for the reason there cheap and the respray is only a temp job. I've used montana gold cans before and they were nice to use and come in loads of different matt colours. As for advise on using cans, its pretty much the same as any paint work being its all in the prep work, make sure the car is sufficiently rubbed down with the right grade paper, taped up well and cleaned before you paint and this will make the finish alot better. Also keep the can parallel with the car when applying the paint to ensure is going on even and multiple light coats are better than one or two heavy coats of paint.

last few pics of the corrado and ghia before they go away for the winter at the end of the month

looks sweet, the artecs will finish it off nicely

The car was painted by myself with rattle cans, I think next time I do it ill do it using a gun as using cans was loads more hassle. But cost £17 to do so thats why I went this route even tho I have the equipment to do it properly Ill have to pop down soon, a few of my mates are at Falmouth uni so keep meaning to go over. Ive got about 5-6mm to play with untill the tyre hits the arch when steering, only way I could get it any lower without further arch mods would be higher offset wheels or 15s

Cheers for the comment Yup I'm from Newquay. There seems to be a few c's dotted about the town thinking about bringing the front end down a few mm as feel it needs a bit of rake and I can get over the speed bumps on the way to my house with not much subframe scrapage

After being of the road due to engine failure and paint damage for most of the summer its back This will be its current look for the next 8 weeks or so untill it goes back into storage due to me moving back to France for the winter If the weathers stays good I'll be heading down the road to Fistral beach to get a few nice photos of it

Think that was me was me if it was last Monday, were you in a black Ibiza? First spot on here I think if so

front bumper nearly done, excuse the crap primer, its just there to make it easier to check its all flat + was still wet when pic taken giving it to the old man to finish it now as hes alot better at the finishing aspect of bodywork than me as I want it perfectly flat

215/35/16s, dont have a problem now the arches have been rolled and its quite abit lower on the rear now. the tyre hits the body abit on big bumps but doesnt cause any damage due to hitting a smooth surface Tyres are pretty cut though from when they were on before I rolled the arches

pretty much for the last 12 years or so, my parents used to trade at the shows, even now theyve stopped I still end up going to a fair few air cooled shows over the year

yup if it was in the trade area it was mine hopefully should look loads better come bvf time or even plymfest if everything falls into line as planned

Now ive finally finished uni the Raddos finaly getting some attention from monday the cars going of the road for the rest of the month and some pretty big changes are happening Recived my new front bumper today and started smoothing it. It needs a skim but should be ready for paint tomorrow Watch this space over the next few weeks

Ive got a few gauges coming to fit in the c to keep an eye on what the engine im buiding is doing (oil temp, pressure, boost and poss air-fuel if i go wideband) I was thinking of fitting 2 in a a pillar mount (as mine are getting retrimmed but I think it looks a bit to boy racer) and two below the heater sliders So were have you fitted your gauges, ideally i want them so they can be easily viewed

porsche cup 3s if there 5x112 or 5x100 like the bottem ones could be there mille migia cup 3s if there genuine porsche theyll be round the et 50 mark and anywere between 17x7 + 17x10 depending on what car they come off the reps will be 17x7.5 et roughly 35

not sure if this should be in general or engine was using the flow bench today testing a couple of my heads: first up standard 9a head ported and polished kr head i did earler this year comparison these were done with the valves in so I recon the p+p worked well, especially for the inlet,going to do a bit more work on the exhaust round the throat/ were it changes direction as this is the biggest restriction in the head and i feel porting it futher could see it flowing 115-120cfm once done when comparing to other results, some showing high 140s + with standard valves have been flown with valves out, as a comparison a jawa race head with 55mm ports and 35mm inlet valves flows 160cfm @ 11mm lift and type 1 race heads using 44mm inlet valve flowed 110cfm @ 10mm will put some pics i took along the way when i find my phone lead from what i can see as standard the head will respond alot better to longer duration, lower lift cams, i.e kr over abf, especially the exhasust as it is flowing roughly 97% its potential at 8mm lift

top 3 vw coupes imo karmann ghia especially the lowlights corrado t34 razor edge

After having a good rumage through my warehouse I found a kstar Ecu With injector I think its the k star ks301 the wiring seems very self explanitory but were does the injector fit, I take it somewere near the wur????? has anyone got any fitting instructions or know were it fits also has anyone got the software for it??? I fancy fitting it to see if it makes any difference cheers james

because of a stupid problem when i first brought the c and being unlucky with water hoses ive had to call them out 5 times so far the main problem was due to a dodgy wur which seemed to short out randomly, literally the car could go for 500miles without it blowing a fuse callout 1- at plymfest, drove 200miles there fine, went to drive to mates in plymouth, drove a mile untill it blew and continued to blow as soon as car attemted to start callout2- way home, got back to bristol, was followed 2 junctions then oil warning light came on so car trailed home callout3- bottem hose split, temp repair done, hose replaced with new hose when back at parents callout 4- wur shorted and took out isv wire in process, had to phone them to borrow a soldering iron, ended up making a new loom callout 5- driving back to uni, another hose splits atleast now its got to the point were most of the mechanical parts of the car has been changed, when the new engine and brakes go in, over the last year the car would of had a new engine, gearbox, coolant hoses, brakes, bushes all round, engine mounts, exhasut, manifold, suspension, fuel pump, filter + fuel lines, battery, engine wiring loom and a heap of other parts ive forgot about and its all my work so i know the car inside out.

id go for 195/40s and a 35mm adaptor allround. im running this setup on my 8s upfront and the lip sits flush with the arch.

loads a space once the front passenger seat is all the way back my mates seem to think my bonnet was a good place as 2 of them pulled a fat bird on monday night for a laugh, now i have a massive fat print over my bonnet, couldnt of been to comfertable as its down 120mm and the bonnet is at knee level

im not sure, havnt reallt had chance to look, ill have a look in a bit clutch is fine, its something on the idle circuit casuing it cant wait now untill ive finished building my new engine to make the raddo quicker with hopefully less frombelms as this engine has quite a few problems with the mfi

over the last few days the raddo has aquired an annoying problem when i let of and put the clutch down the car wants to stall, it tries to idle at 300-350rpm then sometimes dies. On the way to the snowdome yesterday i noticed it was stinking of fuel when going through the roundabbouts as it was alot of stopping and starting. when the car is restarted it then idles fine and if i drive without using more than half throttle it tends not to do it. atm the wur is unplugged as the heater element is fooked, could this be causing it or is it going to be the icv?

few pics i found on e38 I think its time to give it a clean and get more work done on it as its starting to look a bit sorry for itself

running 35mm adaptors on the 8s up front