Timbo

Old: 10 100%[/*:m:14gq52na] 8 80%[/*:m:14gq52na] 6 60%[/*:m:14gq52na] 5 50%[/*:m:14gq52na] 4 40%[/*:m:14gq52na] 3 30%[/*:m:14gq52na] 2 20%[/*:m:14gq52na] 1 10%[/*:m:14gq52na] New: 25 100%[/*:m:14gq52na] 20 80%[/*:m:14gq52na] 15 60%[/*:m:14gq52na] 10 40%[/*:m:14gq52na] 8 32%[/*:m:14gq52na] 6 24%[/*:m:14gq52na] 5 20%[/*:m:14gq52na] 3 12%[/*:m:14gq52na] 2 8%[/*:m:14gq52na] 1 4%[/*:m:14gq52na] So at the "sharp end" it's effectively the same...

So I worked it out. I keep a can of oil in the boot for emergencies. I probably don't need to explain the rest, besides to say I'm going to be stripping the interior out next weekend and attacking it with a strong shampoo. :censored: :censored: :censored: Feel free to :lol: at my expense.

I had a little look in the dark and it seems dry. I actually replaced the PCV valve last year anyway so it would be quite soon for it to have failed already. Also I ran the engine for a few minutes while I was out there to see if I could see any evidence of drippage onto the manifold/downpipe and I couldn't see any. It was dark though so I'll have a closer look tomorrow. I did notice number 2 HT lead arcing onto the block where it goes into the coil pack though :roll:.

I've got an unexplained odour inside my 94 VR6 at the moment. Like any smell it's difficult to explain, but it's definitely not a brake smell and it's not really a burning smell either, nor does it strike me as being electrical. The closest thing it smells like is gear box oil. I changed the gearbox oil earlier this year, but I'm struggling to understand how gearbox oil would get inside the car, particularly as the engine bay doesn't smell at all. I also changed the exhaust recently, so it could be a leaky connection between the down pipe and the cat, conceivably. It's too dark to get it jacked up and check now, but I'm going to do this tomorrow. Could it be the clutch? I've never smelt a burnt clutch before but as I say it's not a hot brake smell, which I believe is similar? If it makes any difference it's quite persistent; I first noticed it last weekend and the car has been parked since then, but it's still strong a week later. The other thing I've noticed is that it seems to be stronger nearer the roof than in the foot wells, implying that whatever the gas is it's lighter than air. Anybody got any bright ideas what it could be? :shrug:

http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/80348

Button's only real saving grace in going up against Hamilton in "equal" equipment is that with next year's no refueling rules, things are potentially biased towards drivers who can look after their tyres well. Button is smooth, precise and kind to tyres; Hamilton is the opposite.

Even galvanised panels will still corrode eventually. Roll on the carbon fibre chassis...

...but a bit stinky?

Clearly you just need to invest in some roof bars.

I can't see how the MK4 ones will be quite as bad as the MK2/3 ones for corrosion since they're aluminium :shrug:.

I hope you've posted that on barryboys because it's a serious contender... for something.

So I was just searching for "heel and toe" because I was wondering if anyone else found it hard to do in the Corrado. Sounds like they do. I find the brake is too far away from the throttle to comfortably keep pressure and manage to roll over too. Maybe I just need more practice. The reason for the quote is that it reminded me of my old AX 1.0 (don't laugh ). You pretty much had to heel and toe if you were driving remotely quickly due to the gap between 3rd and 2nd being so huge. And yeah the pedals were all close together which helped. Anyway, happy thread necro :D.

Who, out of interest? I do 99% of my own work except for MOTs obviously, but it would be nice to know some decent garages around here anyway.

I'm not usually one for gushing, but that really is a very nice looking car :salute:. I want those wheels!

Wait a minute, adjustable cams? V(R6)TEC?

Actually I think I'm misremembering (if that's a word). The ABS system does have a voltage fault... I'd still get a hold of a cable though ;).

Hmm, that sounds suspiciously like the engine fault that you get when the battery is disconnected. VAGCOM can be a pain to get working with the Teves ABS system, is it possible they're not actually connecting to it and misdiagnosing an unrelated fault (which isn't actually a fault)? I suspected my ECU was fried at first as I couldn't get any communication but eventually got it going and found the sensors and eventually the pump needed replacing. If you have a laptop I'd get hold of a VAGCOM cable off ebay (they're not expensive) and check it yourself, for peace of mind if nothing else. Search for ABS and latency if you have communication problems.

I don't think it's anything like as black and white as "genuine good, pattern bad". Of course there are certain things you should only get from the dealer but there are other things where it really makes no sense. Personally I find my pattern ABS sensors work just fine ;).

It's quite straightforward to do without a pressure bleeder if you don't have one. I do, but I got into a situation where I needed to bleed the clutch without having it to hand (long story). Basically: 1. Attach fluid catcher to slave bleed screw and open. 2. Top up the fluid reservoir. 3. Pump the clutch pedal without letting the fluid level drop too low. ISTR you can manage down, up, down, up, with the fluid initially having been topped up. 4. If there is still air coming out, go to 2. 5. Close bleed screw.

The light will flash if the temp gets too high, and/or if the level drops too low. Right, but it shouldn't be flashing at 110, which is toasty but not extreme (I'm assuming this is a VR6).

The flashing light is an indication of a lack of water, not high temperatures. It could just be faulty wiring, but in any case do not drive the car if the light has been flashing without also checking the level of water in the expansion tank. If there is no water in the tank itself you probably have a leak which needs to be fixed.

Stilton works the best in my experience.

Yup, BR235461 £21.90 each. Did I mention I was tight? :).

Are the pistons in these calipers the same dimensions? I'm about to fit the latter, but the pistons are a bit past it really and I'm wondering if I can be a tight git and use the pistons out of my old calipers if they're in better condition and will fit the new calipers.

Yep and this is probably as long as you'd want it. You could lose another 30mm in length from it and still be able to make it fit, though I wouldn't recommend that.