monVR6

Thanks Goldie - that's great - puts my mind at rest - cheers . .

Hi all - can you guys help with a general question? I'm changing the discs and pads on a 2005 Daihatsu Charade - (don't ask) - and I'm working somewhat blind as there is no Haynes and I can't track down a workshop manual online either!! The pads are worn at an angle and I think this is because one of the caliper pins is sticking? - which I will clean and lubricate. Anyway - also - there are no screws holding the disc to the hub and I was wondering if this was normal - or whether they've been lost/left out at some point? There also doesn't seem to be much thread in the hub, so if I had them, not sure they would hold the discs on anyway. The brakes have been hideously noisy, so something obviously isn't right - any thoughts please? Cheers in advance.

Oh great - more expense then. Maybe I'll tackle it - if the sodding summer ever starts as I have no garage!! I'll get a diagnosis though and see where that goes. Thanks for your help . .

Is that expensive or diy? Not a 172 - just a hum-drum 1.4 sport . .

Hi all Apologies for lowering the tone by asking about a Clio - but can anyone help !! It's starting making a nasty whirring noise. Initially, it did it sporadically whilst coasting - in gear, with the clutch depressed. It now whirrs with the car in neutral with the clutch up OR depressed. It's also started doing it during general driving and bumps etc seem to affect it - as it will stop momentarily, then start again. Any ideas - it's sound expensive to me?? Thanks all

VR6 | Aqua Blue | Eastbourne Price: £3250 Description: Hi all Thinking of selling my 95 VR6 in Aqua Blue. I've had it for about 10 years since 67K - it now has 102K miles on it. Chains, top end rebuild, 263 Schimmel cams, lightened flywheel and a remap have all been done on the car - so the engine is super smooth. It also has had recent new brakes, and recent new tyres. Over time it has had a polished throttle body fitted, a K&N panel filter, Koni top adjustable shocks with H&R springs and Eibach anti-roll bars - plus the more common headlamp loom and wipers upgrade, clear side repeaters and is fittled with solitude alloys. Perhaps the best bit is the cream electrically adjustable and heated leather recaros which sit perfectly with the blue bodywork. Electrics all work although the sunroof can be temparamental, spoiler works as should, remote locking no longer used. Bodywork - the car is solid and looks good but some of the lacquer is lifting in isolated places - but is not hiding rust - aside from that looks presentable and drives beautifully. It has short tax and MOT - however, I will be getting a new MOT shortly, so it will have a full year. Considering the engine work and the spec, - (full leather electric interior which I understand is sought after and valuable) - I'm looking for £3,250.00 Pictures are here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56679-Martin-s-Corrado-(finally-adding-pics-after-10-years-ownership)-Lazy-!! More pics can be found here: http://s1291.beta.photobucket.com/user/moners/library/ Thanks. Martin

Thanks Bristolbaron. So - I would say the paint isn't bad and is not hiding rust. Considering the spec/interior and recent engine work I was thinking it would be up to £3.5K perhaps?

Hi all Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this. The for sale forum would seem to be best but I am really just trying to get an idea on price. Thinking of selling my 95 VR6 in Aqua Blue. I've had it for 10 years since 67K - it now has 102K miles on it. Chains, top end rebuild, 263 Schimmel cams, lightened flywheel and a remap have all been done on the car - so the engine is super smooth. It also has had recent new brakes, and recent new tyres. Over time it has had a polished throttle body fitted, a K&N panel filter, Koni top adjustable shocks with H&R springs and Eibach anti-roll bars - plus the more common headlamp loom and wipers upgrade, clear side repeaters and is fittled with solitude alloys. Perhaps the best bit is the cream electrically adjustable and heated leather recaros which sit perfectly with the blue bodywork. Electrics all work although the sunroof can be temparamental, spoiler works as should, remote locking no longer used. Bodywork - the car is solid and looks good but some of the lacquer is lifting in isolated places - aside from that looks presentable and drives beautifully. Considering the spec - (full leather electric interior which I understand is sought after and valuable) - anyone have an idea of value for the car? Of course I appreciate it is difficult to state without seeing the car, but a guideline as a start point would be useful. Pictures are here: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56679-Martin-s-Corrado-(finally-adding-pics-after-10-years-ownership)-Lazy -!! Thanks everyone in advance. Martin

Saw this on ebay . . . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-fiesta-mk1-Classic-hotrod-convertible-custom-project-/251128459856?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3a786c3250

Hmm - I've had the light problem for some time and previous checks never showed any fault codes related to battery. From memory, an ABS fault was shown and cleared but the light issue quickly returned - no battery fault though.

Hi all. So I know the ABS light staying on is a common problem - and has been with my VR for ages. Usually, it stays on all the time, unless I drive a good distance, turn the ignition off - then back on again - and the light goes out - (have used this technique to get through MOTs !). Anyway - recently replaced the battery as it kept going flat - and the problem seems to have gone. This seems to be more than coincidence - and hopefully will help others?? By the way - the "fix" hasn't coincided with the recent hot weather as when I put the battery on, we were still in the miserable dampness of a British late Springtime . .

N reg Blue storm parked up by the football ground in Lower Meads today - was cross with myself as I'd parked a few yards up the road rather than next to it!! - Then saw it again driving past the station.

Driving back from my parents on Saturday at about 4.30 - 6 ish I saw three Cs on the opposite carriaqgeway during the journey. Ok - so the journey was 100 miles - (Watford to Eastbourne) - but 3 on that trip is a record spot for me. Note - I wasn't driving so was able to scan oncoming traffic for the whole journey - what a sad old b****** I really am . . .

Hi all - an update. Now have a matching set of 4 new tyres and the car feels back to normal and handling great again. Seems it was an easy solution - though slightly expensive - but what cost good grip and safety eh?? Thanks for all your help everyone.

Hi Tom - that's great - thanks for the detail - it certainly sounds like a possible (if not likely) scenario as the garage did say there was about a 2mm difference. More than a coincidence I would say - and defo something I will investigate. Thanks again Stone - thanks for the offer of the calipers - but I'm a bit far away for a collection - (you're Harpenden right) - although my parents are in Watford. I'll see how the work with the thinner pads work goes tomorrow first if that's OK - thanks though. Just to say - you Corrado guys are so knowledgeable and helpful!!

Yeah makes sense Wendy - and I am hoping the matching new tyres on the front will restore the balance - will then "run them in" as you suggest. Cheers

I have heard talk of new tyres needing a bit of bedding in - so I bet that has something to do with it. I'll see how the new fronts affect it after a bit of bed-in time and not expect F1 cornering just yet :-) Hopefully a nice even set of new bedded-in tyres - (the olds were 8 years old) - will restore the balanced feel I had previously. Will update when I get the car back. Cheers

Brilliant that's cool - OK think I will go for the thinner pads and maybe look at the calipers next time - after all - having been made redundant a while back - big VR costs are a little down the list at present! Thanks for all your help Gaz

Thanks - I'll try and get a pic up - but the car is locked in the workshops garage now. It is the fronts on mine, so maybe I put the thinner pads in and just accept they will wear quicker - I do a really low mileage anyway. It seems strange though as the car has always braked fine and looking back through my history, I don't think the calipers have ever been changed - so I can't see how they could be different one side to the other? As it happened to you too - perhaps they wear differently making the difference between pagid pads fitting one side and not the other?? T'is a mystery! I presume the caliper pistons will naturally adapt to the pad thickness so braking will be even both sides? Do you think you have different calipers each side on yours? Thanks again . .

Thanks FishWick (kev) - The stuck caliper would be worth investigation. As per my other recent post - it is up on ramps at a local garage so easy to check. If it is sticking, I presume lifting off at speed would produce an effect similar to one rear wheel slightly braking - hence creating some skittishness (which is another symptom)? I'll get them to check the "freeness" at the rear. Again - as per my other post - any experience of new front brake pads fitting the caliper on one side - but being too thick for the other?? Thanks again . .

Thanks Critical_Mass - this seems to suggest though that there may also be two caliper sizes too - otherwise presume the pagid pads would be too thick for both sides??? Can't see how the pads fit one side and not the other if the calipers are the same, unless wear on an older caliper(??) allows a thicker pad? How did you resolve - did you just find thinner pads? Were they still pagid? Cheers - this is really helpful

Hi all. VR has had some rumbling brakes so my local garage has investigated this for me. It appears there is rusting on the passenger side disc with a similar imperfection on the pads - so I am proposing to put new discs and pads on the front. But - the new pads (pagid) won't fit into the drivers side caliper and it seems there may be a non-Corrado caliper on that side. The garage said that only one type of pad is listed for my 95 VR6 - but there are two types listed for both Golf and Passat. Could someone have historically put the wrong caliper on one side - or are the pistons just not going into the caliper body properly? The mechanic is sure it is the wrong caliper but the part number is too corroded to confirm. Options are to fit thinner pads - but I presume I will just be confronting the same problem at a later date - or just fit a new driver's caliper. Any thoughts or comments? Could the calipers be mixed and therefore the wrong caliper fitted in the past? Cheers all.

OK - have checked the suggested items and nothing seems amiss so have gone back to the garage who have had it up on the ramp checking all suspension, bushes etc etc and found nothing wrong. Looking at the old fronts, I've decided to put on two new tyres to match the new rears - (those on were 8 years old with some wear anyway). Hopefully this will solve it. Cheers

Thanks guys - a few things to check tomorrow in the daylight. I would hope the garage put the tyres on correct and tightened the nuts - but you never know! Will let you know how I get on. Cheers

Hi all - long time since I posted last - good really because the VR has thereforebeen behaving! However . . Bit of background: The dreaded MOT was due and it failed on the famous ABS light staying on, some new brake pipes and two rear tyres. The garage spent some time investigating the ABS issue and quoted a fault code which suggested a new ABS pump was required - (apparently £2K from VW). Anyway - I searched on here and suggested some options - but ultimately, as it seems to operate correctly when the car is warm, I told them to run it prior to the retest - and lo and behold - when they tested again the ABS behaved perfectly - so I have a pass. But when I picked it up - it felt decidedly strange in the corners - like it was going to oversteer - particularly on righthand bends. Lefthand seems as before. I doubt this is just down to the rear tyres being changed? Also - under normal driving, it just feels less stable. Seeing as only the brake pipes, and tyres have been changed - plus some ABS investigation - any ideas on what may be happening? Would any suspension items have needed to be disconnected to change the pipes? For info, the car is on Koni TAs with H&R springs and eibach anti-roll bars as set up by Stealth. Any thoughts? I plan to discuss with the garage tomorrow but any ideas upfront would be great. Cheers