Jay23Sx

I didn't even know one existed until I was reading through the Golf Mk2 Haynes Manual (so I can't really tanslate this to a VR6) but the manual suggests as well as checking the ISV (and associated wiring) that I should also check the control unit. It's located behind the gear stick in the centre console. Another forum member told me it was about the size of a fag packet and black. Never actually had a rummage for mine yet.

The car stalls when the ISV is connected, even with a new ISV ? Have you checked the ISV controller - it's about the size of a fag packet apparently and behind the centre console? Not exactly sure how you test it mind .. maybe someone else knows more details!

the tune-up guy already did that .. and the car has no alarm/imobiliser.

Quick update time, with some new problems, so I was hoping for some more suggestions from you very kind people :) Here is a quick summary so far: - Purchased the car in May, perfect sounding engine, no idle problems, sounded like new - Engine cut out at a junction on my way home a few months later, would start but would die after a few seconds. - Went to a mechanic who told me that it was the fuel distributor, actually came back from him a complete non starter - Replacement fuel distributor fitted (2nd hand), started again but back to square one (cutting out straight after starting) - Local Tune-Up mechanic adjusted the mixture and idle speed. Would start and run (lumpy) but cut out under any load - ISV cleaned with carb cleaner, new injectors fitted and replacement air intakes put on to cure an air leak - Car starts, idles (very lumpy and smells rich) and will actually drive - *BUT* after 10-15 mins (when warm) the idle starts to fluctuate and unless you keep some throttle on the car stalls While everyones been great so far and the car has definitely improved I'm hoping someone might have some new ideas on how to get it over this next hurdle. Some research on the forums have suggested that: 1) It could still have an air leak which I haven't found 2) The manifold gasket(s) could have gone - the gaps expand when warm and the air fuel mix gets messed up 3) Someone had a similar problem with a VR6 (lumpy idle and cutting out once warm) and a new coil solved it 4) Temperature senders could be passing the wrong info to the ISV I've ordered some new temperature senders and a replacement coil which should be delivered tomorrow. In the mean time is there anything else I should be considering? It was great to be back behind the wheel of the car, but not so good sitting by the side of the road on the test run waiting for it to cool down :(

Cheers everyone .. at least my original thoughts were confirmed :) The manual was still good reading on the basic points of the KR system, especially for someone who knows nothing like me !

The book seems to suggest that the metering head alone wasn't good enough to meet emission limits hence the probe. But I was also of the opinion that the KR didn't have one. I did double check the manual was definitely for the KR system (and not any variations) but as it's the generic Bosch manual perhaps some other manufacturers did have lambda probes.

Hello Everyone, long time no type. Quick question for you .. I was under the impression that my 1.8 KR (on an H plate) didn't have a Lambda probe as it's non-cat. However I've just been reading the Bosch Gasoline Fuel-Injection System K-Jetronic Technical Instruction book (snappy title isn't it) and it would have me believe that I do. Just wondered if this is something else I should be taking into account with my idle problems. This is the extract from the Bosch manual:

I've got one from AVS - £9 plus a few quid for the new cap as well - and it's worked fine for me so far.

The cubby hole behind the gear stick is what you want to get at. You remove the gear stick surround and gater and you should find a couple of screws that hold it on. I should add: before you do all that, have you tried cleaning the ISV first?

I can't answer all of this because it differs a little, by the looks of things, from the 16V but .. 1) Not sure - mine was jubilee clips! 2) The rubber boot does come off with the ISV, it's held in place because the opening is slightly narrower than the metal "beam" it slides over (which flares out even more at the end to stop it sliding off). Had to use a flatblade screwdriver and some patience to get mine off. 3) Carb cleaner in both holes (according to the 16V cleaning threads) but you may want to fill it up and leave it for a while to really clean it out. VR6 owners will be able to help with the clip removal instructions.

Right, a few things tried this weekend .. ISV cleaned out with carb cleaner ISV continuity checked with multimeter Temperature sender resistance checked (1,000 Ohms at 20 degrees) Splits in air intakes sealed (until parts can be sourced) And it still runs rough and cuts out as soon as you start to move. Although it's now developed a new fault - reving up to 6,000 rpm with nothing on the throttle. Once it's started doing this it keeps on doing it until about the 3rd attempt at starting. So .. any more ideas before I get fed up with it and send it to the scrappers ? :)

Rebuilt 1.8 16V (1,000 miles ago) on eBay for £399 .. I see why you think that quote is expensive but a lot of that has to be labor.

3 miles? I thought to give the battery time to charge you needed to drive it for at least 30 minutes .. but that doesn't explain why it doesn't start at all now. The only thing that I can think of near the rear of the car that could whine would be the fuel pump.

My Haynes manual (Golf) states the following - perhaps someone here will know how much this varies from the Corrado. Section 4C - Fuel & Exhaust Systems - K-Jetronic - 16V Engines 3.3 If the system fault cannot be traced by using the previous test (that's checking the resistance of the temperature sender for diagnosing ISV problems) then check all associated wiring. If necessary, renew the control unit which is located behind the centre console. Section 11.15 - Bodywork and fittings Centre console. 1. Disconnect the battery earth lead 2. Unscrew and remove the gear level knob then unclip and remove the gater 3. Undo the retaining screws and pull free the console from its guides at the rear. 4. Refit in reverse order Unfortunately it doesn't say which item behind the console is the control unit or how to recognise it.

The control module for the ISV (the idle control unit) is behind the centre console - don't ask me why, but that's what my Haynes manual tells me as well. From memory, I was reading the instructions last week, it's what the Haynes manual suggests swapping out if you're getting strange readings when you check the wiring to the ISV. One of the many things I need to investigate with my idle issue.

Well I've had some progress ! My local corner shop mechanic called in a friend from the local franchise of Tune Up - he instantly found that a) the mixture was wrong b) both bends from the metering head to the throttle body had splits in and c) the injectors are weeping. He originally thought he'd made enough adjustments to get the car to run while I sort out the parts, and yes, for a whole 5 minutes I went cruising round the town to test it. Unfortunately after the 5th minute it started stalling at every junction (about 200 yards from a roundabout say) and then is a bit hesitant at starting because of the weepy injectors. He thinks I can compensate by winding out the idle speed screw 3-4 turns. In the mean time it's back to sourcing parts!

Did you find the book, and if so, was I right? :)

Hi Whats wrong with her? Idle issues (see Engine Bay section for more details)

If you dig out your Haynes manual (red Golf one) it has a good section on flushing out the system - I think most of the chapter just deals with flushing the radiator but it does also suggest another inlet for giving it a proper clean (off the top of my head I think it suggests disconnecting the hose at the cylinder head and putting the wather through there).

She's not very well at the moment but another for you .. Like many people here I didn't really want a red car but found this one for sale and couldn't refuse. Grown to like it now and desperately want it back on the road!

Don't give me more to check .. ! I was able to cope with the 1-point-nothing engine in a little Polo I used to have but that was as simple as a hamster on a wheel :) At this rate I need to find myself a local expert .. well, someone who knows more than me anyways.

I should add that I know the plug is where it's supposed to be as I've just been out and unplugged it. On first start it seemed to have solved the problem - the car idled perfectly. And then it started to get slower and slower until it cut out. Still, an improvement on before. If anything this has convinced me more that I should get a replacement ISV.

I've put the book away but there is definitely a plug by the coil as per the illustration in the manual (it's a whilte plug on quite a short lead right by where the HT lead plugs into the coil - a red wire from memory). The cap it refers to is the cap that's supposed to be over the idle speed adjustment screw - although I imagine most people have since lost it. According to the haynes manual the plug that is directly conencted to the ISV goes off to either the brake or clutch cyliner - can't remember which now, and yes -it confused me to the first time I read that.

I thin what I tried to suggest earlier that if the ISV is screwed then it could be the "specified speed" is going up and down like a yo yo. Without the ISV it goes more into a manual mode .. if that makes sense.

My Haynes manual (Golf GTI KR Engine) seems to suggest that without the ISV connected the engine will almost settle into a default mode. It's at this point that the idle speed adjust screw really makes any difference.