Jay23Sx

Back on topic though, maybe I should replace my dodgy headlight switch (that you have to force onto full) and perhaps my fan might start working again and/or I may start getting a more stable temp reading.

Good old VW electrics for you :) I had a 1989 Polo which used to try and communicate via morse code and the coolant light. If you were lucky the oil pressure buzzer would go off in time with the light (until you hit the dashboard and all would go silent).

Theres nothing wrong with showing a bit of muscle, I don't have many unfortunately :) I found the part, it was about £5 and I'll be using it this weekend.

Possibly where you're going wrong! :lol: You'll be surprised :) To be honest I only use good old fashioned tripple wax shampoo and coloured polish at the moment. I will be taking notes from this thread though for future use.

I have to say it does scrub up well, but it does take a lot of spit and polish to make it look like that.

Hi All, Just a quickie: does anyone know what size oil filter cap/wrench I need to do a change on a 1.8 valver? I've already got a standard strap wrench but it still proved a right bugger to get off the last time, thought I'd try and make it even easier.

If you have a dealer near to you then thats always your best bet on any fluids (coolant included) but if you don't then most places stock PAS fluid, including websites like VW Spares. Note to any early valver drivers, ignore the writing on the PAS fluid reservoir - don't use ATF (the red stuff) but standard green stuff from VW. I think I was told it's labelled like this because VW used golf parts on the early Corrados.

I quite like my Tornado Pink car I'll have you know. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2387207.jpg[/attachment:pqzhrg4m] DSC_7951_Js_Car_medium.jpg[/attachment:pqzhrg4m]

If the temp appears normal when driving at a steady pace, and therefore cooled by the wind, but goes up when you are stuck in traffic then you should concentrate on checking the fan. If the coolant is at the correct level and appears to be circulating correctly (both rad hoses are hot, heater blows hot air) then you can use the heater to aid cooling if you have to drive the car before the problem is fixed. After all, it's just a small radiator and fan but inside the car.

A lot of people wouldn't class £300 as cheap wheels :)

The only tip that really works is: take your time - pour in the coolant at a slow pace and in a steady stream. Oh, and make sure your heater is set to maximum before you start filling. Once up to the MAX mark, start the engine but leave the cap off. Let it warm up a little, switch off the engine and top back up to max.

Strangely enough my fan has stopped working ever since I had a hose blow on me a few weeks back. It's a tad strange really, if I start it cold and let it warm up it will come on at the right temp. However if I drive it around for a bit, stop (leave the engine running) and check the fan it's not doing anything even when it should be. I've got a replacement fan and a new thermoswitch which I need to sort out soon, but for now I just switch the heater onto full if it looks like it's creeping up on me.

VW hoses are just as good unless you have a real desire to go for performance hoses. VW may work out slightly more expensive if you replace every single hose going (some of mine had been done over the last few years so I didn't need to do all of them) but theres not a lot in it.

What would be the cause of the excess pressure on the system? The guy from RAC hose job was nearly three times longer than the original hose that ripped? Would that of caused it? It's unlikely, as long as it was the right bore it doesn't really matter how long it was - the only thing that would change is a slight increase in the amount of water needed to fill the system up. Excess pressure in the coolant system is a head gasket problem in most cases. Or it was just down to an old hose that has had to much of getting hot over the last 15 years and just weakened. That's all it was in my case anyway.

You wouldn't work for Silvertech would you ? I only ask because that means you could be local so I could have a butchers when you are all done ;)

My local dealer charged £5 + VAT per can for Tornado Red, I'd go that route if they still have stock of your colour.

You can buy additional maps at a later date using the Tom Tom Home application for your PC or Mac. Certain US tourist attractions also sell updates for the Tom Tom, normally in the form of an SD card, for adding the standard attractions as POI items (points of interest).

I'd certainly say it means you have to be careful, you wouldn't want them going off.

Proper G12++ from the dealers, it's the same price as anything you'd get from GSF or Halfords.

I love my Tom Tom Go 530 (now the 540 I believe). Comes complete with UK and ROI maps but additional maps can be added via your PC or SD card. Comes complete with fixed speed cameras but Tom Tom will charge for updates. However you can get updates from other places on the web which includes known mobile hotspots for a lot less money. Other features include bluetooth for handsfree, IQ Routes (dependant on time of the day) and Advanced Lane Guidance.

I would have thought it would have had 'Airbag' stamped on the bolsters somewhere if it did have them. Edit: Just checked, standard spec list from the VW website lists "Front seat side impact airbags"

Does the VR6 not have an accumulator ? It could be that.

I can't put in a recommendation myself as I haven't got round to buying a set yet, but if you read a couple of the pages of this thread you'll read a fair number of positive reviews. And yes, it uses the OEM headlights and is plug 'n play.

These are the bump strips that protect other cars but not yours ? :) My doors are full of parking dents because they don't offer any protection what so ever - but they do stop me marking other peoples.

It means you actually appear to have some form of headlight, instead of the couple of torches that the OEM loom suggests.