Jay23Sx

What car are we talking about? On the early C's the ISV power comes from a little white connector right by the coil. The Haynes manual (red Golf one) says to unplug this if you want to test the ISV. (it also says to disconnect it when you're setting the screw on the throttle body)

Not that interested in doing it myself, was just curious if anyone else had done it because they are rather comfy. Shame about the rest of the car really, the 320d is much more fun to drive.

Hi All, While my car is off the road, not even sure if it'll get through it's next MOT even if I sort the falling off wheel, I've been kindly allowed to drive a company car so I can get in while public transport is a bit ropey. One of the cars I've got access to is a 57 plate Passat 2.0 TDI Sport. While it's not actually that much fun to drive, what with still having the standard diesel in it despite the Sport badge, it does have some exceptionally comfy seats. Has anyone attempted to put them in a C before? I'm guessing they're probably a bit tall.

Is it really that easy? I thought certain important components behind the scenes were also different, the headlight wiring loom to the switch being one of them?

wheel bearing housing it is .. it's very confusing, I've also heard it refered to as the steering knuckle (Bentley) as well as the hub carrier.

Because mine died (when wheel bearing colapsed) and it's a jolly expensive part new. Haven't had a response to my wanted ad, most people only want to sell it with the full hub and brake setup for about £50 and I've seen one much cheaper else where :)

Hi Everyone, Anyone know if a Mk3 2.0 8V hub carrier would work on a early valver? I know the hub itself will be a 5 stud but it's the carrier I am most interested in. Cheers.

Depends on whether you like a slightly dark or a slightly light red really. Tornado Red is nice when it's fresh (if you wanted a respray) as it's a little deeper than Flash. Edit: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=3 ... 05acf9b0aa The first photo is the first day of ownership, others are from second day after a bit of spit and polish. And yes, that's Tornado Red.

Didn't read the highways agency advice on avoiding colisions .. feet of all pedals and steer around obstacle. Foot on clutch/out of gear wouldn't have helped as he would have no engine breaking.

If your lucky it is the one I had to replace in this thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82150 £10 + VAT from the dealers (or was last year) but that is the cheapest one they do I believe.

OEM pipes are expensive, very expensive, if you're talking about a full set. Cheaper to buy performance ones if you want to replace the whole lot in one go. realy? I thought you could get each hose for about £5?? or am i talking nonsense.. edit: i just looked and the longest hose is going for £6.50 from Volks apart. the short one near the LHS is £3. and a new rad is £38. Dunno is they are after market or VAG parts. Still.. could be worse[/quote:2s5rlrz8] If it's from volks apart the chances are it's from cars that have been broken (if new then definately not OEM). Dealers charge about £30 for the cheapest hose up to about £60 for the one that connects to the flange on the front of the block. People like GSF only tend to do the rad hoses not the other smaller ones.

OEM pipes are expensive, very expensive, if you're talking about a full set. Cheaper to buy performance ones if you want to replace the whole lot in one go.

was there any water coming out from under the car? any steam in the engine compartment?[/quote:3ftq847p] Hi Alex Didn't really look into it that much but when i popped the bonnet there was steam coming from the lower part of the engine, say between the rad and belts. I just threw a load of swear words at it and drove 0.2m back home.[/quote:3ftq847p] 1.8 16V right? Could be the short 5" ish pipe that goes between the pump and the metal coolant pipe. Mine went and had steam in around the same place, and apparently if it's not been replaced before it's known to go (normally when you switch the engine off) because it's also the one nearest the engine. Have a feel around for a tear in it.

Well that's no major cost really even if I have to, not compared to the hub carrier.

Well, I guess the fan would have a bearing which could be going? I'm not sure about ripping you off, a new fan (non OEM) is about £30 and if it's a 16V you can change it yourself in about 15 minutes (less if the bolts come off easy).

Ta, thought it would be that but it's listed as "Wheel Bearing Housing" which threw me. I guess that means I need 9, most of 28 (minus ABS specific parts) as well as a new brake disk and pads.

Speaking of Hub Carriers .. what are they? May seem a daft question but I'm looking at VAGCAT and they don't have anything listed along the lines of "Hub Carrier" - the closest thing from the list is the wheel bearing housing. Help? :)

Hi All, Not sure if any of you saw but about three weeks ago I had a bearing collapse on me without any warning (honest). Finally got round to having a mechanic look at it and the damage caused by the bearing means I need a new hub, hub carrier, pads, disks and something else (which I can't remember at the moment). The hub carrier was the most expensive component (170+VAT I think he said) but may not be needed depending on what they find when they properly strip things down. He esitmated the total cost to be between £350 and £550 (dependant on the hub carrier) which includes 2-3 hours labour. Do you think this is a reasonable price, and to be honest, is it worth it ?

It's not an aux air valve, I think vagcat have it listed as the "deceleration cut-off valve" Edit: Number 18 on the attached, not number 1 which most people think it is (listed as "vacuum switch")

Same symptoms as my original fault with my KR. Was, as the garage described it, a faulty "vacuum valve". Edit: My symptoms here viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73130&start=15#p870376 This is the part that fixed it viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81591&start=15#p951344

Yes and no really, the "fitting centers" - especially with Auto Windscreens - don't have dedicated staff. You drop your car off and then a mobile fitter just does it outside the branch rather than outside your home.

All I know is that the Febi stuff is "S6161 Febi Hydraulic Fluid" and that if you have an early C you have to ignore the fact that the red cap actually says to use ATF (that's wrong, apparently it's becaused they used the caps off an older Golf).

I think one of the other clips on there describes it better "it only works if it's not creased". To get a dent like that on a Corrado takes quite a bashing as its quite a thick body and it causes to much damage to just pop out.

Oh I'm sure it probably will be, it's a Corrado after all :) Not to worried at the moment as I'm going to be away for a while with work so I've got my hands on a set of keys for one of the companies BMW 320d's.

Isn't this the BMW with the "fabric" body ?