Jay23Sx

This may be a long shot, but I recently discovered that the bulbs in the switches stop lighting up if there is an issue somewhere else in the circuit, including a problem with the bulbs in the headlights themselves. The chances are this is nothing to do with your issue, but before you go trying to take the switch apart it may be something to double check? (In my case the light on my fog light switch started coming on when I changed the rear fog light bulb)

I didn't know it was an issue, and to be honest I'm still not convinced that wheel nuts need to be done to a specific torq. But then, each to there own. Oh, it was three different garages I had in mind hence I didn't think it was unusual. GCS, Elite and National.

yes i do along with anyother bolt that i undo do you not then ??? :cuckoo: I've never taken any bolt off that would need it to be honest. However I do know plenty of people that have taken a wheel off that don't (including garages, but then if anything they do them up to tight) - they just do the whole put your weight on the tyre iron (ooo, I've turned American) thing.

Do many people really torq the wheel nuts? Is "as done up as tight as you can get with the supplied tool" not good enough any more?

It's more likely to be the fan run on switch, if the cable is earthing against the block (well, anything really) or the switch is faulty then the fan will stay on. This is the sensor that keeps the fan running when you switch the engine off, for up to 10 minutes I believe, to stop the fuel evaporating in the fuel lines.

Have the company who owned the lorry not volunteered to stump up the cash if you don't go through the insurance route? I work for a company that has a large fleet of lorries (and company cars) and the excess is so phrobitive they just settle and pay out the cash without going the official route. They'd also consider scrapping a £30k reps car if it was involved in an accident and buying a new one because they've agreed to a silly excess - I'd rather not know what it is.

As I said, that's what I think. Although I could be wrong :)

Depends which light you mean, the one on the temperature gauge is actually a low coolant level warning (primarily that is, it does warn of a high temp in conjunction with the gauge as well, just to confuse things). The sensor for which plugs into the expansion tank. The one along the bottom of the dash was more for oil pressure I thought.

or it could just be that the heat selector isn't working (the cable has come off/snapped etc.)

Valie would be the make. GSF have it listed at £38 so the factors are around the right price. GSF only list one for the Corrado so it appears to be the same one in all models.

About £40 from GSF, not sure about a VW one (or even if they still do them).

edit the first post in this thread to update the main subject.

K reg dark green VR6 this morning in Crawley, lady driver (works at the airport I think). Never shows any interest in other Corrado's on the road so I doubt a forum member :) Was quite a nice feeling when I sped past her in my little valver though.

You're lucky it doesn't already, the only way top stop my radio draining the battery is to take the face off.

I know I've only got a 1.8 valver but my gauge often sits at 70, or just below, when driving along at a steady pace. If I'm stuck in traffic it'll rise pretty quickly though, with the fan coming on when the gauge is around 96. Tends not to climb any further than that once the fan is on, but doesn't really drop either. Oil will reach 98-100 at these points, generally flicking between 98 and 100 constantly. Oil when driving normally tends to be low to mid 80s.

I'm happy to report that it appears to have been the thermoswitch in my case, however to be sure I have also replaced the fan (with a newer but 2nd hand one) and I've got the run-on sensor on order with the local dealer. I've had to many problems with cooling so I'm just going to replace as much as I can to be sure.

What you want is the Moonlight Blue VR6 (1995) currently listeed a £995 :)

Not my cup of tea, knowing me I'd use the wrong grade of wire and have some hot plastic :) I've got a new one anyway so I'm just going to change the thermoswitch regardless.

Ok, I've got a 1.8 valver and I was wondering what else controls the fan. I've replaced the fan, I've changed the fuse and I'm going to do the thermoswitch at the weekend. Before I get to carried away is there anything else I should think about checking or changing?

See this thead from yesterday viewtopic.php?f=17&t=83928

Replace every two years? Never knew that .. I've had the car a year and not done it and I can't remember seing any evidence of it being done recently in the history. May have to look at that then. brake fluid is hygroscopic (basically it draws in water from the atmosphere over time). as it draws in more water over the years it's boiling point gradually gets less and less (making it unsafe), and also it will start to rot the internals of your braking system - steel lines, pistons in brake calipers, abs pump internals etc etc i think manufacturers quote a change every 5 years or so. guess it depends on how much you use the car, where it's stored, how hard you brake etc etc - personally i would change it at least every 3 years just to be sure. you can buy testers that tell you the boiling point and/or water concentration for not much money as well if you're worried :wink: I think I'd rather just change it, I need some new flexi hoses anyway. Not sure I'm up for touching brakes myself, either need to find a local person up for exchanging labour for liquid persuasion to show me the ropes or I'll send it to the garage.

Replace every two years? Never knew that .. I've had the car a year and not done it and I can't remember seing any evidence of it being done recently in the history. May have to look at that then.

Cheers for that, I'll do it some point this week along with a coolant change so I can replace the thermoswitch at the same time.

Can I just check that to swap a fan on my 1.8 valver I just undo the four retaining bolts (one on each corner) and lift out the housing? I'm getting fed up with having to watch the temp all the time because the fan isn't running when it should so want to do it one evening when I get home from work now. Edit: I did use the search, honest. All I got was pages and pages about radiator removal, none just about removing the fan with the radiator still in place.

This will help viewtopic.php?f=17&t=83928 2nd Post.