Jay23Sx

I had a DM on Twitter from Jon Bentley the other day, he being the producer or director of TG at the time (can't remember which), stating that the best ever Corrado he's seen was a crew members purple VR6 with cream leather interior. So even back in Mk1 TG days they loved the Corrado. Edit: He was producer and editor of TG between 87 and 99. The car was owned by the director. If anyone knows the history of there C and happens to know that it was owned by someone who worked for TG then I'm sure he'd like to know it's still out there.

If they are painted red then green bulbs will do the trick. If they are tinted red (by film) then you need the orange LEDs. You may find what you need here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63845

easy to miss, but theres a line in there about wanting to change the engine due to high mileage.

Hmm a little bit of déjà vu .. I'm sure I've seen this somewhere before. :shrug:

If it's the run on switch then you're looking at about £15 including VAT - got one from the dealers the other week.

What exactly is going on with that breather pipe? Looks like a bit of vacuum cleaner hose with a bottle stuck on the end :)

West Sussex GCS Engineering (German Car Specialists) Unit A Monks Gate Garage Brighton Road Monks Gate Horsham RH13 6JD 01403 891060 http://www.gcsengineering.com

Well I've picked them up today, the good news is you no longer need hex bits as they are standard bolts. Downside is the ones I've got to get off are :) Personally I think half the problem with "obsolete" parts is the dealers not really wanting to spend time finding or cross referencing things.

If anyone needs these in future they are not obsolete, current part number is N01021723 @ 21 pence each.

It's a lot cheaper up north then :) £7 down here (purcashed from dealer Saturday)

G12 is about £7 inc VAT (well, it's £7.xx)

Any car with servo assisted braking will do that regardless of ABS, you're supposed to use it as a test of your braking system before any journey (according to the highway code). My early valver, non ABS, does it and so did the Focus I learnt to drive in (last year) - it was one of the things you had to know for the "show and tell" session with the examiner.

You know, the more I look at it the more I think it may actually be the flange. It's a cheaper fix than all the other bigger, more scary things so I'll give it a go. I've done a search and found some advice - lets just hope I can do it without taking the inlet manifold off.

Sorry, should have made it clear. It's no where near the water pump. The leak is coming from the area around the flange on the block, so it's above the level of the pump. However I'm pretty certain it's not the flange itself.

Right then, I changed the hose which I thought was at fault (the three outlet £45 Oil/Pump/Flange hose) and filled it up with coolant. Didn't appear to be leaking any more so thought it was all sorted, drove it home and popped the hood when it got home to find a steady stream of coolant. Switched the engine off and it continued leaking for about 15 seconds then slowed and stopped. Wasn't a gush, but was a constant trickle. Comes from the area of the flange but I'm not convinced it's the flange at fault, it appears to be coming from somewhere else slightly higher up (gasket?). Only appears to happen under pressure though. Any ideas? Cheers! PS. Will try and get a pic if I can. PPS. I drove behind it on the way back (company car) and there wasn't any signs of white smoke.

They may not be the best in the world, but they're better than nothing. I need to find some cheap standby alloys soon, one of mine (which are really awful) has buckled slightly. Didn't notice until it needed a new tyre.

Saw an L reg blue C going around the rounadabout at Horsham station last night, around 18:20. Almost had a battle with the fire engine going around the roundabout the wrong way.

Strangely DDI have pictures of 16v dials on the website so I imagine they must have made them at some point (or I guess they could have been prototypes they just photographed) - if they did I wonder how hard it is to track down a 2nd hand set?

Afternoon, Just a quick question for you .. how difficult would a, reasonably confident, amatuer find a head gasket change with the aid of some forum advice and the red Golf Mk2 Haynes manual? The reason I ask is because I'm starting to think some of my cooling issues could be down to the start of a head gasket fail. I've got no mayo and no white smoke but I am slowly loosing coolant and recently had 2 hoses go on me. Ok, so they were 20 year old original hoses but all of this has got me thinking. I'd take the car off the road so I don't have the pressure of needing it as a daily, and any suggestions and an idea of timescale would be appreciated. PS. I did try a search, honest, but all I could find was lots of people asking about whether they had a failing head gasket - not a guide on doing it.

Am I right in thinking I'd get a much better view of the water pump if I remove the alternator, or is there something else that would block my view even after I did all that?

The metal water pipe is at the other end of the hose I've already replaced isn't it ? It's not that then, as this is right on/around the pump (right hand side of it). Oh, I'd also say it's below the level of the hose I've already replaced.

Well it's definately from around the pump, I went back to the car at lunch and found that the coolant had now completely drained (right bugger, I only changed it two weeks ago) - poured in about half a litre and it was running out around the area of the house I replaced last time - had a feel around and I couldn't find any damage to it so I assume it's the other hose connected to the pump, the one that feeds the oil cooler and connects to the flange on the block (£45 worth of hose!). Is there any thing else in that area that could cause it, a gasket or similar?

That's the one I've already done, although the person who did it for me (smaller hands) just used jubilee clips so I did suspect that it's not tight enough and leaking/popped off under pressure. Its definately not the same amount of steam as last time though, in that instance it dumped all of the coolant in about 2 seconds - I still have coolant in the system at the moment although it did drop below the level of the sensors. Edit: Last issue viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82150

Morning All, This morning I arrived at work in another cloud of steam, although not quite as impressive as last time. Just before pulling up my coolant level warning light came on, so I knew something was wrong even before stopping. After lifting the bonet I was greeted by a steady flow of steam from the bottom left hand side of the block, coming up from behind the alternator. To confuse things more, I'm pretty sure that there was also a little bit of steam from the bottom of the rad, where the hose connects (although that could have just been blown there in the wind). Because of the nature of the hiss/spiting sound that went with it I'm assuming it's not a great big rip in the pipe (see previous cooling issue!) but more likely a seal or a loose hose. I'm going back out at lunch to prod some hoses to see if I can make it drip but my early suspicion is that it will only do this under pressure so I may not have much luck. Any ideas on where I should concentrate my search?

Apologies for the hijack, but does the rev counter just clip into the clocks in the same way? Mine sticks and I'd like to take it out to try and sort the badly applied Lockwood face.