marf497

oxygen sensor thats what was up with mine make sure its an original sensor not a generic sensor as i had changed the cat & oxygen sensor and started having problems about 6 months after I thought the sensor & cat would be ok as fairly new but got a new original sensor fitted and solved the problem

I take it, it is when you remove the strut that causes the problem can you get away with marking the bolts with tipex or something or is it to fine an adjustment?? Cheers.

I have a problem with one of my rear brakes just when it goes below zero the cable freezes and sticks on there is a boot on the cabke that splits and moisture gets in i've had this problem from I got my corrado 2 years ago but I just leave it in gear. The other thing it could be is the cable could be frayed and catching I had that years ago on an old Astra.

Thanks what needs to get alligned is it the steering??

cheers do you just remove the caliper and disk then is it a hub carrier and knock out the old bearing and press in the new one.Can you put the new one in with a vice or can you knock it in. Also i take it you need to grease the inside of the bearing. Cheers

I just got a new front wheel bearing for my 94 2l 16v i've only ever done back wheel bearings before wher you have the bearing and the bit you knock out of the hub and the seal. This bearing seems to be 1 unit and 2 circlips and a new bolt is this right. Had a search but couldn't find anything about how to change is it straight forward. Cheers in Advance.

Eventually got to the bottom of this problem I took my car to Bedrocks veedubs vw specialists in Motherwell it was my oxygen sensor causing over fuelling. At the end of last year i had a new cat and oxygen sensor fitted as i've found out these engines don't like aftermarket oxygen sensors so new VW oxygen sensor and mixture reset and my car is now running a dream.

i seen somewhere and done this myself that you put an amp meter on the connector on the engine side of the metering head with the engine running and at normal temperature and you adjust the screw with a long reach 3mm allen key let the reading settle it will fluctuate a bit but for the 2l 16v your looking for 2.5ma the reading will bounce about a bit the lower the reading it is running rich and the higher it is running lean to make it rich turn the screw clockwise & anticlockwise for lean also don't rev the engine with the allen key in as it can damage something in the metering head. You need the amp meter in series if your using a digital meter and its reading negative swap your leads round(i snipped one of the wires to put in my amp meter and done the adjustment then rejoined the wire).

I've got another metering head so i'm going to change it over and connect up the connector and see how it goes i noticed 1 of the wires on this connector goes to the coolant sensor so might be the coolant sensor but i'll change the metering head first. Cheers.

Eventually got round to having a good look at this if i disconnect the connector from the metering head the connector on the wing side then i have no problems only thing is when engine is hot i think it revs a little higher would this point to the coolant sensor or is it a metering head problem?? Cheers.

put my old clocks back in and my mpg on the mfa are ok now no vacuum pipe connected. Tried swapping over the dial for the revs as the spacing was different but still showed low.

Check that your getting 12v on the coil (black & green whires on the 3 pin connector I think) i had a problem with mine I was only getting about 5v on the coil and no spark I thought it was the coil amplifier or the ecu as when i disconnected ecu i got 12v I ended up getting the pin out for the ecu and fusebox and it was a problem with a connector on the back of my fusebox viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76317

16v clocks i only changed them as my revs where reading a lot lower than they should be i'm going to change them back tomorrow and see if my mpg is ok just can't see this vacuum pipe anywhere. not sure if it is used on my mine its a 1994.

I put new clocks in my 2l 16v (9a) as my old clocks where VR clocks my new clocks work great except the MPG is miles out showing about 15mpg had a search and seen posts about a vacuum pipe on the back of the clocks. When i removed my old clocks(mpg was ok on them) i didn't see any vacuum pipe ive had my clocks out and can't find this vacuum pipe is this pipe only on VR6's?? or should it be their ive removed the bottom cover under the steering column at the pedals and still cant see this pipe. Any ideas would be apreciated.

Cheers i'll have a look tomorrow i was going by column 8 from this link http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/000.html when you say that column 1 if the value is high then the ecu will think the engine is freezing i'm sure mine was reading about 80 with the engine still warm (started about 20mins after a run) i thought the reading was the actual temperature i see yours is about 135 do you know how to convert these readings into actual measurements. Also with your measurements what temperature was your engine?? Cheers.

Had my vag-com on my car and the lambda control in the measuring blocks is reading 000 when my car starts idles ok then revs drop to near stalling after about half a minute to a minute revs return to normal and the reading is still the same even when revving my car any ideas what this should be reading this only happens when the engine is warm even 4hrs after last run but if srarted in the morning when engine is cold it starts and runs ok??

replaced ISV with one from breakers gave it a clean but my cars still the same I also cleaned thecvontacts on my dizzy cap I cant hear anything from the ISV but when i took the pipe of my car stalled. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Eventually got round to changing my clocks and my rev counter now works properly.

I have a problem with my car when i start my car it starts no problem then after about 10 seconds of driving my revs die down and there is no power i need to floor the accelerator to get it going then after about 1/4 mile it is ok no problems idles and drives no problem at first this was only when the car was warm maybe after being driven then left for an hour or so then it would happen when starting the car again. I've had a look through old posts for rough idle and i've checked the throttle body and the micro switch all ok i took of the ISV and filled it with carb cleaner left it for about 30 mins poured out the carb cleaner and it was clear. I seen on some posts that when you switch the ignition on the ISV should buzz I don't hear anything from mine with it of the car i put 12v directly on to the connector pins and nothing happened what should happen if anything also if my ISV was knackered would the idle not be playing up all the time?? Cheers for any advice.

check these 2 websites out some good info http://www.a2resource.com/index.html http://www.dubscene.net/eva2/

Can anyone let me know the easiest way to remove the exhaust manifold mines has a crack in it so i need to replace it. cheers.

Got the other problems with my car sorted body work damage repaired like a new car now and my no starting cutting out issues sorted so now back to my rev counter anyone know if I can do any adjustments using Vag-com to get it reading correct Cheers.

I done the heater matrix on my wifes pug 306 it wasn't too bad a job but garage quoted it as a 10hr job!! I had to remove the full dash to replace I took photos and put the screws etc for each area into seperate freezer bags to make it a bit easier to put back together I done it over a couple of days only thing i needed a hand with was putting the dash back in I just took my time and it was ok except for the usual dozen cuts and scrapes on my hands but saved a fortune. Its not to technical a job just got to watch when you refill the coolant you dont want to fry the head.

I had the same problem with my heater only working on 4 there is a thermal fuse on the blower motor that needs replacing I soldered a bit of wire over it to make the circuit that was about a year ago and no problems there is a fuse for the blower in the fusebox anyway.

Got it going thanks to the website links I got from someone from http://www.scottishvag.net/phpBB3/index.php I had a problem months ago with my external temperature sensor no earth on it and I just put an earth on it at the sensor end to get it working the sensor goes to the same connector as the ignition coil connector G1 on the back of the fuse box as soon as I seen that I knew that was where my problem was with that connector disconnected from the fuse box there should have been 0v to the coil I was getting 4v removed the next connector G2 and it went to 0v this was last night and ran out of light again. Went to it this morning reseated both connectors and got 12v on coil and car started first turn of the key. Thanks to bazoldskoolmk2 from ScottishVAG saved me lots of hassle. heres the links to the websites http://www.a2resource.com/index.html http://www.dubscene.net/eva2/