marf497

Tried another ecu out of a 91 corrado 9a 2l 16v same part number except no CC on end still got the same problem I only get 5v on the coil and the connector on the coil bracket it goes to what looks like a big transistor any help would be apreciated if I had any hair left it would be getting pulled out. Has anyone got a circuit diagram of the ignition on this engine or what could cause no spark any sensors that would cause this. Cheers. Mark.

Disconnected the ecu and I got 12v on my ignition coil instead of the 5v i was gettimg also tried disconnecting all the sensors near the metering head 4 or 5 of them and reconnected ecu back to 5v on coil and about 4v on i/p & o/p pins on connector for the hall sender should get another ecu tomorrow hopefully that will fix it.

Got another fuel pump and fitted back on my car only getting 4 volts going to the hall sender checked the wires back to the ecu and they are ok. Removed my ecu all the components on the board look ok nothing burnt out. With the voltage to the hall sender and the fact I can't scan my engine with vag-com I think it must be the ecu any ideas would be appreciated.

Had another look this morning and with the connector for the hall sender disconnected and the ignition on (not trying to start car) i'm getting about 4v on pins 2 & 3 my understanding is that pin 1 is earth pin 3 is the input to the hall sender should be 5v and pin 2 is the output should pulse when car turned over and be 0v until the car is turned over. Does the input voltage come from the ecu ? I've also got the fuel pump off the car at the moment would this stop me getting the proper voltages? I tried to scan my car with Vagcom but it wont see my engine never had any problems before with scanning my engine (Start baud rate set at 4800) it still scans the ABS no problems tried my laptop on another car and it scanned ok. Does this mean my ecu is causing the problems. Cheers.

Just checked voltage from connector when connected with ignition on i'm getting 0v from white wire(top) 3.8v from green & red wires (middle and bottom pins) when I turn engine over i get 0.14v from white and 3.4v from other 2 wires. Also removed earth from battery to body and gearbox and gave the earth points a clean with a wire brush.

I've been having bother with my corrado it was loosing power revs would die then be ok now it turns over but no spark from the coil when I put the ignition on I get about 5v at the coil when I try and start the car I still get the 5v I thought it should pulse to give the spark for the coil also should it be 12v?? I took the connector of the side of the distributor (hall sender?) and probed the 3 pins and got no voltages on any the pins would i need to try and check this with the connector still connected to make the cct. Does this mean my hall sender is knackered does this give the pulse for the ignition coil. I also measured the resistance of the coil and the primary winding was 0.7 ohms and between the centre pin and the input pins I was getting about 6.96k ohms having a search on the net for coil measurements they look ok. I don't want to replace the coil if it is ok and the same with the distributor. There's no immobiliser on the car I removed it this morning incase it was causing my problem. I have also changed the ignition switch, plugs, leads distributor cap, rotor arm. And to top it all off one of my fuel pipes is corroded with lots of petrol spraying out. Any ideas and guidance to point me in the right direction would be appreciated.

They are now telling me the fuel pipe is corroded and leaking. Would a faulty ignition switch turn the car over and fail to give the voltage to the ignition coil for the spark or would the car fail to turn over. Cheers.

Should have got my car back from the garage today after the bodywork being repaired but got a phone call from them saying they couldn't get my car to start their mechanic reckons the fuel pump is knackered but he also says there was no spark from the ignition coil possible immobiliser problem. If the fuel pump was knackered would that stop the ignition coil giving a spark??

Does anyone know if the 2.0l 16v has an ecu relay I searched but couldn't find anything I phoned VW thet could see one for the VR6 & G60 but weren't sure if the 16v had one. I'm having problems with revs dropping when driving and the fuel pump relay is getting warm done a search and seems the ecu and fuel pump relay look like a common problem. Getting a fuel pump relay tommorrow from eurocarparts. If there is a ecu relay can someone let me know the number on it and position in the fuse box. Cheers.

I had the same problem as you had originally with settings 1-3 not working I just soldered a wire across the thermal fuse and it all works ok just go back to your original blower motor and board and short the thermal fuse that has blown. I've had mine like this for about a year with no problems there is a fuse for the blower motor in the fuse box anyway.

You could try one of those fuel additives into about half a tank of petrol give it a good run and make sure the engine is nice and hot for the retest. Only other thing is a new Cat and lambda sensor if they are still the original then thats probably what you need.

I'll pm you my paypal account Cheers.

I have a spare USB lead that works with 311 i got it from www.ecutool.com they sent me a serial cable by mistake and I ended up getting a old laptop for VAG COM so I use the serial cable. You can have it for a tenner delivered i'll also send a copy of vagcom 311 if you don't have it. Mark.

Make sure the brown wire on the connector is connected to earth as I had this on my car and that fixed it VW charge about £20 for a new sensor.

My car is in the garage getting the back quarter fixed should get it back on Wednesday can someone please check their fuel pump relay and let me know if it warms up after a bit of driving mine gets quite warm it isn't too hot to touch but I don't know if this is normal. I've been doing a search thru the forum and it seems like I should change the fuel pump relay and the ecu relay also seen something about the ignition switch but my car starts ok so the ignition switch should be ok?? Cheers.

I've noticed if the weather is a bit milder like on friday and today then I have no problems with my car I also checked the fuel pump relay 167 and it seems to get quite warm don't know of it should be but when its colder outside i have the heater on hotter than when its milder so it could be that the temperature in the car is adding to the temperature of the relay and causing my problem. I'm going to change it and see if it makes any difference only thing is that on wednesday i'm going to loose my car for about a week while the back quarter gets fixed. Any ideas would be apreciated don't know if i'm clutching at straws but I don't think the fuel pump relay should be as warm. The rest of the relays aren't heating up just normal temperature.

Sorry forgot to mention I took the coil off and cleaned the terminals and the connectors also new earth strap from coil to engine block.I replaced the fuel filter a couple of months ago when I serviced it only other thing is that about 6 months ago the fuel pump fuse blew a couple of times could this be a sign that the fuel pump is on its way out?? Cheers only has any problem when engine warmed up I tried giving the cables and connectors around the engine a bit of movement with the engine running to see if it caused my problem but they seem ok. Battery terminals seem ok i've not had a chance to remove battery earth cable to see if any corrosion on it but my car is going into the garage on wednesday to get the back quarter fixed. Some woman ran into me and the garage reckon they will have my car for a week.

Forgot to say also changed the earth strap between the ignition coil and the engine i'm not sure if it is a fuel or electrical problem.

I've been having a problem with my corrado usually once the car is warm the revs drop to 0 for a second or 2 then go back to normal this can happen at any speed. Also sometimes when i'm just idling say at a junction or in traffic my revs will go up to 1500rpm roughly then drop down to near stalling (sometimes it stalls) then back to normal. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, distributor cap rotor arm and a new set of HT leads and still the same the only thing I can see is on my 4th injector (nearest air filter) it looks a bit damp no smell of petrol or any sign of petrol when engine running, i've ordered a new seal for the injector get it on monday. I also ran vag-com on my car but no faults showing. I did have this fault- 00587 - mixture control adjustment limit 09-10 - adaptation limit surpassed - intermittent, on my car since i got it about a year ago but had no problems with my car until recently. Any ideas and help would be apreciated. Thanks Mark.

I had this on one side it was the rubber boot on the cable had split and let water in and then froze I just leave it in gear and leave the handbrake off.

My car is still playing up after a couple of weeks of it being ok (still haven't changed HT leads been looking for the right ones for the fly lead on one of the leads think Beru are the ones to get) When driving today I done about 30 miles on motorway no problems but when I got to the town I was going to and stopped at a junction the revs died right down and stalled it took a couple about 5 seconds to stall and was really struggling to idle. I tried to restart my car and it started but was like when it stalled after a couple of attempts to start it started and drove fine. I parked up left it for about 1hr then when I started to head home it started no problems but after about 20 miles it lost power a couple of times when I was doing about 50-60mph the revs died down to 0 but the battery light stayed off the dash looked normal no warning lights. When I got home i pulled the plug of the ISV and the revs started to pulse I reconnected it and had to turn of and restart for it to idle normally. If it was an HT lead problem would it be worse when warm ?? Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers.

Cheers can I put any clocks from a 16v or would it need to be a 2l 9a engine ??

cheers might look at changing them in the future.

my speedo goes upto 160mph and rev counter is 6000 then red line at 6500 and my fuel gauge is 15 gallons.

Hi guys wondering if anyone can help me with this small problem. My rev counter at idle reads about 500rpm but the car is definetley idling a lot highter (sounds normal) when I drive my rev counter always reads lower than they should be this has been like this since I got my car about a year ago. Any ideas would be apreciated I don't know if the clocks are out of a different corrado or even if that would cause the rev counter to always read low.