Gareth_16V

Massive Back from the Dead, but my sunroof failed today. It will tilt on the button but not close, because the left hand slider has snapped. I've had to pull the left hand slider back manually to get the roof to close. The right hand side tries to close but this twists the sunroof panel. Does anyone have a list of parts I need to fix it?? VagCat is a touch vague; I've seen the part number 1H0898014A, which VagCat says is for left AND right, but they look handed to me. Am I right in saying that I will need to change the cable as these parts are not replaceable seperately? Does the sunroof need to come out if just one slider has snapped? (I assume so but you never know!) Any help you guys can give me is gratefully appreciated!

Does the mk4 master cylinder bolt straight onto the Corrado servo? Is it just if you want to swap the servo for a mk4 one that this modification has to be made?

Mine started leaking due to a badly-fitted screen, a bit of sealant down in the lower corner of the screen has sorted it out. HTH

Saw a dark green C on TT wheels (I think, it was pouring down and I was driving past at the time) coming off the wick meadows estate in Wickford at about 4:30. Anyone here?

On my 9a the two pipes in the throttle body elbow run to the back of the MFA (one nearest the bulkhead) and the airbox to move the warm air flap as David says. There aren't any electronics in the elbow itself. Have you had anyone set up the idle mixture? HTH

I replaced the guides in an 8v GTI engine that I rebuilt. New guides for that had to be drifted in and then reamed to the correct size, as they crush slightly when fitted. So to DIY you'd need some sort of tiny hone to open the guides out the fraction required. After you've done the guides you really want to get the valve seats re-cut as the bores in the valve guides will be in slightly different places. Could you not get someone to replace the guides and cut the seats and do the rest yourself?

As the discs and pads spend 95% of their time going forwards, the pads wear with a slight taper due to the clearances on the slider pins, etc. When they get seizy and the calipers don't back off properly, you reverse and the pad chatters across the surface of the disc, which reverbs through the whole brake/hub/axle/car assembly causing the awful noise. Lubricating the sliders/handbrake mech may help for a while.

If the gauge goes straight up it sounds like the wire that comes goes to the sender has a short in it. Might be worth checking that the wiring harness isn't chafing on something, and checking for continuity with a multimeter both to earth and to the gauge. If there's continuity to earth that's bad, if there's continuity to the sender that's good. HTH Gareth

Saturday night bumpage? Surprised no-one at all replied to this - have I asked a stoopid question? If the answer's out there then point me at it! Please! I'm an application engineer so it's my job to take off-the-shelf parts and make them fit other things!

I've done a whole raft of searching, and can't find a definitive answer to a question about brake master cylinders. What other brake master cylinders can be used on cars with the Teves 04 ABS system? I understand this has a larger piston dia than the "normal" brake master cylinders (24.something instead of 22.2?). So with genuine VW master cylinders approaching £250, can we use ones from a mk4 golf, TT, etc instead? These seem to be available for ~50% of the price from places like ECP for ATE parts. Obviously there will be some hurdles, like having to modify the brake pipes going from the master to the ABS unit, or having to use a different fluid reservoir, but does anyone have any info? I've seen a few of the engine transplant guys use different cylinders (and the matching servo in one case), but no-one's really gone into details about how they got them on there, and how easy/difficult it is. Looking forward to hearing what people have done before. Does anyone have a list of the different cylinders and bores?

Has anyone found a replacement for the clips that hold the detectors for the Scorpion 5000 / VAG 998 alarm to the A-pillars? One of mine has cracked and so the sensor is flapping about getting caught in the door or languishing on the dash. Anyone know where I can get a new one?

Hi All, I'm replacing the top mounts on my '95 valver, which according to the diagrams in the Bentley manual has top mounts like a VR (don't know if this is due to it being a very late one, 50-S-002137). Granted I'm not using genuine top mounts, which I know have been slated on here, but better a new short-lived part than a worn out original - FOR NOW! I have used the search, but can't find the answer to an assembly question I have. The assembly sequence according to the manual is as follows (starting from the bottom up):- Spring on damper Spring top plate on spring Top mount bearing on top of spring plate Washer faced nut on top of bearing Rubber for top mount on top of nut and bearing. But when I do it like this the rubber part of the top mount does not seat on the bearing properly. If I change the order to:- Spring on damper Spring top plate on spring Top mount bearing on top of spring plate Rubber for top mount on top of bearing Washer faced nut the nut is caught in the top mount rubber and the damper rod turns easier than the rubber on the top mount bearing. I'm obviously missing something fairly fundamental - I don't think I'm missing any parts as the diagram doesn't show any more bits than I've got. Is it just that the hole in the top mount needs relieving slightly to clear the nut? Or have I got the wrong model of top mount? Thanks in advance, Gareth

It's not a diesel, it's going to 6700 RPM! I'd say that it was too low for a 2.0 TFSI with a remap, so is it the 1.4 TSI twin-charged thingy from the Goof GT? Normally 170bhp? Gareth

Hi All, As per the title really, is there anywhere that does a complete car set of braided hoses WITH the conversion hoses? Looking to change my brake calipers due to low effort on the parking brake, according to Mr MOT man, and thought it might be worth doing the mk4 swap. If anyone knows where to get them (or could supply them) i'd be grateful. Edit - just been using the search and someone's said that using the hoses from a '99 Passat are also suitable for use with the conversion. Can anyone confirm? Cheers, Gareth

Definitely check the connections to the immobiliser control box which sits behind the driver's side dash undertray. This reads the signal coming from the reader coil and sends it to the ECU.

OK, I have a fuel injector question. I'm planning on using the cylinder head flange cut off an ABF manifold, and a 1.8T fuel rail (could be AGU?). Has anyone got any recommendations over what injectors to use in this setup, with a target of 280-300bhp? At the moment I've got the standard (3.5 Bar) fuel pressure reg, does anyone swap this for a 5Bar equivalent?

Mine did this suddenly, would start but then die after the 2 seconds. I fixed it by unplugging the immobiliser box under the dash, shouting at it a bit and then re-connecting everything. Worked for me. Maybe some of the connections just need a clean?

Bump for an old thread, but I have an ABF engine that I'm planning on rebuilding as a 16VT, but the engine number has rusted off the block. What's the best way to get round this? I have an the upper cambelt cover that came with it, that has an ABF number on it, but I can't be sure that this is the correct engine number. Is another block the only way to do this correctly?

Any plans to modify the forward/back throw? I find mine ('95 2.0 16V) is like throwing the lever on a set of railway signal points!

Sounds like an ignition electrical fault, especially as the rev counter was jumping. If it were me I'd check the engine earths first, especially the ones from the coil bracket to the head. Then have a look at dizzy hall sender, coil power stage etc. Do you know anyone with a K-Jet car you can swap ignition parts with to eliminate suspect parts?

If you do have the pump and bracket I'd be interested. Many Thanks

Hi guys and gals, I've done loads of searching on here and on the net in general over the past few days and can't find the answer, so here goes:- The background:- I'm in the very early stages of building an ABF turbo engine that will eventually replace the 9A 16V engine. I've got the ABF engine, which came partially stripped. It came with the alternator and a bracket, but no PAS pump or bracket (or so I believe). I want to retain the ABF alternator location to give maximum space for the inlet manifod, and use the standard ABF serpentine belt setup. The alternator bracket I have could possibly be the air-con type, as it has an auto-tensioner. My question is this:- Will the standard 16V 9A PAS pump fit the mk3 bracket setup? Do I just have to swap the existing pulley for a mk3 item? (possibly in addition to correcting the pulley offset with a spacer?). I've no access to ETKA, and VagCat is less than helpful as I don't know which parts are correct. Most of the posts on the net are related to Mk1/Mk2 Golf swaps, so most of the info out there has no mention of the power steering pulley save for "can I remove it completely". How have the guys on here running ABFs got round this? Any info welcomed!!

Right at the start of the thread someone mentioned using a VR6 clutch in the 16VT. How is this done? Does the standard VR clutch fit on the 16V 02A input shaft, or is a box swap necessary?

Was doing a similar thing the other day, and I wonder if anyone has the frontal area and drag coefficient of a 'Rado so that the aero load can be put into the spreadsheet too....

If the car's only used for short journeys at this time of year it can show the same signs as the start of a head gasket. Is the water level going down rapidly? Is there any mayo on the dipstick? And if there is is the level significantly higher than normal? If not, I'd get a sniffer test done by a garage before condemning the headgasket.