forcefed_vw

If you want a seriously noisy G60, sell it and buy mine! Look for the G60 200+BHP in the cars for sale area.

That is one big intake plenum! That must be 4 inches across!

Regarding the Eyebrow spoiler, in case people are still interested to know, it is a Mattig item, bought in Germany. I know the former owner as he is the other half of Radicool, famously known for the cobalt blue MK1 golf.

You need the "Theile Small" parameters for the specific bass driver. They will tell you about the internal volume of the enclusure, the length and diameter of the port etc. Some units don't need a port, it all has to do with the deisgn of the voice coil, the materials that make up the cone etc. When deisigned the enclosure there are some basic rules, ported or not. Try to limit the number of parallel sides, these cause internal reflections will tend to make the bass notes 'hang'. Make the MDF as thick as you dare and reinforce the long sides with internal bracing (you can use a pice of MDF with large holes cut into it screwed across the enclosure). Use glue as well as screws, the enclosure must be airtight (except fot the port).

Brown is the way forward, I would love a respray in Porsche Rosewood Metallic

Yuk that looks terrible! A 15" wheel with a 195/50 is smaller than a 17" with a 40 series tyre, contrary to what G60 Jet was saying. If you fit 17s you have to lower it more to make the spoiler as close to the ground as it was on 15"s. You will get some fouling on the inside of the front arches whilst parking, just ignore it. The rear arches will need to be trimed a little at the front edge as there is usually a part of the flange which protrudes a bit and as the car gets lower, the wheel moves forward in the arch.

I think you have to login to see them, they are right at the top under the list of modifications.

The larger the intercooler the less pressure dop it will create. Don't get the term "pressure drop" confused with a "drop in pressure". If you pass a give amount of air into a large intercooler it will have resistance due to the larger surface area and the fact that he air will be moving at a lower velocity. This is the same principal as large bore exhausts. The bigger the tube the lower the velocity and the lower the resistance ("pressure drop"). The only drop in air pressure you will get would be caused by a leak.

The black box next to the header tank is for the two stage cooling fan, the blue pipe is for a rather hastily installed boost pressure guage. The car is an almost daily driver, but once the engine has been made clean it isn't hard to keep it like it. I use "kitchen power" cleaner on the gearbox, engine etc work it with a paint brush and hose it off. In the winter I cover it all in WD40 or silicone spray and wash it all off again in the spring. Autosol and elbow-grease occasionally.

Use a motor cycle radiator or air conditioning radiator and a 12volt marine bilge pump. The pumps are as little as £12 from a chandlery and the rad can come from a scrapper. There is no loss of boost pressure with either system, unless of course it has a leak. There is a difference in system resistance ("pressure drop" is a term used to describe back pressure) and the less resistance you have the more easy it is to pump the air in.

The bigger the filter area, the less resistance it will offer to the air passing through it. Assuming the filter media is up to the job, the filter with the largest surface area will be the least restrictive. Conical filters work prefectly well if properly and regularly cleaned and oiled. They will make the charger noise more noticable because there is obviously nothing encasing it. Take a look at my own intake in the members gallery. It uses a 3" intake and a huge JR cone filter.

It's not the spoiler I'd be worried about, they just wear away! Next time you have it up on a jack, take a look at the driveshaft on the driver's side. I reckon you will find a load of underseal on it and a corresponding rusty dent in the chassis rail above it. My car is on 15"s and doesn't sit quite that low but I still get marks on the axle.

I really don't know how much power it makes, I have only dyno tested it once, before the CAt was removed and the Intercooler was added. Since then the Supersprint exhaust has gone on and the Charger has been flowed a bit more. I must get it remapped one day as it it still using the same mapping as it was when it just had a 68mm pulley. AMD next year maybe for a Rolling Road day?

I have just added a few pictures of my motor, and some of my intercooler, for those that are interested.

Samco are terrible to get hold of. I waited nearly 7 weeks for on of the elbows I used and it was only a standard 90degree 2.5" in blue! The rest I did all right with, £23 for the intercooler, fabrication work, free, aluminium pipes rolled and swaged at work for free, spigot thing for the air mass sensor, free, Samcos.....£120!!!

That looks very similar to my own installation except that the outlet from mine is lower down, below the battery tray, yours looks higher, are you having to re-site the battery? also mine is very slightly wider towards the drivers side, it's really hard to get the pipe work to fit, especially if you are making the whole thing up as you go. I had a load of pipe, a load of Samcos and a hacksaw. Looks good, you will find you coolant temperatures drop by about 10degrees due to the much lower intake temperatures, so even though the rad is partially restricted the head stays cooler.

Here's a picture of my Volvo T5 intercooler before I modified it. It is the same width as shown, but has has about an inch taken off the top. The outlet comes out between the radiator and the chassis rail, below where the battery tray overhangs and above the thermoswitch on the radiator. The ends where fabricated from 2mm aluminium and welded on. It has been on there over a year now with no signs of leaks and the boost guage reads 17psi on a good day, so if it was going to burst it would have done so by now. Richard Bloomfield

my intercooler measures 600mm x 395mm x about 40mm excluding the end plenums. It fills the gap from the chassis to the underside of the front panel and fits in front of the existing radiator. one end of the rad needed to move back about 25mm. Modified from a Volvo with new aluminum ends welded in place of the plastic ones.

I ahve a set of Chassis Dynamics springs in my garage which I used for a couple of months, they lower a G60 about 40mm so no clearance problems and a re not much harder than stock. I used them with standard shocks with no problems, there is not increase in bounce or porpoising. I took them off because they were nowhere near low enough and replaced them with KW coilovers and a "sump-buster" ride height. Yours for £30 +p and p if you want them.

I actually have a Mocal sandwich plate still in the packet which will fit a G60. I never got round to doing it. Make me a offer if you want it. PS the G60 belonging to Sy used to belong to a friend of mine, Will Stevens, it was fitted with a Golf Mk1 oil cooler which worked a treat and is very heap to do.

the screw compressor does offer a distinct performance advantage over the G60, even when the G60 is fitted with a 68mm pulley. The Lysholm compressor is better efficiency so doesn't create as much heat as the G-lader. I got almost to the point of buying one of these last year, £2200. what put me off more than anything was the noise, way too loud and the fact that a Corrado G60 without a G-lader is no longer a G60!

The scroll is, like all superchargers, driven by the crankshaft (in this case by a belt). The scroll IS the part that does the compression, there is no rotating compressor like you have. The one major difference in terms of air flow is that a centrifugal supercharger will make more pressure at an ever increasing rate as the revs rise, a G-lader is only an effective compressor up to a given point. Beyond this it only move air rather than compressing it. This is one of the reasons they are only designed of about 13K rpm.

Just a couple of points to add. Regarding the "intercooler/fridge system". It wil never work. 1) Your friends haven't considered the pressure drop (technical term for back pressure or system resistance against airflow). In a normal aspirated engine any back pressure in the intake will restrict the amount of air/fuel per revolution. 2) The dwell time would be too short for the fridge core to cool the air unless it was the size of the bonnet. 3) the compressor the drive the fridge wiuld draw far more power than the engine makes 4) the whole thing is irrelevant because the air has not been compressed and therefore heated anyway. Another point, there is no boost pressure loss when using a large intercooler. The pressure remains constant but the velocity of the air in the core will decrease. This is desirable as the velocity in the system is directly proportional to the back pressure. The dwell time will also increase meaning that there is more exposure to the cooling fins. i doubt that charge coolers work any better than Intercoolers. I have seem both fitted to G60s. Charge coolers are easier to install in tight spots and give better cooling in traffic (until the water in the rad gets hot too). My intercooler works superbly even with 17psi.

You don't need to remove the boost return pipe with the ISV reroute, just block off the connector where the ISV used to connect to it. If you remove the booost return you will not benefit from the oil vapour from the crank case breather which helps lubricate the charger and you will get the foul oily smell in the car. Bahn Brenner reckon it will also reduce the life of the charger due to charger "shock". The charger has more pressure on the exhaust side which forces the scroll over. When you change gear the is a sudden loss of pressure which shocks the scroll. They (BBM) reckon this is reduced when the return pipe is fitted. I personally prefer the whistles from the return pipe than the Boy racer Dump valve sound.

Actually it isn't a centrifugal charger. The G-lader has a moving (recipricating) scroll which is driven by a crankshaft or cam. As the cam rotates, the exposed end of the scroll graps some air from the intake, then chases it around between the faces of the scrolls until it is forced out of the centre outlet of the charger casing.