Richie_t

A little while since I have been here For sale with much regret but it is just sitting wasting away. I really don’t want to sell it but its what I’d call a diamond in the rough. It will be the perfect fixer upper for someone. I spend most of my weekends out of the county so have no time to do it myself. 1992 2.0 16v (9A) on a J reg with 157024 on the clock and most of a service history (stops 2009 when it came off the road) 95% original car, only modifications I can see are speakers in the parcel shelf and different head unit. Has been off the road for 9 years this month and is all a bit of a sad storey in itself, I have known the car for 11 years but only had it for 18 months This is a project car I was going use in to make my g60 as close to original as I could and then make the 16v into a 1.8t track day car with all the ‘’go faster bits’’ I have spent a fortune on over the years. But lack of time and possibility of relocating across the country I have decided to find it a better home. Bad bits Non-runner in the last 6 months the main fuel pump has packed up otherwise drives fine. Being Red is really faded from years in the sun but I have T-cut a patch back to its former glory with minimal effort. 2 small areas of rust worst is a hole in the drivers sill at the front end (wing off job and the car still has its original wings which is a shame) the second patch is surface corrosion on the N/S/R arch, the N/S of the car has been painted at some point and I suspect this wasn’t dealt with properly before the paint went on. Otherwise there is no rust on the car (I’m a mechanic and have had it up on the ramps at work and underneath the shell is spotless. To get an MOT (I am a MOT tester) due to the nature of being stood for so long all the brakes (discs, pads, hoses and pipes) all sus bushes and front arms need replacing. All tyres hold air but I would trust them. Bonnet cable is broken at the handle end Front bumper mount on the N/S is slightly damaged form the car being parked in a ditch at about 10mph. Other than a gap of about 15/20mm between the bumper and the wing you wouldn’t know anything has happen. I have access to a body dozer and was going to pull it straight over the summer but never got round to it. Good bits Very original car, very straight other the bits mention when the engine ran it was sweet as a nut idle perfectly and rev’d freely with no bad noises. Car is located just west of Okehampton very close to the A30. There is a possibility I could deliver it of meet half way. I’d like £800 for it but I’m open to insulting offers. I have no idea how to post photos but please PM and I can email or whatsapp them across.

I believe it is standard size 2 1/4 inch the system fits onto the standard cat as well if not using the resonator box

Hi all I have a full Miltek Exhaust System with resonator box (decat) so is a 3 box system sounded great on my g60 and didn't drown out the charger Asking £200 for it Was originally for early G60 models but the hangers have been converted to late type hangers on my G60 should also fit 16v if lambda boss blocked with bolt Is in good condition has had some welding done on the de-cat which I haven't ever had fitted but is used. clamps good but need new bolts Tail pipe is still shiny. Located near Okehampton Devon Can ship, collection welcome or can delivery within reasonable distance PM me for more details/ pictures which I can send over whats app as unsure of how to get on here. Regards Rich .

Hello Sorry about no price, what I'm asking is £2000 but make me an insulting offer and see what I say if you like. Rich

Hello I have just converted my Corrado from G60 to 1.8t, I was going to keep the engine stored under my bench as is a great engine runs and pulled superbly but plans have changed. Full running G60 engine code PG being sold complete apart from flywheel and clutch Standard bottom end with approximately 90k Standard cylinder head and cam was rebuilt by Dave Tissel Aka man in shed has covered approximately 4k (this was a cash in head job so no receipt sadly) Jabba sport stage 4 charger with 68mm pulley done at same time as the head and have all receipts for this also have receipts for 2 previous charger rebuilds ECU has SNS chip to suit 68mm pulley Rallye charger outlet genuine Baffles sump with windage tray Mocal 11 row oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate (standard heat ex-changer remove)(Jabba sport cooler kit) Miltek 4 branch exhaust manifold with lambda boss added and custom pipe to fit standard exhaust after the cat (effectively a de-cat pipe) Jabba sport induction kit with adaptor and heat shield, K&N filter all same age as charger rebuild Injectors have been flow check when charger done again was a cash job at a friendly garage but all in good order Water pump was genuine fitted in 2010 Wiring Loom has in good order but has been opened up and cut sensibly where it goes into the fuse box Plugs, leads and cap genuine replaced in 2012 and covered approximately 5k Boost pipes including custom pro-alloy with IAT sensor boss to suit sprinter intercooler (have run this set up in MK1,2 golfs and Corrado) You have probably worked out a lot of work was done 4000 miles ago either by myself (I'm a level 4 JLR and ATA master technician) or Jabba sport. Michael at Jabba set the car up after all work was done and was very pleased with how sweetly it ran. I then drove to and from Spa for a 2 day track day where I clocked up 400 miles on track it never missed a beat and surprised many owners of very expensive cars, I absolutely love this engine and its with huge regret that I'm listing it. Have always take great care to warm up and down, service regularly and most importantly never over rev or hold in gear for prolonged periods at high revs Engine is good to go just needs an oil change currently has Jabba sport supplied Liqui Moly 10w40 at Spa oil temp never rose about 105 degrees If I haven't bored you and still interested PM me Engine is located near Okehampton in Devon, willing to ship, delivery or buy collect. Regards Rich

Hi All I have been out the loop for a wheel, and mainly out of curiosity what sort of money are good condition g60 chargers making nowadays? Have come to a point with my corrado where I'm not sure what route to take and working out the value of it. Sorry if this isnt the place for this sort of post. Thanks alot Rich

This could be as old as the hills but im so happy with a, how easy it was to do and b, how cheap it was free to anyone witha corrado infact and c, the results Anyway Im a mechanic and finsihed the jobs in good time today so I had a rummage through a load of wiper arms in the parts bin to see what I could fit to improve the all too well known rubbish nature of corrado wipers. Then it clicked and all I have done is add a little more curve to the orginal wiper arms and hey presto the wipers clear the screen perfectly, it was even raining for the drive home and I was smileing (sad aint it but we all know how bad the are normaly) Basicly I have just bent/curved the arms so the blade is about 10mm further towards the screen and that is it can even be done on the car! Like I said proably as old as the hills but dead chuffed I came up with it on my own and its free. Cheers Rich

FRom the info on the website the cnc big valve head uses +2mm valves so 42mm inlet 35mm exhaust

I know my top mounts are up the creek when the car starts knocking over bumps and pulling off etc or they are sticking thorugh in the engine bay a bit too much. Rears dont have such a dramtic effect on the car but will give a fair amount of slack and allow the car to roll alot more when turning. Id say get a set of genuine fronts the set I ahve just brought were 15 each i think for vr6 ones and while your changing them physicl check the dampers of them by pulling and pushing the shaft in an out, you should have a nice even drag with no dead spots of fast movment, if ok put it all back to gether have a test run if still poor turn your attention to the rears and do the same. Its all too easy to let things slip, I give mine a good look over ever friday lunch time at work if the pit is free but then i only make note of what has fallen off and then take way too long to get round to changing it I went almost a year with out 4th gear, got so use to going from 3rd to 5th on my first few over takes I got into a bit of trouble as i forgot i had a working 4th. anyway good luck findingg whats wrong

Hello Im about to screw my g60's cylinder head back on and would like to know the torque and stretch stages, also with out sounding like a totally anal pratt id like to know how tight the manifolds should be, I had it all written down years ago but cant find it anywhere. Thanks alot Rich

Speaking from a mechanics point of veiw, I dont wnat to be rude but a properly trained technicain will always do a better job however he wont have screwed things up with as much love and care as you but it doesnt mean he has cut corners. Also any decent garage will change low cost items if they are about to fail and should ring the customer up if its more costly. Its a massive up hill battle keeping garage customers happy, if you change it you have spent too much money if you dont and it fails then they wont be back as you did a so called bad job. We have some that say if it needs it change it and then moan at a 250quid bill where as other say make it cheap adn dont bat an eye at a 2grand bill. Back on topic as for getting you corrado on the ramps most MOT'ers are pardon the french but massive see-you-next-tuesdays as all they do all day long is find faults on knackered cars and quite oftern say ooh thats too lower when they haven even looked at it (have had it loads with my corrado), ring aroud a few stations and ask if them there ramp is sunk into the floor (will save loads of time over driving around) or is it mot'd now? As for your break downs all part and parcel of an older car im afraid or you have a friday car, my g60 was a friday car until i got ti and changed everything but even so every 6 months i need new top mounts due to somerset roads and no matter how ont he ball somethign isnt quite right they are just a massive labour of love but worth it for that ear to ear smile when everything comes together.

Moveing the battery to the boot is pretty easy, just have to be really carefull in the routing of the main positive lead and that is properly protected against chafifng through!! I made a little frame up that bolts to the floor in the back of the spare wheel well, unless u remove your fuel tank (to drill holes, fit bolts or weld) the battery has to be right up to the rear panel. But to be honest for just a cold air feed moveing the battery to the boot is all wasted time unless its something u want to do for doings sake. I moved mine to make way for a massive intercooler.

2 very easy why to tell if the head gasket is pressuising thew water system. One is hold a exhaust gas analysa over the open rad cap when running (for a small blow) If head gasket is total gone between cylinder and water then if you remove the rad cap even when cold and run the engine the escaping comperssion will litterally throw the water out with the cap off. Both ways the enigne will be using water if its gone.

Seconded

Mine has this excat same problem but only does it some days completely random but when it does it it literally only the first 20 second the car is running Another earth to check is the one for the ecu on the lamba plug down on the right had engine mount (left hand when veiwed from the front) The only things i havent changed yet on mine is fuel system, going to service the injectore at some point this month and leave a fuel pressure gauge on the car for a few weeks. Might sound daft but whats u ignition timing set too? Good luck Rich

SOunds like maybe the diff bearing witht eh extra load from the drive shaft pulling on it when turning maybe? With regards to the cost of a gearbox refurbish rather bluntly you get what you pay for, I have been told by many different people that with these gearboxes if you change one bearing you change them all!! which i can tell you will cost way more than £350, 2 syncro rings and 2 seals cost me 57 quid alone. Id say around the £600-£700 mark is about right for a sensible non genuine recon You coudl try a cheaper one but from experence with gearboxes at my work 9 out of 10 cheap rebuilds are trash Id say try your mates passat box or just the drive shaft first as less work Rich

Cheers for the reply Its not how high the temperatures are that is my problem its the sudden rise of about 20 degrees normal operating temp

Hi there I have beening fighting the aged old battle of high g60 running temps, however mine were normal then got really hot/warmed up much faster than liked in the oil dep over a period of afew days, normal oil temp is about 112 when thrashing it. but i was gettting temps of 120 just crusing at 70. So I sctrached my head flicked through service history and came to the conclution that the charger was due a rebuild, change a few cooling system bits while the charger was at g-werks. Water temp was always up at 110 (might seem shocking but with a diff sensor the gauge never moved but hoses always felt about right) but its now at a nice 90ish mark But oil on the other hand is still high, its fine when on flat or down hill but was drivning to woolacombe last night and the oil temps up the hills were close to 130, im still running the charager in but basicly this is the oild problem still. I havent ever checked this before so cant say if its changed but how much do these babies breathe out of the rocker cover? say when the oil cap is off how much do the puff out? not got any smoke but can feel the gases about a foot about it, from other vehicles this should be none. Im thinking the head gasket is blowing into the crank case thus increasing oil temps and causeing the breathing out the rocker box. Any thoughts, hints or advice would be greatly accepted before I go spending more money on wild geese but I cna think what else it could be, oh yeah engine mileage is about 70 thousand, was rebuild in the cars history but no milage shown just a date. Cheers for making it through my rambling Rich

I had the same trouble with my speedo, swapping the pick up at gear box would fix it for a few hundred miles then back to nothing or random readings, turned out the loom to the clocks from the fuses box was complelty toasted all the way up its lenght, this could also be the pil light problem too

Sounds like it isnt the gearbox if its only when turning! I'd looking into wheel bearings again and then other sauspension compnents like brakes and possibly drive shafts for wear. my corrado would grind on right turns was the disc on the caliper due to worn wheel bearing. As for a gear box rebuild, ask any vw turner in this country and they pretty well all send them to a vw main dealer, I can recomend a chap in somerset near wellington who will do a top job but it will cost about as much as any main dealer.

Oil cooler not head gasket, when head gasket is gone either the sump gets waster in it or the cooling system gets the gases from compression into it and basicly over presurises it.

A mate of mine ran a 100 shot on his internally standard 1.3 polo 8v took it like a champ until the nos solinoid jammed open and rev'd the poor thing to titty land and beyond. something like a 30 will be fine on any engine really (well unless a proper weak engine which most vw ones aint) and just have to make sure you igition is set correct, and have quality plugs, leads and dizy cap (just new vw will do for a small dose) budget will deside most things for you with regards to system spec etc enjoy

I feel you pain there weather or not your g60 is sluggish not quite the same as a mk1 golf reving its nuts off is it I miss my old gti so much, chip and charger could ahve alot to do with it, get aboost pressure reading that shold tell you alot.

I have done that fine bodge many times, altho on the last one I did the bolt was so seized into the nut i ended up with no bolt left sticking out because the nut i welded on just kept shearing the bolt off a bit further down like i had about 9 foot pipe on the end of the bar, in the end some chap off here sold me a subframe posted for about 40 quid and had loads of other offers of around the same, ment 2 days were lost but wasa cheap n easy fix

Give the clutch a bleed, just like brakes they need the fluid changing every few years, this is the cheapest fix you can try really unless the return spring has come off, in my experence 99% of the try its hydrualic. Good luck