marshole82

i managed 34.8 on the way home from my mates, down country lanes at midnight - didn't see another car and was in 5th doing 25 the whole way lol

learn something every day :) shame - i think orange would look alright lol anyone know of any companies that will produce 15*8 wheels in 4*100 pcd? scouring the net for some but not having much luck

yeah that's the problem - don;t want to pay some guy in greece £25 for it considering how nickable they are once on lol

ebay'd 4-slat coming, 16v grill badge is being hunted for and so are some nice wheels for future car-mendments ;) quick question though, the indicators in the bumpers - are they orange as standard? mine are clear and i i'm not sure i like them....

i have been trying to find one of these for about a month now and no-one breaking one seems to have the red grill badge anymore! has anyone out there with a valver swapped their grill for a de-badged and still got the 16v badge? contact me if you do, i'd really like to complete my standard look :luvlove: the one i want looks like: Eternally grateful Oli :notworthy:

hmm not so sure on the roller method - i agree, fantastic results and really shiney finish, but i'm leaning towards a matt paint job or, you could cover the car in chalk board stuff and just draw on it all the time

they working alright mate? i know you only ordered them yesterday but.....why aren't they on yet? ironically i bet you are waiting for a dry day to fit them :grin:

Matt from Matlock...love it :) wish i could afford a vr but my KR is thirsty enough :(

... adjusting CO correctly: £0. How does one do that for £0? :lol: From what I've read you need an emissions tester in the exhaust sniffer pipe and monitor this while adjusting it? or am i wrong? fairly easy i am led to believe! it needs doing on my KR but i don't have the allen key to do it.] [someone correct me if i am wrong] - run the engine up to temp - it should be idling at 950 (+/- 50). if it isn't then adjust the idle speed screw to get it right. - you will now need what i can only describe as a fookin long 3mm allen key - if it's anything like the KR set up there will be a whole when you look down between the metering head and the air intake pipe that comes from the airbox - you turn this acrew in the hole, i think the anti-clockwise will enrich the fuel, clockwise will thin it out. - you should thin it out until the engine practically stalls, then enrich it about 1/8th of a turn at a time until it idles smoothly remembering to remove the allen key after each 1/8th turn like i said, haven't tried it myself yet but will be soon, and anyone in the know feel free to tell me to shut up so long as you correct the bit(s) i got wrong :lol:

damn you with your perfectly working car! yay someone with the same issues as me :) yes, wllingborough is ok - you can join in :) surely there must be more than just us 4!! i know davidwort is a wootton man, so thats 5....

new tyres!!! whoop! the previous owner had 185-65-15 on the sebrings! put it in the tyre calc against the correct size and it was 46mm over! so i have technically been speeding the last two weeks :shock: so i now have some new 195-50s on she drives loads better :) practically had my own pit crew though.... lewis hamilton ain't got nothin' on me :cuckoo:

indeed it does! will check the connection of the coolant sensor on the block first, the sensor on the header tank is fine as it is registering heat and low water correctly. need to find the switch at the other end of the loom before i check the clock stuff.

i was led to believe it was the power steering belt! oh well, the steering was somehow better!! :shrug: maybe they meant that it was running next to the smaller belt which runs the PAS pump?

hey people, i'm from northampton, wondered how many other people are from northamptonshire / bedfordshire / oxfordshire etc? close-by sort of thing. name: oli car: 91 1.8 16v issues: sunroof, windows, alarm, central locking, tracking, fuelling, gauges, exhaust, floor pan holes, oil leak come on, who in my area can beat that list and still actually drive it to work day in day out? :notworthy:

haha no chance - i can't cycle 2 miles let alone 7! check out my newbie thread for how this turned out - i'll give you a clue...it went well ;)

hey all 91 valver shownig no coolant temp so i need to check the connections on the back of the pod - how do i get it out?? alos, the fuel gauge goes down if i am going down hill, and up when travelling up hill - is the normal?/ ta, oli

ok, so i have had problems! since draining the coolant and doing all the bits above i have been experiencing some odd things. the coolant temp light flashes at me and today it stayed on the whole way to work. luckily i didn't fry the engine as i found out that the oil temp and water temp are linked and will be pretty much identical, and the oil temp was 90-100 so a'ok. but this light was pissing me off and worrying me so did a bit of research asked a few people and most pointed towards naffed thermostat or water pump. i was sure it wasn't the thermo as the prev owner had a new rad and thermo in may this year. at lunch i messed about with it and ran it with no fan and no header tank cap. it promptly boiled over and spewed about 2 litres of water everywhere. so i topped it up and went back to work being that i only have a short lunch. fingers crossed for the drive home. on the way home i nailed it, red lined all the way plus getting stuck in traffic all the time, plus some clutch control on a hill and not a sign of the dredded red light! diagnosis: airlock tonight i have attempted to remove the clocks to get the temp guage working. got all the plastic off the front but couldn't get to the wires to disconnect them so had to put it all back together! still, i spent 5 minutes moving the alternator to tighten it up a bit and what great news; it's attached to the power steering belt! and it's made my steering so much lighter! all in all it's been a good day :)

hey arnau, the part number i used was vw one 027919501 which looked like the middle one : with the gsf version (£15 for all 3!) which look like the one on the left in the photo. hope this has helped

this is slightly good news :) however, i will need to sort the clocks out - i'm hoping that it's the witred connecting into the clock and i can just sort that easy..... just worried to drive it in case i fry it, but i need it to get to work :(

i dont have a gauge at the mo! it doesn't register anything so need to check the connections first. if it sits at 10 what is wrong exactly? the thermostat? i have just replaced all the coolant sensors with 120degree ones from gsf so should all be ok. i was pumping the hoses when it was in the process of warming up and the level was indeed moving. the oil temp stays around 102 in traffic and when driving on a relaxed run sits at about 84-94

help meee! after sorting out the idle issue and re-filling the coolant the coolant temp light comes on permanently after about 20-30mins driving/sitting in traffic. as i understand it, this means either the coolant is too hot, or there isn't enough. so i look and the header tank is at max. i've ran it with no fan on and no header cap and it just bubbled over, i have since topped it up and pluggedthe fan in. i'm yet to try it on the way home tonight. other than an air-lock (which i am praying for) could it be thermostat? water pump? anything else you lot can give me to try before having to replace more bits?

haha didn't realise you had updated! might be worth checking these bits anyway whilst you source new bits for the other issues

hey dude, had the same issue with mine. with the ingnition in position 2 are you getting a buzzing noise from the isv? if not then there is something wrong with either isv, the wiring to the isv, or the coolant temp sensor that sends the signal to the isv. also try checking that the throttle touches back on the idle microswitch on the throttle body. this switch also sends a signal to the isv so could be contributing. i've just solved this issue on my valver but am relatively new to this sort of thing.

good to see that you all dislike the cheap option!!! surely if you take your time you can get a good finish. i've refurbed wheels with halfords paint and that is notoriously bad, but they stood up to high temps and bad weather without any cracking. addmitedly a whole car is a wee bit different but the principles are the same : prep well, get a good finish. that blue roller'd rado looks awesome, lovin steels and the tucked look :)

i've seen a few nice golfs being done over on e38 and i think it'd be a really good laugh for a weekend. beer, pizza, mates, paint....deadly combo. but at the same time i am worried about what sort of finish i'd get. the rado is never going to be a show car, not unless you throw serious money at it for bodywork / paint / retrim etc and to be honest i think that you are mad to do that to a sub-£1k car that is old enough to buy ciggies. the idea of a re-spray colour change for less than £60 is really appealing...