C-UNIT
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Everything posted by C-UNIT
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The car currently is Helious blue metalic had some doors replaced and have 2 clean wings, stripping as much off as possible been quoted around £1500 I do love helious blue but was thinking space grey metalic seen on the bmw m3. So far i have mixed opinions keeping it original vw dub color is classic .. opinions appreciated Thanks:thumbleft:
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Thank you some intresting ideas suggestions..think i need to get some measurements done and see what i can fit without too much cutting up i am aiming for max 300bhp so want something capable to handle that flow. will report back Almost forgot has anyone used the plate and bar coolers in comparison to fin type i saw the mosihimoto universal coolers come with lifetime warrenty at affordable price http://www.mishimoto.co.uk/mishimoto-universal-front-mount-intercooler-r-line-black.html
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Problem now fixed!! l got the door cards off both doors...the driver side actuator didnt seem to push up or down quite stiff so i removed the door lock catch and found the lever which the actuator connects too was proper stiff and needed a good hard push. I think the spring or something is a gonner so i have located another catch will fit asap. the actuator without the catch now works but i still get overun from the pump.. Turns out on the passeger side the vac pipe had come loose and will conect up have tried pulling the vac pipe to get some slack to push in but is coming down behind the speaker grill a mission to get too but wil get to it soon and in theory should resolve the pump issue and activate both locks happy days!!
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My dilema i have a 20vt in my raddo and a FMIC mounted infront of the radiator about 600 x 150 x 2.5" thick core I have gone with the Cr turbo hybrid KO4 there top spec and JBS cast manifod not seeing full potential in need of a bigger cooler..has anyone done a custom fitt with something around size of 600 x 300 x 4" thick core nlet/outlets 3" the overall length may come to 700 in length ive seen some fitted with modded bumper where they have cut some of the rebar behind the bumper to get more room. If you have modded your bumper and fitted a big fmic pls post! I am going to get some measurements done take that damm bumper off again fun times!! If have a pic which i will post up soon of a raddo in the states..he cut the front lower grill out but also cut more out to allow the intercooler to sit lower exposed looks awesome!! I think i wil need to cut few bits to allow room may be od a brackt to hang it of the slam panel.. will let you guys know how i get on!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]69593[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]69594[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]69595[/ATTACH] Personally this is looks amazing if you need to go big intercooler, i probably woouldnt cut that wide just where the cooler will sit and wont see the pipes finally spray black to blend in or grey i'm having my raddo sprayed space grey metallic after months and month of going mad on deciding this finally. Thoughts opinions appreciated! Thanks:thumbleft:
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Hi In need of some help pls! Recently had pair of doors fitted from a vr6 to my 16v as the original doors had major rust, the looms also been replaced from a vr6. All doors open fine electric windows now work, when the doors were fitted all associated wiring vac pipes were connected. The central locking pump which is original 16v will now not fit to connector so i got hold of a vr6 pump pluged it in and gave it a go..when i trigger my alarm i can here the pump whirring and runs for about 45sec can here a click when stops thinking my doors have locked but the doors do not lock or boot do need to check boot again. From reading the forum i have found 1st check for leaks in the vac pipes which i have checked and cannot hear anything checked connection at t connector behind fuse box all connected up no leak there. Something i found is my driver door lock pin does not go up or down when pushed or pulled this is something i also need to check, could be that when the door was fitted the door lock lever or something has not clicked in place or connected as should, if the door lock pin cannot be pushed up or down to lock has this any affect on the pump not allowing it to push anything causing the regulater or something to not operate as lock pin is stuck?. Passenger door lock pin is fine pull up and door opens and push down the door is locked.but even after pumps stop passenger door is still not locked...so this leads me to think could i be that unlucky and both doors have 2 faulty regulators . I have been also told you may not always hear the leak so i will also check front passenger door and check the vac connecter there. Never had this issue so i am sure someone may have experienced this may be regret changing the doors but if you saw the rust it just had to be done plus side i have electric windows. If anyone has anything that could help please post or wish me luck! Thanks for your time c-unit:thumbleft:
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they look awesome too nice wheels!! You guys have really helped me with this one, i have decided on the team dynamics pro race 1.2's in anthracite 7.5 x 17 et35 may be 8 x 17 et33 i recently found a link at there wharehouse hopefully get them for cheap on discount. Really like the porsche rims to but with the adapters tyres etc will run over budget also thort its always good to keep a spare incase will report back with pics once all is done as always thank you
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They are mint mate look a perfect fit, thing is i have a 4 stud set up and recently brought the brembo calipers off the seat ibiza 305mm discs, do the adapters change from 4 x 100 to the fitment of the wheels. how much are the adapters? something to consider if it all fits and they go over the brembos is my main concern. my current wheel 7j x 17 et40 and a deep dish so spokes are recessed fine over 280's. Thanks
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Thanks for the replys will look into the porsche and oz wheels, from researching this i know its a difficult one as all alloys are so diffrent. nice 1 guys ---------- Post added at 7:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:46 PM ---------- sorry also forgot to ask if you used spacers? from having a quick look the oz seem to be et35 they look nice too thanks
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Hi All, I am sorry to post this and probably has been answered, i have spent time searching the forum for a list of wheels will go on the raddo with the brembo 4 pot set up from ibiza, My current wolfrace kendo 7j x 17 et40 with deep dish stand no chance!! even with spacers I have been told the team dynamics pro racer 1.2 go down to et20 possibly lower Also read that a min of 7j x 16 and et 35 will work ? I really like the BBS RS reps cannot afford originals but i hear they are 8j x 16 et30 (4 x 100 pcd) possible ? they have deep dish and thinking deep dish may not work? Your advice support is appreciated! Much Thanks
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Thanks for the advice much appreciated this is why i love our corrado forum! Think i have now decided that i'm going to stick with the audi a3 seats alot cheaper than golf r32 also will be needing them retrimmed thinking of overall costs, i have seen the audi s3 seats in a raddo and look nice just personally think the a3 sport seats are more comfortable hold you more. once in i will get sum pics up.
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Hi been planning on a3 seats with some mods to bases to fit my raddo, will GOLF R32 MK5 2006 seats fit with mods?? Thanks Sanj
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Fantastic news, will take a look think they look awesome! Thanks for reply
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Hi All, Please help planning on either re-trim original seats or was thinking if the audi a3 seats would fit, appreciate there may be some cuting and welding required not really too sure. Anyone who may have done this please help advice appreciated! Sanj
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Nice i seen them apprently the guys who selling them you want we have have a ebay store and they are out of stock, they have universal runners will they be a direct replacement for corrado as the measurments of seat are same to corrado seats. or does standard subframe fit to these seats. Let us knw how u get on with fitting them may be a pic they will look well nice..how they comfort wise in comparrison to corrado seats.
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Has anyone seen these before, i found a ebay sore called what you want we have, they no longer sell them The pair were selling for £289 with unversal runners to fit corrado Any help appreciated sanj
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Guys need of some help Please, currently using koni TA with some old jamex springs, the drive feels harsh over potholes and defo that wallowy feeling but still handles well, running 17's, have not got any strut bars etc or rear arb. I have heard so much good things about the weitecs i'm thinking what the ride will be with weitec springs and koni TA's all round. I dont know much about the spring rates etc also weight of my 20vt Has any1 tried this combo? my main aim to improve overall ride, midlands has some of the worst roads in uk personally and speed humps dominate...not to mention cctv lol Some grate info already on this thread! Advice appreciated! :D
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Hi Peeps Not sure if anyone has had this problem before but any help advice would be really appreciated! I have a converted rado 1.8t and from what i know the engine runs hotter than what the standard temp gauge is set at, when i had the old 16v engine as soon as the temp would rise above its normal temp range the warning led would start to flash which is how its supposed to work as far as i know. the problem i have is this engine sits just above the set range i think and hence the led continues to flash, i know the water temp is fine and the fan kicks in when it should.. never ever over heated so far. I have been told that there is a resister behind the temp gauge which sets the tolerance and may be by changing this or some mod that is possible will sort the issue of the led constantly being on. what i found after changing 2 temp gauges, is it will work fine for few weeks with the led always on.. then it just dies. I have now got another working standard temp gauge sourced from identical dials.. on a mission to get this working if i can, i know the easy fix would be to just get a standalone temp gauge. This is all so that i can keep the standard look. C-Unit
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All i can say...is see what you can get your hands on, i remeber when i was sourcing a bam engine it was a mission and a half and i didnt get oppurtunity to see it running took a risk but lukily enginge was fine. I had mine converted at Midland Vw known them for a while so kinda sorted me a good price i would say shop around. The bam is the one to go for, not sure on how much they are now tho. Other than that bowy is it worth every penny when its running write!! eveyrone has there own opinion but i went for custom code ecu and it pulls like crazy and still cant get over how smooth it is. Keep us posted on what you get TAKE IT eASY!!