Jump to content

pumbaa

Members
  • Content Count

    430
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by pumbaa


  1. I'm looking to fit an uprated clutch and lightened flywheel. Any ideas on what else VAG will fit? Maybe some kind or tdi clutch? Will a mk2 or mk4 clutch fit? Sorry identity stupid q's, I don't know too much about clutch / gearbox assembly.


  2. Lighter tappets = less weight for the cams to push so in theory (in my own head, someone else might want to throw in their 2p) should be more freely revving, we are talking on a micro scale here but with a valver.... every little helps!

     

    I think you're right there dragon, from what i know its a trade off between power up top or grunt down low, a vernier pulley alone will only ever advance or retard both cams at the same time, in order to play with inter-cam timing and achieve the highest possible output torque and/or bhp wise you need a vernier pulley on the exhaust and an internal vernier sprocket on the inlet side. You can then set inlet and exhaust to open and close as soon and as late as possible and play with overlap. Gains will will be minimal unless you're going turbo but as said before... every little helps! :D

     

    Hence why i'm after a vernier sprocket at a reasonable price and not from Lithuania.

     

    What vernier pulleys do you guys have, and are the woodruff keys built in or separate?


  3. I'm running a flowed & skimmed abf head and cams, DG map and setup, stainless & 4 branch, flowed throttle body and inlet manifold, removed snorkel and some brand spanking new injectors. I will be running a cold air feed soon too. Need to get it on a rr but haven't had the time. I think 200 horses might be optimistic but i'd be well pleased if i got anywhere near 190. I cant say the abf cams made it feel anymore peaky than the kr i had in my old mk2 i'd probably say its less so but i only drove it briefly for 2 days before the re-map and it's not that 'peaky' now. I'd be very interested to see what the kr and abf's produce side by side.

     

    The abf inlet has both higher lift and duration than the kr and the exhaust has higher lift but less duration than the kr. Also the abf's have an overlap which might help things higher up the rev range. One thing you will notice with the abf's is the engine cranks once or twice before firing when starting due to the overlap.

     

    Will let you know results when i finally rr it. I have also been toying with the idea of twin exhaust cams but i've heard i may loose a fair bit of pull lower down the revs and when re-building the engine i have some running issues and so stuck safe with a matched pair of cams.

     

    I have a windage tray yet to be fitted but tbh i thought that was really to help keep oil in the sump when cornering hard much like a baffled sump.

     

    I also have a 'kent' vernier pulley im wanting to fit but i can't seem to get hold of the right size woodruff key. Any ideas?

    Also, i was under the impression a vernier pulley would only really shift the power band up or down? Have also been searching for a vernier sprocket at a reasonable price for a while but no luck. ANy ideas on that one too?

     

    And finally, i was under the impression that there were very few differences between the 9a head and the abf head? I know the exhaust valve seats on the abf actually match the valves unlike on the 9a and kr, and that early kr's had larger inlets and smaller exhausts, but i also thought that the later 9a's had an abf head anyway?

     

    Also worth noting that abf tappets are lighter than kr/9a tappets and abf valves are held with 3 ridge collets instead of 1.


  4. Not the best brand but i do remember 'mutant' doing a stereo you can connect an ipod to, flip down the face and chuck it in.

     

    I've got a pioneer unit that hooks up to my iphone, handsfree is really good quality. The ipod lead comes out of the back of the stereo so it can be routed to the glove box or centre console cubby hole.

×
×
  • Create New...