Dox

It shouldn’t be difficult to source a good used dash, if you’re near Crewe I have one myself.

UK VR6s are OBD1, this precedes OBD2 which scanners are designed to be used on, hence there use is quite limited. are you distributer or coil pack? You need a plug lead removal tool to get the leads off the plugs, yanking on them will damage them. Some cars still have these clipped to the bonnet stay, otherwise it’s eBay I’m afraid. https://ebay.us/m/dJ1JU5

Check you have the correct plug leads to the coil pack Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Busy week. is £70 posted ok? I can’t see any on eBay below £100

Looks like the motors were riveted onto the door (can’t remember). Postage would have to be Saturday (unless I get an early finish one day). Both off a late storm I broke Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I seem to remember the motors mount at the front of the doors and curvature will be the same as the door glass. i kept mine as just in case 😜

I have both but never marked which side is which lol

You should have an emissions print out from the MOT fail?

EMISSIONS HELP CO high, co2 low hc high, o2 high - rich mixture with ignition misfire CO high, co2 low hc high, o2 low -faulty thermostat or coolant sensor CO low, co2 low hc low, o2 high - exhaust leak after cat CO low, co2 high, hc low, o2 high - injector misfire, cat ok CO high, co2 low, hc medium to low, o2 high - rich mixture CO high, co2 high, hc high, o2 high - injector misfire, cat not working, combination of rich mixture and vacuum leak CO low, co2 high, hc low, 02 low, good afr and cat operation- system normal . lambda typical range 0.97 to 1.03 [ ideal lambda 1 ] The emissions limits to be met are specified for both the fast and normal idle tests. At fast idle, CO must be at or less than 0.2%, HC at or less than 200 parts per million (ppm), and the lambda value(1) must be between 0.97 and 1.03. At normal idle, CO must be at or less than 0.3%

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It does sound like HGF, if I remember correctly the 8v suffers with cylinder 1 (cam belt end), remove the plugs and check the tops of the pistons for carbon, a clean piston would indicate an issue as it’s been steam cleaned by the coolant. hth

I think you've missed the odd word out there? I assume you had to push the meter probe further into a fuse holder? So basically you had a circuit that could read 12v with your multimeter but had connections so poor it was unable to carry the current needed for the pump to work?