Emkayvr6

hi im after a drivers side exterior door handle if you've still got it please cheers Mart

hi just had tp pay more for a headlight than i was budgeting for so door handle will have to wait until next month, sorry to mess you around, will give ya a shout next month and see if you've still got it, cheers

Hi do you still have the drivers door handle for sale? i take it its in good working condition? if so can u give me a price posted please cheers mart

As above im after a driver side headlight for a VR6 and a drivers door handle so i can get the old girl back on the road, cheers Mart

Hi if big blue doesn't want the handle could you let me know how much you wanted for it posted, im in need of one too, cheers

All sold elsewhere now thanks

Awesome work and thanks for the detailed thread. some interesting reading.

I'd been keen for one too if a good solution can be found as mine is bodged together at the moment. keep us posted

yep can confirm that too. Replaced my slam panel couple of weeks ago, got sent a non vr one and the rad mounting was miles off and the shape was different on the top part in places

Cheers for putting them up, will try them down my local stealer....did the cable come with a little metal clip on at the pedal end??

^ yep, looks and reads like it shouldnt be too hard but trust me it only takes a moment of doing the wrong thing and your into needing some repainting, We have to flat polish the fresh paintwork on the Aston's at work and remove all the orange peel through sanding and then polishing, Its not hard when u know how but a moments lapse in concerntration and it goes quickly wrong and it heading back into the booth for more paint!! Doesnt please the painter's or bosses much!! i would recommend having a go if its something you'd like to have a crack at and your prepared to make a mistake and then need to paint, which might well be on the cards anyway, but if you dont have a lot of patience for that sort of thing, then forget it leave it to the pro's.

Gutted for you, never nice to have your motor pointlessly vandalised!!! I cant really tell from the pics how deep the scratches are, but i polish/paint for a living and you'd be suprised what can be made to look a hell of lot better by a skilled polisher, sometimes the scratches you think will come out easy dont and the ones that look really bad do.....if you werent so far away from me id come and have a go for nothing, but i think probably best thing to do would be to find a detailer local to you rather than a bodyshop 1st and see if they reckon they can sort them or not, i say detailer 1st as they are usually more careful polisher's and wont be looking to push towards painting where as a lot of bodyshops will look at the job and think more about maximising profit rather than whats gonna cost u less, which will mean they will push towards painting, your probably be told, "we'll have a go at polishing but if we cant get it out and burn through we'll have to paint it". In some cases they will have a genuine go at it but more often not it will get a quick 5 mins of careless polishing and burn through. There are scratches that wont come out but there are some that if done right will. There are decent genuine bodyshops out there but they seem to be the minority rather than the majority these days! At least if you've got the detailer's opinion and he says nah mate cant get that out, then its coz it wont not just coz he's tryin to get more work out of you.

yeah it was 4.69 & VAT, it was in stock, same part no as above and that was stourbridge VW. The plastic clips that hold the windscreen trim in place had to be back ordered but it only took a day. Thought mine were bound to break when i removed the trim, but all of them were intact after i pulled it off....typical, can bet if i hadnt ordered them they would have all broke, lol, still got some spares now!

They must have become obsolete pretty quickly then as i brought a seal from the stealer a few days before christmas did u give them a part number or just ask for the seal?

interesting, i tried to get a new bonnet cable from VW last week and they couldnt get me one said is what obsolete??? Can u post up the part number when it arrives please?? cheers Mart

hi, im based in the west midlands mate at the mo, should really changed my profile been here for 2 years, lol

hi, would you take £25 plus pnp for the 2nd drivers light, the one with the good backing but broken lense??

oh sorry mike i removed them from the text as just sold them on ebay forgot to remove the picture

bump

Hi all Got a few bits for sale to help fund gettin me rado back on the road Corrado VR6 gearbox - in good condition, Ran sweet before i took it out. 128K £125ono. Collection only although might be willing to meet/delivery if not too far from me (west midlands) MK3 Golf Central Locking Vacuum Pump - £20 posted I have also got a mint set of All Red rear lenses for a MK2 Golf, have been proffesionally done but i couldn't find them with the rest of me stuff, will be wanted £40 for them when i can find them, so if interested let me know and it'll spur me on to start rippin the house apart to find em. Oh and a set of Yamaha R1 carbs if anyone is interested. Cheers Mart

yeah I'd say bring the colour blend out a little further and clear the quater, blend the clear out on the rear pillar as this keeps it small and try the fade out blender, just get it in an aerosol, its not worth the hassle of cleaning guns out just to spray a little mist over the blend. By clearing the whole panel it will give your room to flick the last coat of base from the edge of the arch into the panel rather than follow the arch round. Dont spray the base too wet, although this tends to effect metallics more than solids, but just wet enough so its not dry if that makes sense, it doesnt need to be full wet like the clear, this also allows it to flash off quicker and reduces the chances of solvent pop. with metallics the wetness can lighten/darken the colour more so than with solids ( i'm guessing your using solvents, just as its easier to work with when u haven't got a professional set up) i might have just told u what you already know but it might also help someone that doesn't, anyway just ask if you got and questions/problems

Its is possible to blend out on a lot of areas on the Corrado, just need to know how ; ) We do a lots of Aston's and Jags at work and quite often blend on the pillar's if doing a rear quater or roof, we use a fade out blender, a bit like over reduced clear coat, Fade the last coat of clear out before you reach the soft edge of masking, it will be dry at the edges but lightly misting the fade out blender over the dry area will melt the old and new clear together. It will leave a small slightly dry dull edge when you remove the masking but this will polish up nicely with a bit of 2000 and compound to leave an invisible blend with no line or dry areas

2-3K for a decent windows out, bumpers/ bonnet etc off is about a right, if there is no major panel repairs or rust. expect a bit more if there's is some damage on your car. Offer cash may sometimes get u a bit knocked off, if your can strip everything off 1st it will save u more than cash most the time, again if you refit u might save a bit but be sure to fully check EVERY bit of paintwork before collecting it from the shop for post painting damage/ unsatisfactory finish. Most places that will do a decent job wont be too keen on painting someone else's prep work, especially if there using waterbased paints as it's requires a little more attention to the prep than solvents for a top finish especially on lighter metallics. With the old 2k paints, you could hide a lot more and not have to prep to as fine a grade of sanding. Choosing a decent shop is quite important for a decent job, have a look at the workshop and it can tell you a lot, if its full of dust with old bits of paper and material scattered around and cars with thick dust all over them and a paint room with inch thick paint on the tables and floor with old tins of paint everywhere than more than likely you wont get the fnish your looking for. Ask to have a look at some of there work, if they do good work they'll be more than happy to show it off to you. Dont get me wrong a little dust and that is too be expected and the only bit thats needs to be real clean is booth but if it looks like a right **** pit you'll probably best looking else where. Having worked at both ends of the spectrum startin at the cheap blow over **** pit to currently working in high end super well equipped paintshop there is a vast difference in quality and price and at the end of the day u get what u paid for!!

lol, it can get a lot more expensive than HD mate! Engine sounds good mate should add a bit more spice to it. :D

Rado's looking sweet matt, yeah that HD wax is pretty good, i like it better than some of the higher end waxes