Wild-Animal

its pretty impressive, it took him 10 years to build! He learned all the machining himself!

http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/1m7KsW/www.themysteryworld.com/2011/09/guy-built-lamborghini-in-his-basement.html

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-15975564

You can use standard brakes lines, if your going to all the extent of changing calipers and the lines then I would change the flexi s as well.

Keep the pictures coming : ) its good to see such the attention to detail

Hey its a high chance you have an up rated wiring loom for your headlights these up rated kits deliver the full 12 volts from your battery to your headlight. How to check is if you look behind your passenger headlight. If there are fuses or relays behind the headlight then you have an up rated wiring loom. What to do is take the relays out and the fuses, you can open the relays up to see if there is any moisture damage and the fuses look like they have gone misty white if they ave water damage. Even if you see its one relay or one fuse thats out, I would advise changing both relays and both fuses as they could be damaged as well. Once you have new relays and fuses installed then get some cloth wrap tap, or something similar to insulation tape and wrap the fuses and relays so they are water tight. If you dont insulate against the water then its pretty much guaranteed to happen again further down the line. Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------[/size]

Its gonna cost them a fortune, it could be worth reporting it to the police incase they dont end up paying the full amount. Its not fair on the parents but it would not be fair on yourself if you had to pay. Sounds like the little kid won't be getting any christmas presents, or should i say the litle sh*t

Hey if its an uprated loom for your headlights and it is not fully water proof, then I would start of by checking the connections of the uprated wiring loom, if no luck, then change the relays that are behind the headlight and change the fuses, as its only one headlight thats out you could swap the relays and fuses over and see if your other headlight stops working instead. Then you would know the fault. Even if its the one relay thats gone or one fuse, I would recommend replace them all as they could all have moisture in them, then fully wrap them in nylon cloth tape or something similar to insulating tape to keep all moisture out.

Okay that would be great if you could let me know Thanks

Hey I am after a diaphragm pressure switch for a 1.8 KR engine Number 4 on the picture, thanks Pressure valve.pdf

Hey for getting the exhaust system of the car as you are changing the manifold, then (don't quote me on this) it could be easier taking the manifold off while the exhaust is still attached to it. If you want to take the exhaust of the manifold first then make sure you have a elbow that joins onto your extension and can rotate to accommodate for another degrees of angle to get at the manifold nuts. A deep scocket as well If I remember rightly some of the nuts on the manifold are fine to get with a normal socket but one of them is a bit of a pain. and also a bag of patience

I will vouch for you water proofing them, I have had a hell of a time of water getting into the relays and fuses, its by far worth making them water proof.

Hey thanks for the in depth detailed reply! I will pop in it the freezer when I can I will keep you posted on how I get on

The bearing should be pressed into the back of the disc, before going onto the rear axle stub, as you hear a click when they are in properly. I was told this by a mechanic. I put my bearing back onto the axle stub then put the disc on, I had to re tighten my rear wheel after 50 miles , not by much but that was proberly why

No i believe you have to select a box to have the item put in your sent box as well as sent to the recipitant

If I am right testing your temp sender in a tub of water won't work as it wont be earthed. I am sure someone else can clarify this

Hey I tried swapping the the WUR and the cold start injector for other items, to of which came up with the same results. I will check the resistance of the WUR The 3 temp sensors I have swapped the wires about and I have checked they all work, due to the same reading of the temperature gauge. Thanks for the info about the sensor on the back of the block I will try and check the resistance on the Overrun cut-off valve, its something I have not tried yet

Okay I will do thanks

Hey thanks for the reply, I have cleaned the ISV out numerous times and I have tested the voltage to it, and i the ISV does seem to work I can here it buzzing. Thermotime switch thanks for that bit of info! I have tried everything I could think of so I may try and pick one up second hand and see if it does the trick.

Hey I have been having problems with my 1.8 16 valve running properly during the warm up thase. The car idles drops to 200rpm when ever the throttle sits against the idle switch. I know the KR engine has 3 sensors below the distributor and I have tested all 3. I was wanting to find out what the brown plug, below the 3 sensors, what is it for ? and also the there is a sensor on the back of the block in the engine bay with a single wire. I am trying to know what they do so either I can test them to see if they are causing the problem Any info would be great, thanks

Okay I have got another cold start injector still the same results, I change the WUR for another same and again it never changed anything. Any ideas ? I checked all pipes for vacumn for leaks,found nothing, since it runs fine when its warm I would think the vacuum pipes are fine I have adjusted the throttle body but due to that I now think its back firing as I hear a popping noise from the back off the car when I down shift and its using a lot of fuel. I cant use the micro switch for the throttle as when it rest against the switch, it kills the revs warm or cold same results. When the car starts up the revs are fine for 10 secs then the revs drop to about 200rpm and continue like that until the car has properly warmed up. Then it sits fine at 1000 rpm which is fine. Does any one know what all the adjustments are for on the throttle body?

yeh it will have a part number, I don't know what it is unfortunately. If you are ordering from VW and don't know the part number then go into the parts department so you can point at on their screen, to make sure you get the right pipe. If you are going to the hastle of changing the pipe then, it would be worth giving the others a clean up and a paint. Depends on how far you want to go you could drop the housing and the brackets for fuel filter and fuel pump housing give then a clean up as well. as its a lot easier changing the fuel filter once the whole housing is down. Also the fuel pump housing has rubber bushes that get tired with age, its a lot easier doing these all at once than having to come back to them. If you change the fuel filter make sure you get new washers on either side of the filter ! they are a must I done all of this and wished I had done it all at once !

When you get a toque wrench, make sure when your not using it you have fully backed it off so its not sitting about being under load.

I know which line you mean, I got mine from the dealer it was £35. If you take all the pipes off in that area it would be worth cleaning them up and painting them and poppping them back on .

http://www.youtube.com/embed/oflneAdB0Do?hd=1