Wild-Animal

Yeah check your passsenger side headlight, have a look behind it to see if there are any fuses or relays, if so then you have an uprated headlight kit. If the kit is open to the elements then change both relays and both fuses, halfords sell them, that way you know they wont have any water damage,if this solves your problem then wrap the relays and the fuses in insolation tape that wasy the moisture cant get in. It should prevent any further problems. I have had a hell of a time with my uprated headlight kit lights kept cutting out due to the fuses or the relays getting moisture in them. Let us know how you get on

The car will handle so much better ! it makes it worth while The most valueble thing I have learned is patience for when everything goes wrong at once...

You dont have to take the clocks out, to get at the hose all you have to do is take the lower panal of and get up behind the clocks, as you cant put the pipe on then put the clocks back into prostion as the bit of pipe I don't thin is long enough. Save you some extra work

Nice, its looking good, I bet you cant wait to get it back on the road

"I had to smile at the garage. I didn't even need to hand them the order receipt for the parts. I walked up to the counter and they recognised me and just handed the parts over. I never used to get that with the Golf :)" Its even better when they offer you a discount ! :)

If you drive a bit further south to Munich there is an even bigger beer festival, Oktoberfest fest......

So the fuel pump and the lift pump. The lift pump was tricky to change there is a metal coupling that holds onto the lift pump connection so make sure your not in to big a rush in changing it as I had to take my time to removing the old one carefully. The in line pump was okay to change, I made sure I got a Bosch one as I wanted to make sure it would give me the correct pressure.

I removed the fuel tank and the rear bumper. Then blasted the tanks straps and rear bumper bar, treated them to some Zinga and under sealed twice. Replaced the bolts also. Since the tank was off I gave a good clean outside and inside removing any bit s rubbish in it. The car was never the best to start when it was warm so a while back I changed the injectors so it starts fine now when its warm. You can see a picture of an old injector it looks pretty past it. The injectors must have been leaking. Still the car was not the best for starting when it was cold, so I have replaced the in line fuel pump, the lift pump, fuel filter and I had changed the accumulator a while back. Now it starts a lot easier from cold yeppee Since I am heading up uni at sunny Aberdeen I changed the rear brakes from the Mk2 rears to the Mk3 rears, safe to say the difference is huge on my last M.O.T I had big problems with the handbrake efficiency. So I changed the discs as well and fitted a new heat shield. So there is a picture of the old calliper which I will be glad never to see again ! Also I fitted the in line fuse for the headlight switch it only took a couple of mins to do.

So I have fitted a new fan to the radiator this is a pic of the old one, the whole fan assembly was moving backwards and forth so at some pint it would have self distruct, so I changed it before that happened.

So keeping myself busy with firends cars and my own, my friends Capri needed some welding done especally on the headlight holder, the A pillar, front vallace and also the floor. Well basically its ford .... So got that all sorted. He recently got the car resprayed in Matt black so its looking smoothe

Thats fantastic news ! all those years make it worth while. Glad to hear made some thing of your degree ! congrats

Hey there is a high chance a upgraded wiring loom was fitted to your headlights as the corrado headlights while standard don't get the full 12 volts and are pants. The way to find out is if there is a couple of relays behind your passenger side headlight, if there is then there should also be fuses. Now speaking from experience I have had hell with these things due to the water getting into the fuses and the relays. this could be your problem. So check them if in doudt swop the relays to see if one is faulty.

Hey, I had the same prob with my callipers if you have access to a high pressure air line then fire the air into where the break fluid enters the calliper making sure the bleed nipple is shut just make sure your fingers are not in harms reach of the of when the piston exits as it comes out with some bang.If still no luck try cutting away the front lip of the dust seal as this makes life easier as I presume you are changing the seals. Also when you are refitting the seals just be carefull when fitting the dust seal as it can be a pain. I put the dust seal onto the piston first then fitted the seal into the calliper while it was still on the piston, as when you use the piston winding tool to push the piston back home,well my ezperience was the first seals I tore it. enjoy! It is rewarding to know you are still using the same brakes after you refurbed them.

I use a 6 tonne trolley jack, Its for using on tractors ! But because its so big its so much more stable, I would say go for a decent size. As for Halfords jacks..... I would go elsewhere there small jacks are from what I have used a pain in the butt and it ended up loosing fluid not after very long. The best axle stand I have ever seen was in a srappy with one side of the car being held up by a brake disc lying flat and another disc sitting inside it verticle holding up the side of the car. Safe to say I never put my head under it!

Well if someone had gold teeth they might be interested?

Hey it looking really nice underneith, I had the same prob with changing the handbrake cable as it turned out to be slightly shorter, also it could be worth going for a quick blast then hooking your hand brake cable on that way the pads will be in the correct prosition before sitting the cables in place

Sounds like you done the right thing by getting witnesses, someone at my work got pranged into by someone who tried to go into the lane in front of his car, by which there was no room for him to even get a whisker in there never mind a car. They pulled over the chap never said a thing other that it was his fault. Further down the line, the accident which happened over a year ago has not been resolved. The guy who got hit my work college has a brother who use to be in insurance so after it happened he skipped onto the insurance database to check out what was happening. He found out the other driver had blamed my friend for everything even saying in his statement that he had taken full liability for the accident admitting it was his fault. So when his brother told him, to say the least he was not very happy. The only thing which would have helped would have been a witness. As they are both effectively blaming each other. On the plus side my friend got a phone call form his brother a couple of weeks later saying the dude who hit him had just crashed his courtesy car !

It looks fantastic You must be dead chuffed !

if that does not work then a tow start might be a best try, since its been sitting for so long

While your steering wheel is still on you can look on the underside of the steering wheel between the wheel and the indicator/wiper control stalks, there should be a copper strip that has to make contact with the the brass ring on the back of the steering wheel to allow the horn to operate, if you have had the steering wheel on and of alot it may have been bent so there is no longer any contact. Worth a wee looksy before dismantle

Hey, I popped the cover of the back of my central locking pump when mine was not working, the little plastic tags hold it on, and I could see moisture was sitting on the circuit board I presume that was why mine had stopped working. So I replaced the unit with a second hand unit it could be worth a looksy . Also the foam it was sitting in was damp so I dried it out and wrapped it in a clear polly bag to prevent moisture reappearing.

The cable is connected to the end of the throttle pedal by a small hook onto a rubber bushing, what to do is disconnect the cable in the engine bay so you have plenty slack. remove the interior trim right next to throttle pedal, this will allow you to remove the lower dash, once the lower dash is removed you will be able to squeeze underneith and see the throttle cable and a bit of wiggling the cable should be able to unhook. from there you work remove the cable. Work it free from where it enters the scuttle area , not sure about the rest as you VR6 will be different after that ! "Yes everyone, the cable will stretch. At least two of you seem to be scratching your head over whether a few strands of steel wire will fatigue over time. Ummm........" I think its more to do with the cable chaffing rather than stretching, like I said there is a sharp 90 degree bend and the cable is pulled through the corner and it rubs onto the cable causing the cable to adventurely fray

Hey I stripped down my rear brakes recently and the pins for the carriers I had removed cleaned, resealed and greased up. The the pins with the flat tapers went to the lower of the two carrier holes so if you place the carrier where they should sit, onto the car ,the pin closest to the ground should be the one with the flats, well thats they way there were on my car ! Hope this helps

Hey, it could be the same issue I had, there was a delay in the throttle response. I put it down to the throttle cable. I removed my throttle cable to see if I could put a bit of grease down it, but on closer inspection the cable had started to fray just ever so slightly and it was causing the cable to stick. Mine is a 16v but there is a sharp 90 degree bend just inside the cabin and that was the point were the cable has started to fray. What a differnce once I replaced it ! So if your unsure about ordering a new throttle cable , whip it out first and have a look at the end with the 90 degree bend is where you should find the fraying. The symptoms sound exactly like mine Hope this helps

how about green callipers ?