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In my opinion I'd rather use 4 than 2 but its whatever you feel safest with. We've always used 4 stands in the garage to keep the cars of the deck so they don't flat-spot the tyres. When swapping diff's engines etc they have always been as safe as houses and don't move an inch. Having just said that and at risk of repeating myself its whatever you feel safest with that counts. I never would've considered the legal side of immobilising a vehicle on the street. one of the MK2 Champ boys built his racer in a car park! I never would've even considered that but he beat the odds.

I used 4 and it felt fine. Hats off to you for working in the street mate :notworthy:

Someone else may have a better suggestion but in the past with MK2's i've always used stands on the jacking points at the rear when tampering with the beam "in the field."

I've recently fitted a new head unit and have noticed that the RH speakers are only working very faintly, even when the fader is switched to the full RH position. I had the same problem with the previous head unit, as it was very old I assumed the issue was with the head unit itself. I have verified that all the connectors are present at the back of the new head unit and that the RH speakers are connected themselves. Has anyone encountered this problem before or have any ideas of where to go from here?

The blue ones will release some pressure if the cooling system becomes over pressurised for whatever reason and in theory will stop hoses blowing off or the rad rupturing. Most of the guys who race the MK2's run the blue caps just incase, but under normal circumstances they make no difference.

You've got the right order but its ribs to the body work with the bush on top. 8.8's are fine run them on the race car and they get lots of abuse from curbs and other drivers.

It is not paticularly indicative of good handling having a large amount of preload on the spring as described. What you can do is buy some longer springs from a Motorsport parts supplier, (I recomend Rally Design), that will enable you to drop the platforms & maintain the current ride height and also give you a greater scope for adjustment in the future. To assatain the correct type of springs you need find out the rate (lb or N) of the fronts and rears, measure the un-compressed length and the internal diameter. At a guess from my experience with road kits on MK2 Golfs you'll be looking at a 250lb, 10.5 inch (9 inch being pretty much the standard), 2.25 inch spring. The best thing to do is measure the spring and find out exactly what you have at the moment. Forget refitting the helper springs they are just to keep the main spring seated at droop. Adjusting the damping doesn't effect the ride height of a vehicle.

In a mainly road used environment you'll be lucky to get a year's use out of them. They are usually sealed units that cannot be rebuilt. If they can be rebuilt you'll be lucky to find someone who will do them for you. I used to have a set of top adjustable KONI's and EIBACH springs on my MKII when it was on the road and it handled like a dream. I wouldn't hesitate to use this set up again if I needed too. It might be worth going down that route as the height adjustment/corner weighting is of little benifit at all for road use. If your doing any track work please disregard what I have said and wait a while and buy some more middle-top end units H&R, KW GAZ PROTECH, LEDA etc

You'll have to disconnect the brake lines to drop the rear beam. I can't help you with the ABS sensor query unfortunately.

Has anyone any thoughts on the Pioneer DEH-600BT head unit? I've recently bought a mint 16v and I am in the market for a new head unit. I'm open to suggestions if anyone knows of better unit too.