Diamond Hell

Now sold. That's all, folks!

Now for sale: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=89827

95M black Corrado 2.0 16v with ABF engine I?ve had the car since 2009, when it was bought from the user Horney on this forum. It came to me with the 9A, but the KE-Jet injection system never ran right. I replaced this with an ABF and loom from a SEAT Cordoba. The ABF runs on the OEM Digifant3 management. It has the high-flow cat from the Cordoba and a two-box stainless system ending in the OEM tailpipe. It also has 280mm front brakes, replacing the 256mm standard brakes. After the ABF was installed in 2009 I took it off the road and it was dry-stored after a change in jobs meant we didn?t need two cars. It was re-commissioned December 2013 and has been used daily until December 2014 when I fancied an Alfa. This has replaced it on daily duties (although The Wife is now demanding a Touran to replace both the Corrado and the Alfa). Before it was taken off the road the lowering springs were replaced with OEM springs and new OEM gas dampers, which have done about 10k since installation. The front splitter needs replacing after the short period I owned it on the 100mm lowering springs. The sunroof tilts and slides as it should, the electric windows work, including the one-shot The spoiler goes up at 50mph and down when the vehicle stops, as it should The central locking works on the key. It has a key for ignition and one for locking Body is very solid ? has not been welded and doesn?t need welding Original owners manual and large history file included In the last year it has had: New front and rear Zimmerman brake rotors and OEM pads Replacement rear flexible brake hoses (braided) and hard lines on the beam Replacement OEM rear beam bushes Replacement handbrake cables New sparkplugs Replacement crank sensor Replacement stitch-welded front control arms, with new front bushes and rear bushes upgraded to Audi TT solid bushes (sharpens the steering) It has 162k on the odometer and was MOTed today (23-01-2015) and will be serviced (oil, oil and air filters) before sale Bad points: Scratch on the passenger door Various other marks and scuffs on panels and bumpers Gear-shift is sloppy ? I have a Golf4 replacement shifter and mech to install. May do it this weekend Can be supplied on 5-spoke 15? Ronals with 6 month old Michelin Pilot Sport tyres in excellent condition, or on 16? wheels from the donor Cordoba, if you have other wheels you would like to fit Pictures tomorrow ?1750ono or ?1600ono on Cordoba wheels The car is located just outside of Yarmouth, on the Isle of Wight. I am happy to collect you and take you to view the car etc Call Thomas on 0777 585 4268 to discuss it, or email [email protected] List Date: 1/24/2015 Location: Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, United Kingdom For more info, click here to view the original listing: 95M black Corrado 2.0 16v with ABF engine -------------------------------------- SOLD -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: 95M black Corrado 2.0 16v with ABF engine Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Lordy, I've not said much since I put the new tyres on it! Control arms were stitch-welded and had TT bushes in - pretty much standard for any Golf2/3 platform car I run. I also replaced the rear beam bushes, so the whole thing is tight as a tiger and really works for 'fast road driving'. The Michelins really are feckin' great. Got this rather fine shot a while back, which summarises why this car, really: Finally got round to polishing it, too: That was mirror-glazed to sort out four years of accumulated grime from sitting in the workshop. I need to get out the Super Resin and wax it before it gets covered in winter road grime. Despite the ride height (which some may view as catastrophic) the front splitter is in a right state. It continues to delight me regularly. The only thing it *really* needs is a tubular manifold to open up the ABF. I do also have a Golf4 tower and shift assembly to fit to it at some point in the undetermined future. I've spray-glued the sunroof lining back on twice now, but the bloody thing refuses to stick up there nicely. :scratch: Mrs Hell would like me to sell it 'so we can get something newer'. I am unsure about this course of action.... but offers are always welcome.....

Dan (not me, I just know the guy!) has now reached his target on Kickstarter and would like to talk about setting up group buys for these, if folks are interested. If someone wants to get in contact ping him on [email protected] tell him Mr Hell sent you.

Toyo R888s are great. I've used them for years and the car feels like it's on tiptoes when it's not on them. Federal 595s also supposed to be fantastic. Michelin Cup tyres supposed to be a step up again, but they're not made in so many sizes. DO NOT go Paradas - terrible reputation on track - rain: no grip and overheat easily in the dry.

Oh, try somewhere with lots of run-off to start - Bedford might be a good call. I've done a lot of days at Combe and love it, but 25% of track accidents in the UK happen at Quarry! If you have time/budget I would also recommend getting -2 degrees of camber on the front of the car - it'll turn in a lot sharper and you won't trash the outer shoulders of your tyres. Oh and make sure you get rid of any clutter in the cabin before you go out on track - it's all missiles in the event of an off. If you want a video camera in the car be prepared to have it on a strap AND the mount, or have it double ziptied to something - track day organisers don't much like them either!

There is no scrutineering (at any track day I've done). All they are interested in is that you meet their noise regs. Neither are they interested in the certification of your lid (motorbike lid normally seems fine for the have-a-go-heroes) and your car won't need an MOT/tax/as mentioned there is no insurance. They may want you to have covered arms and legs. The Blue Book is not relevant unless you're racing. The simple rule for whether you should do a track day is: don't risk anything you're not prepared to lose in a moment. As people have said service and check over the car thoroughly. Make sure your wheel bearings are all good. Change brake fluid and make sure there's plenty of meat in the pads. Also make sure your motor is continent for oil and water (no one likes dropped fluids as they cause accidents!). Don't go for super-fandango racing fluid etc - just flush the right spec of new fluid through the system - use cheap as poss - new cheap fluid is much better than expensive fluid that went in 6-12 months ago. I would avoid fitting a 'race seat' and harnesses, because to make it safer than the 3-point belt and OEM seat you need a cage with harness bars as well as a shell seat and 5/6 point harnesses. If you want to go crazy buy a CG lock for your existing belt to give you a bit more 'security' in your seat. Harnesses bolted down to rear belt mounts will crush your spine in an accident.

I've had work done by JNL Racing: http://www.jnlracing.com/ JP is probably one of the best engine builders in the UK and I'd definitely go there than a 'tuning shop' which seem to be the options other people are suggesting.

A mate of mine is a draughtsman and has started doing these recently - they look cool as hell. Some of the samples he's done are kick-a$$ He's currently running a Kickstarter project to get properly kitted up to produce them. If you want one of these of your Corrado, why not get on the project here: Might get one of the Corrado :)

They'll fit. You might need Golf3 top mounts at the front, but that should be it.

Don't know? Who has? Will those microns and surface areas *really* matter on cars of this age, if they're serviced regularly? Guys at an independent VW parts specialist who dealt with the OEM manufacturers directly and they didn't think there was any difference between the parts supplied to VW vs those supplied 'own brand', but I guess that's just their opinion?

Believe it or not, there is no 'special sauce' added to VW OEM parts - they're mostly just the same stuff with a different stamp on them. :?

'all'. Yeah. You might like to see if you can use the complete engine bay wiring harness, because it's a PITA to separate the rest from the engine's loom. I would actually adapt the headlight plugs if necessary rather than take apart the lights and wipers from the engine harness. It should all be on the same plugs on the CE2 anyway. Also make sure you retain the speedo wiring - it's in the engine harness, because of the location of the sensor plug. There *probably* will be detail differences, just be careful as you work and also get the motor and loom in and fire it up before finalising. Make sure everything runs right and then pull the motor and loom and complete the loom wrap. You'll need the brake servo out to swap the loom, too. If I did it again I'd also pick up a 4-branch from TSR - it accommodates the ABF's taller block: http://www.tsr-performance.com/webshop/exhaust-manifolds/4-1-exhaust-manifolds-naturally-aspirated/tsr-mk2-golf-2-0-16v-abf-4-branch-stainless-manifold-tsrgolfabfmani-abf-2-0-16v/ When we've dynoed ABFs with 4-branches on they've come out around 170bhp - they breathe well and the tubular manifold will really help the cause. I also have a 6kg flywheel on mine - picks up better.

Is vw rule actually posting in Haikus?

Replace, don't muck about with it!

I've done this swap. Retain the complete ABF engine loom back to the CE2 fusebox. Plug it in to the fusebox, along with the security loop from the ignition barrel and the box that drives that. IIRC the only thing you might need to do is add a power feed for the immobiliser box, I think.

Or head down to your local scrapyard and find a similar vintage VW and pull the engine mounting bolts.

Four lovely new Michelin PS3s fitted today at £68 a corner [ATTACH=CONFIG]77479[/ATTACH] No more worrying about the nasty old rubber on it when I crack the throttle any more! :dance: And yes, that is my ride height and it is standard.

Swapped my clocks for ones with a working speedo (handy) and I have an ABF motor fitted. This is the back of the clocks - I can see no vacuum input: I assume that the MFA MPG is electronic. The car was originally a 2.0 16V. How was the MPG on the MFA controlled on these cars? I've had a search and only found early stuff about vacuum pipes, or have I missed a tit somewhere on the back there?

Stat changed..... for another genuine one out of another ABF I had lying about . The one from SES didn't open halfway. Rubbish. Car still indicates it's running at too low temperature, but pipework suggests it's at the right temp when IR gunned. The Corrado decides when the stereo comes on, which is interesting. New set of Michelin PS3s in 195/50 R15 at the end of the week. I REALLY want to put 16" rims on it but the cost of tyres is significantly higher and I'll lose sidewall profile, so am more likely to wind up with bent rims and pinch punctures. This is a practical daily, so we'll keep the 15" rims, for now. Next up is a bit more paint renovation and then re-bushing of the front control arms with TT bushes. It's too sloppy for my liking at the moment.

Sounds like headgasket - stop using it before the whole coolant system is choked up with water/oil emulsion. I've been concerned about the temperature my C has been running at, so I went and borrowed a mate's IR temp gun. Tip - sense on the heater matrix pipes - gives a true reading of the overall temperature of the motor when it's up to temp. As it turns out the guns are on offer in LIDL at the moment for £18. Buy one! Very useful for all sorts of things: check sparkplug heat for finding misfires, brake discs to identify binding calipers, temp on radiators for any blockages etc etc And obviously you can check the temperature of your nads, too.

Problem with the trigger on the end of the crank like that is it's in all the filth etc. £10 says the Polo one will be 36:1 I think I have one on the shelf - I'll look it out and confirm. It's a straight replacement for the crank seal assembly. Never could understand people running wider rear tyres on a front drive car. :shrug:

I'd still fit ITBs - more power, over a larger rev-range and probably significantly better economy! Even if you don't fit ITBs - get hold of the Polo trigger wheel and fit it with the sensor whilst you're all stripped down - the crank signal will be useful to MegaJolt and help you map the ignition accurately. Do the wheels weigh 6kg or 7kg? The difference between the two is the difference between a light wheel and a really light wheel! Sebrings stagger in at 9.9kg!!

Oh and how much do the tri-spokes weigh in at each?