hodaz

What othe Recaro fronts would go into a Corrado? I was thinking of fitting Ford RS Turbo Recaro's as they are so comfortable and such a good design, then just swapping the sub-frames. Plus can be picked up for pennies comapred to genuine Corrado items, all I''m worried about is the drving position?

There are many more tasteless shed cars like that all over Newcastle. Newcastle is seriously like a mecca for hideous Chav'd out cars.

Last few days (it has been very very cold) my VR has been idling steadily at about 1200rpm on tickover. It does seem to settle a little when the cars warmed up however. Is there something wrong is this normal for a VR when its very cold? I will have to double check the simple things like the throttle cable (I had to replace a water pipe in the dark a couple of days ago and might have knocked it.) Its so high it almost feels like the car is accelerating without me. Thanks

Love the engine bay, exactly how I want mine to look, super clean!

I got VAG-Mobile who are based in my area and advertise in PVW out, and this is now fixed, was a problem with the wiring to the blue temp sender.

Local to me, never seen it before. Seems pretty expensive for what it is. Gorgeous colour and nice and original though.

I hate to admit defeat but I think its just going to have to go to someone who knows what there doing before I waste anymore money on parts. Does anybody know anywhere, close to Newcastle as possible, but dont mind travelling.

Update, changed fan control module also and same thing happens. I tried bridging the connection with a paperclip, and doing this stage 1 comes on but not stage 2. Definately neither of them come on when the engine is running though, nor does the fan stay on after the engine is stopped even after running the temp upto 110. Is replacement fans the likely thing to do, ie motor working properley? Have found them at £100 each from All German Parts. Please any help would be appreaciated.

Have repalced the yellow temp sensor, blue temp sender, and the fan switch, but its still not happening, any ideas what could be wrong? Fan control module? Is there any fuses etc that could be the problem? Basically if I turn the car on and leave it to idle it just gets hotter and hotter until the stage 3 uber noisy fan kicks in (incidentally at 110 like it should).

Pardon my ignorance the bit I need is normal 8mm ID. Oops.

Happy with all the parts I bought of besian and rado_steve

Does anybody know where I can buy these? The flexible rubber ones that go up into the tank. Had a look on the net and cant find anythign small enough in diameter. The ends are a bit split and frayed (mostly caused by me prising them off when replacing fuel pump I have to admit :( )so getting a little bit of a petrol smell in the car.

MAF either dirty or on its way out.

I agree with this. Dont let high mileage put you off either, the VR engines are made to be driven and can take mileage no problem providing its been looked after.

Big turbo 20vt swap would be best option. If its purely about power rather than the love the Rado's good points then you'd probably be better served with a different car.

Yeah mine hovers around the 100, and to be honest I'm chuffed its just finally working properley! its a 15 year old car with 144k on the clock, I can't grumble about it running a few degrees hotter than I would like it to :D

Clogged mesh at the bottom of the pump sounds like a good shout since the tank has been really empty its probably filled with all the nasties at the bottom of the tank, will check that one out. Also out of interest the car has one of those weird "power boost valves" fitted, I'm going to take it off when I get a chance anyway, but could this have caused any issues?

Yeah i did change the filter at the same time. I was thinking that it could be this (my girlfriends keeps running the tank empty and leavin me to fill it up :lol: ) but surely 2 months wouldnt be enough to clog a brand new filter?

When my MAF was broken this was happening, wouldnt hold its revs and would just die. If yours is an early type MAF like mine its really easy to check as you'll notice the cross hair look wire is no longer in position as it should be, if yours is the later type I have no idea how to check it.

After the last time I did some major work on my VR it took a while for the ECU to adjust to running normally again. Could just be that. My car when I bought it had a low temperature thermostat on it and that was making it run rich all the time due to it being stuck in cold mode constantly.

Have done a search but not turned up a simialr problem, I replaced the in tank fuel pump about 2 months ago, and it was fine for a while, but recently it has became really really noisy again, soon as I switch the car on and when its running (almost sounds like its priming all the time?) The car is running great (finally!) with no other problems at all. Does anyone know what it could be? Could it be the relay I have read about, if so which one 67/109?

Has anybody ever tried this, or got any reccommendations as to what would fit best? Cant afford OE Recaro's. I had Escort RST Recaro's in my old Mk2 Golf, and I would do the same again, but would be worried they'd ruin the low slung driving position in a Rado, as the seats are pretty chunky. How about the cloth Recaro's out of a Mk3 Golf VR6? Have seen a few people with Porka Tombstones and TT seats, but neither are really my bag.

Well this problem appears to have fixed itself :lol: Running perfectly noramlly (but for how long this time haha) according to he "VR6 cooling guide" not sure what the high temps immediately after fixing could be down to, possibly the ECU readjusting after it running like a dog for ages due to the cold thermostat, or maybe just the new parts wearing in. Still going to change the cold fan switch for a genuine normal one, as i've read elsewhere the neuspeed cold ones are rubbish.

I fully flushed the whole coolant system when I replaced the thermostat housing ,and refileld with correct G12 mix. I did fill it from the expansion tank though, so I could have an airlock I suppose. I did leave it to run with the cap off when first started to get any air out, but maybe something | need to check. I still think the high temp is coming from stage 1 and 2 not coming on. Not sure if it could be the water pump, no strange noises, and the engine seems to be running beautifully - something as fundemental as this would cause other performance/running issues? I checked through the service history and the water pump is only 5 years old. Where is the oil temp displayed on the MFA?

Water temp. How do I check the oil temp?