g60jaime

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:wave: Wickes driver in Tunbridge Wells North Farm Industrial Estate..... Thanks for the compliments, you said you were on here before we had to move off...

The old stuff is the best, I've been watching a bit of DTM of the same era too Quality one to do at Karaoke though.... malla-malla-boo-ley-ah-li-ah..... MALLA-BOO-I-EH!!! (for a good few minutes)

Looks like you had a great time. I went out to the 24hr there in the Corrado in May and it was miserably cold and damp....looked really slick and greasy. Can't beat a fair weather trip there, it is the best. From going a few times over the last few years I have managed to do it for the following costs: Ferry: Dover - Dunkerque £26 return with Norfolkline (booked months in advance) 1x tank of fuel from Kent to the 'ring £65 Accomodation: Approximately 430 Euros Board/Breakfast/evening meal inc booze at Guesthaus Lindenhof (based on two people sharing a twin room for four nights). 1x tank of fuel burning about £65 'Ring Card: At going rates for however many laps. 1x tank of fuel 'ring to Kent £65 Think that is about it??? Don't need a lot of spending money there, plenty to look at for free on track or cheap: new GP track stuff, Castle 2 Euros etc etc.... Want to go out there to drive it this year but can't see it happening somehow.... :(

I had this when I did mine. The middle of the blade had no contact with the screen mid-screen/wipe. I simply swapped the arms over to check consistency between their sweeps and it cured it. (Drivers to passenger side and vice-versa). P.S. did you buy two drivers side arms, otherwise passenger side Lupo arm will foul your bonnet when you lift it to wash the car etc...?

Cheers, you may remember I bought the boost return delete kit from you, i think? Not fitted it yet as not too sure if I'll like the effects. As for the PWR chargecooler I have all the bits but want to fit this in conjunction with re-doing the the cooling system. All the coolant hoses are a bit crunchy from a previous owner presumably using rad-weld or something. Would like to get Samco coolant pipe kit finished in classic black they do now, I would get the boost pipes in the same finish. Its all time and money at the end of the day!

Overdue update, prompted by the agreed value requirements for my new insurance policy with Footman James. Car at last update had recently had full G60 engine service, Stage 4 supercharger service, 68mm pulley and chip, KW V1 innox inline coilovers fitted by G-werks. I fitted EBC Red brake pads and grooved discs, Lupo Gti Wiper arms and blades and some clear side repeaters. Has since had: Grey leather heated and electric Recaro front seats Mk4 Golf rear brake conversion, inc Goodridge hose and new handbrake cables. Momo Team 280mm steering wheel BBS RS 070 15" wheels. Have got PWR chargecooler setup, Mocal Oil cooler setup and boost return delete kit to come. Any advice on these is appreciated. My basic aim is to get it to look, and run, like a top spec G60 should have when it left the showroom in 1992. A few new photos:

Meguiars do a plastic polish for lights and all things acrylic. I think it is called Pastic-X. I used it when I wet and dried the lacquer on my all red rears and worked fine. Did a nice job on the lower unlacquered bits of the lights too.

I don't think Oscar could give a sh1t!

Colin, I just finished doing this conversion last week on my G60. All went well, pretty much without hitch. I replaced my cables with new items. Part number V1H0 609 721 E, £23.49 for the pair. I still have my old ones that I took off. I'm in Hildenborough if you want to pop over and check anything out. From the pictures it looks as the clip that holds the cable outer to the beam doesn't have enough slack for the caliper end. On my old and new cable there was a blue ring around the outer that married up with the clip so just used that as the guide for the correct amount of sag/tension. Is it both the same sides? Jaime

Just thought I would update.... Have just wound the pistons back into the calipers and re-bled with the handbrake cables unconnected and with the handbrake mech uncranked, one side at a time. Got some more air out on both sides. Definitley the way to go bleed then crank the pistons onto the disks. Now have better/shorter pedal travel and more solid pedal feel. Thanks for everyones input...

Just been reading some historic threads on here about long brake pedals. A general theme seems to be to bleed the mk4's with the handbrake cables disconnected, pump a lot, then connect the handbrake cables and bleed again. I connected the handbrake cables before bleeding. I also cranked the handbrake mechanism on each caliper by hand to push the piston out before bleeding. Will take the calipers off, wind the pistons back in, then bleed, pump, then connect the handbrake and bleed to check for air again. Hope it works.

Well, you could just see the bubbles that had just been expelled from the caliper rising back up the tube toward the caliper on releasing the foot pedal. However, when you say keep the fluid up in the bottle do you mean the end of the Eezi-bleed needs to be under oil in the bottle; if so, I don't think it was so might explain my problem with the Eezi-bleed. Haven't used it for a few years and may not have been using it right this time round.

I'm doing it the traditional two man method. One man doing the foot pedal the other on the bleed nipples - pedal up, open nipple, pedal down, close nipple pedal up and so on. Eezi-bleed was more hassle than it was worth, just sucked air back up in... My main concern isn't with the stopping of the car, its good, better than before I would say. Its just the pedal feel, where it bites is lower down the pedal travel and you have to be aware of it. Its not to spongey to be honest. My only reason for bringing this thread back to life is that the standard Corrado calipers and standard mk4 calipers are 38mm. Mine are off an Octavia or mk4 Golf Estate (only found out after buying, see earlier threads). My calipers have 41mm piston bore - therefore I'm thnking it is taking more oil to move the piston, hence the longer foot travel. Your experiences with leaving it a few days of normal use and re-bleeding is interesting though, I will probably do the same and wait and see.....

Long delay on following up from this.... Anyhow, I got the correct seal kit for my calipers, which were indeed 41mm. Calipers have been rebuilt, painted and fitted today. All works as it should with one exception. Both calipers have been fully re-bled with no air coming out. However there is a longer pedal travel and maybe slightly softer pedal feel than before. Would I be correct in thinking that this is due to the piston bore being 3mm bigger than Standard mk 4 golf and Corrado calipers being 38mm? There is no doubting the brake action; the car pulls up just fine when you stop (only done a stop from 25mph) and when pootling about. The handbrake holds well on flat and is a lot more difficult to drive off with it on (unlike with the old calipers, yet to try it on a slope or hill). I would say objective is achieved but no with a new problem... What can anyone suggest? Larger master cylinder?.....

VW dealer, or cheaper alternative Bigg Red. http://www.biggred.co.uk/ Bigg Red are a caliper refurbing company specialising in this sort of thing. Was about £30 inc p+p for a set of seals for my mk4 rear brakes.

Hi I believe you can use the Furniture Clinic paint used for dying/re-dying leather. I've never done any plastics (only leather Recaros) but if you follow the instructions just the same can't see why you wouldn't get great results. Best bet is to go www.furnitureclinic.co.uk and check it out. If you can send them a sample of the grey you want to paint your bits in they will match it. From memory I think they match the VW Platinum (grey) leather as Grey 20 with the sample is sent them, but, I think the grey plastics are a darker shade though...

Personally I've never understood the idea of seat covers. I can see the validity if you constantly driving to bog-snorkelling comps and might get the seats a little dirty and use them as a barrier; but for permanent use!?! They look all saggy, don't fit great/match factory interiors that well. Besides that why would you want to cover up Recaros? They are lovely looking seats and comfortable too, I can't see how £60.00 covers will benefit them. Just maintain and clean them. The last thing I would want is to use them covered for ages then take the covers off and find the movement of the covers has increased cloth/leather wear. At least you can see what is going on...I wouldn't dream of covering my leather Recaros. Just clean and maintain and reconnolise when seriously worn. Just my 2p, sorry.

I would start by cleaning the carpet you would with any other interior upholstery and take it from there. If you have eliminated the conditions in which the mould grew, then I wouldn't have thought it would come back. If it does come back you might have to tackle in an anti-bacterial method. I'm sure there are some car specific anti-bacterial cleaners out there for the job. When interior house decorating to tackle persistant mould and mildew, Polycell do an antibacterial treatment for this purpose. I don't know what it is like for soft furnishings as it is not intended for it, (you aren't supposed to paint those bits), so read the label and test an area first. You don't want to find it has bleach or corrosive properties. Hope this helps a little...

Installed my new set of electric Recaros at the weekend. Despite testing them on purchasing and all being good, when installing and testing for the first time in my car everything was as it should be until operating the drivers seat to move the angle of the back rest. It would only go forward not back. After a quick panic thinking it could be a motor or something, and then calming myself, I swapped the switch over to the passenger side. Had the same problem, so it was just a switch problem. The plan was to ring VW on Monday morning to see how much a new one would be. But before Monday arrived I took the switch to pieces that evening: Inserted a flat head screwdriver into four retaining clips that hold the outer casing/housing and worked it off wiggling and working it to reveal the guts. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfP1040894compressed.jpg[/attachment:2qb0yvth] Before I had opportunity to take the switch rocker off two little brown bits fell out as I took the internals out of the casing. This transpired to be a little slider that depresses a sprung contact onto the activating contact when you rock the switch. It essentially looked like a bit of blank circuitboard, but now in two parts. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1040895compressed.jpg[/attachment:2qb0yvth] I had a little think as to what I could use to improvise as a material to replace the broken bit and decided an old bank card would be a suitable substitute. I cut it down with scissors to the same shape and size and after a few tweeks it appeared to work good as new. P1040893compressed.jpg[/attachment:2qb0yvth] First thing Monday morning i went down to test it on the car (bare) and it all worked as it should. As it worked I then replaced the outer casing and installed the switch back into the seats. A cheap fix for a broken switch. May help someone in the future.

Is it me or do those dents on the off-side rear arch look like blurry police photofits of a mostached man and a woman?

On my last trip to the Nurburgring I managed to fit 3 bikes in and all luggage (for me and girlfriend) included some toolboxes inside the car. I have to admit i did take the rear seat out completely, (squabs, backs and arm rest) and left them at home. Lots of dustsheets to protect the leather and to lesser extent bikes. Taking the rear seats out is 4 nuts and lifting a lever at the pivot to the outside of the car, squabs just pull out and the arm rest is 4 screws. Was all out in 10 mins max.

Purely out of interest, can I ask what the train of thought is here? How many G60's were sold then? I see more G60's around where I live than anything else. Might be coincidence though; any significance to the presumed low G60 count?

A towbared Midnight Blue (?) VR6 parked in Tonbridge branch of Howdens today at about 11am. Private plate *** VRG.

At the end of the day any IAM member, or anyone with an interest in joining, enjoys driving and is demonstrating a desire to improve their driving. IAM members who wish to be instructors, and give up one Sunday a month, want to help others improve their skill for their benefit and that others. I can't speak for the BAM IAM but the focus certainly wouldn't be on riding/driving "quickly" certainly not "deathwish style". The focus is on "making progress" legally and driving to the suitability of the road and conditions whilst not holding up other road users. It is probably more accurate to to call IAM members driving technique enthusiasts rather than driving purely driving enthusiasts. It is unlikely you'll see many IAM hooning it round the Nurburgring "feeding the wheel" in their Toyota Avensis'. With this you can expect a few Boring-Bobs. Whilst there is the whole feeding the wheel thing I think that is the focus of most peoples opinions because that is the what the IAM is all about. Using the best method at all times, you can not loose control with two hands on the wheel and feeding it. The best advice is pay the fee, do the course, get the qualification if you don't like it you don't need to renew your membership and your qualification will expire 2 years after your last renewal. But you will find that you will get something out of it, I certainly did. The training consisted of 3-4 Sunday mornings in consecutive months from 9- 12.30. The first half was in a Village Hall listening to speakers on subjects of IAM interest etc then the trainee/IAM guest takes out an IAM Instructor/obsever for practical training observations on all road types in the car they came in. I always had a different instructor every week, they do a report sheet - positives and negatives as you would expect and book you in for an examination with a current or retired A-grade Police driver when ready. The examiner does exactly the same as the Instructor/Observer does on any normal observation drive. If you cut the mustard you get the qualification. Mind you the Traffic Policeman examiner I had span the steering wheel in his right palm on entering the Tesco car park to meet me, needless to say I didn't pull him up on his lack of feeding, despite me having to do it! :nono: :brickwall: