g60jaime

Right, I found that the heated seat cables (1xblack cable with Green terminal connection and 1xgrey/blue cable with grey terminal connection) were interfering with the spoiler. I unplugged them and now the spoiler works. I now don't have my heated seat plugged in and therefore not working. Does anyone know a suitable connection for these to plug into without causing interference with other circuits? thanks

hopefully going to get some time this afternoon to look. I just can't beleive the number of cables and what is unpluged to what is pluged in. IT can't be hard, just got to find it. Thanks to everyone will update with findings.

PLEASE SOMEONE! This is a nightmare! I've been out under torchlight investigating just found a whole bundle more unconnected cables. The auto electrician didn't want to know and refered me to a local VW specialist who I've used before and wasn't very impressed for the expensive work they undertook so not confident. The well known specialist who fitted the steering rack have said to check the stereo even though they shouldn't have been anywhere near it when it was last with them, I'm beyond fustrated. I've done loads of research on the forum, its not fuse 16, its not the Stereo as it it worked fine before the heated seat loom went in and steering rack was changed. Still works on the manual button etc........ I've found two unconnected blue and white cables, neither of which seem to have the right connector to plug in anywhere. PLEASE!

Irwin do a set of attachments that fit in a drill, (ideally impact driver). You set the drill to reverse to unwind the bolt, position the irwin head into the rounded allen head and it should bite whats left of the head, grip and then unwind the bolt (and rendering it useless afterwards). Again I have seen these for sale in Homebase about £15-20 a set. Haven't had the need to use them though.

When i did my rear brakes i found that a 7mm allen key head fitted, stuck that in square made sure of a good fit and then got an extra pair of hands to hold it square. Then had to fashion an extension bar out of some scrap tube i had knocking about for added torque to break the tension; you'll need it! Then came straight out. This was on a 92 G60. Wierdly most allen sets don't come with 7mm allen keys but Homebase sell a set that does have on in it, also Halfords sell one but i think it is called a calliper key or something, my dad bought one to do his BMW brakes!?!

Yeah exactly the same except the Ronals have the deeper dish by about 0.5". I like the Diamond cut finish and the way the light catches them.

Hey mate, my wheels aren't actually Ronals, i think they are made by them but they are actually badged and stamped ACT. I think mine have a shallower dish about 1" instead of 1.5ish. Funnily enough i want to get a set of 8" D90's all round! Sorry don't have MSN, used to on my old computor but didn't tend to use it so haven't installed it on my new one.

Had hoped a non working active rear spoiler would have got a response or two, as it is a seemingly fairly common problem (couldn't find my fault on here though), was hoping for a tip or two. Will be seeking advice from a local auto electirican in the next few days to see if they can help on this and on fitting a new immobiliser unit because the current one gets dangerously hot!

This is my G60 with between 35mm and 40mm drop with 15"s, (don't know exact drop as it is on KW V1 coilovers). Will hopefully give a guide though.406edit.jpg[/attachment:upcz5bfp]

Thanks for the added details, I might well go down that route once the front is sorted. As for undertaking it, I hope you didn't think i was questioning the validity in manufacturing your own parts for use on the vehicle, I've a lot of respect for the time and effort some members have evidently put into their cars. Not something I have had to do at this point. As I slowly upgrade and replace parts with parts that aren't necessarily OE I feel there might well be the need to to a bit of this, its probably just a confidence thing, something i think in your case being an automotive design engineer might well help with, haha! Its the sort of thing when you see some stuff done and you think crikey, don't know how I would go about that. Anyway, thanks again for your help, its appreciated.

I think it is great how easily opinions and solutions are shared on this forum. KipVR, in response, I think i will be opting for the 15mm hubcentric spacers like I initially wanted to, will go back to the supplier and re-explain prob in case something was initially missed, and therefore mis-advised. As for the rear spacers looks a great idea, do you manufacture those yourself? They have a nice finish and would cut a lot of mucking about right down. With all the "home-made" parts (doesn't sound very complimentary) how do you know that isn't all going to end in tears when making the part then fitting it and leaving it? Faith in the material and it fixings, or is there often more to the persons background in terms of engineering etc? Have you got any more of these spacers you may want to sell? Thanks once again. pt_corrado, it looks like you take off the brake caliper, carrier and shield, then the stub axle that the wheel fits on. Then you'll have the rear beam just looking at you, then fit the spacer to the beam once you have made the appropriate size and shape. Build back on everything you took off in the reverse order! Repeat for the other rear corner.

The car was on a bit of a slope when the photo was taken. When the suspension was changed I'm pretty sure all the geometry was adjusted on the front end due to the drop, i think has been set to have a bit of neg camber on it. I want to get some 4-wheel laser alignment done but only once i have the chassis sorted and am happy with it, therefore want to get the spacers bit done first. Not noticed any rubbing on the inner top of the arch, I did spot a bit of rubbing on the driveshaft where it must have rubbed on the arch tunnel under compression at somepoint, car may be a little low but its not exactly slammed! Another thought I did have was whether it was necessary to make sure the offset was the same for all four wheels or just treat the wheels in pairs. Therefore just because I've got spacers for the front doesn't mean I have to for the back.

4-6 weeks ago I had a fully functioning active rear spoiler. It then had a new steering rack fitted and a heated seat loom connected up to the fuseboard. On the 60 mile journey home from the garage that did the work i noticed the spoiler wasn't going up and down at the appropriate speeds, but was working using the over-ride switch on the dash. I contacted the garage in the following days who said a connection must have come out somewhere behind the dash but didn't elaborate any further on how to go about fixing this. Therefore I did some research on the forum into the issue and found out the usual, head unit and blue and white cable being disconnected etc. I investigated into the connections at the fuseboard and found a few connectors unconnected. I can not tell what they are or if they should be connected or not. Disconnected as follows: Cable connected to the fuseboard leading away to the car: Blue coloured female connector with a single blue/white cable Coming to the fuseboard from the car: Brown coloured female connector with grey/white and yellow cable Olive Green coloured male connector with black cable Green coloured male connector with black/white cable White coloured female spade connector with blue and white cable Yellow coloured female connector with green cable (connector has capacity for an extre cable) I don't know where to start, all obvious connections to and from the spoiler control unit are fine. I hate electrics and don't know how to fix this once working part of the car, fuseboards are too confusing with all the cables, different colours connections etc. I've tried looking through the Bentley manual but can't find much useful on the spoiler. Any help is appreciated.

After considering everything that people have contributed on this thread, and no further responses that included the photos, I bought some 9.5mm Ripspeed spacers for £15 to guage size requirements at the least. All I can say about them is that that is about all they are good for. Really difficult to centre the wheel, almost impossible and only had 8mm of bolt thread left when tightening the bolts. Can't imagine ever using them. However they do look to improve the clearance but couldn't really tell properly. Can anyone confirm 15mm (or more) Hubcentric spacers with new bolts will be the way to go? At over £100 for a pair with bolts don't want to buy the wrong thing, i want to buy the right set up, just once. Please use the previously attached photos for assessment. Thanks in advance.

Pictures added to help assessment.

When i went to order 15mm hubcentric spacers i was informed that i will get rubbing on the outer arch if used. From what Henry said i wasn't expecting this. Instead it was recommended i got a set of Ripspeed 9.5mm spacers from Halfords and fitted them using the original bolts, not longer ones!? I know these Ripspeed items are not hubcentric and are a universal fitting, am a bit concerned over the wheel not being supported on the spiggot ring and increasing shear stress on bolts. So I'm now back to selecting a spacer thickness to fit, whether they can be hubcentric or not (preferable), and the need for new bolts. I've added some photos to demonstrate what I've got. I just don't want to buy the wrong thing. Thanks

Thanks Henry, thats great to compare specs. My G60 is a 92 and it is the late spec one (bumpers and bonnet definitely, wings i believe are late don't know how to check?). Pretty sure it is a cross over one as it has early spec interior. Armed with that info I am going to order up some 15mm hubcentric spacers either H&R or Eibach's. Thanks everyone

Thanks for the advise guys. The wheels do have spiggot rings, little green plastic rings that sit between stub axle and the back of the wheel. Having some machined up for £20 to any spec is very competitive, I doubt i could get my local fabricators to do it for the same. What do you reckon the widest is you could go with the spacers without starting to foul the arches with the wheel spec already stated. At the mo i am opting for the 15mm due to the hub-centric bit.

Does anyone have a suggestion in which way to go here? I know its only a choice of two but was wondering if it is best to keep any spacer depth to a minimum or whether i could fill out my arches with the thicker 15mm ones without detrimental effects. Any opinion is appreciated.

Thanks for the complimentry comments, although i can't take credit for the photography, that was my girlfriend's effort.

Just wondering if anyone might be able to recommend a suitable sized wheel spacers for my G60. The car has just been lowered with KW V1's by 35-40mm and has some ACT 15x7.5" offset et37 alloys with 15 195 50 tyres. The front tyres rub the front of the inner arch when on full lock. The work was done by G-werks a month or so ago and they have suggested either 8mm or 15mm either side, H&R or Eibach. I have no problems with the rears. Just wondering if anyone else is running a similar set up and what size can be used to fill the arch out without getting rubbing on the outer arch or causing increased strain on any components (if any? Thanks in advance.

Been a member on here for a few months and owned this Corrado for a little over 5 years....about time i put some photos up. First few driveway shots are probably a year after i got it just after i washed, polished and waxed it. The others were taken a few weeks ago during a trip to the Nurburgring up a forest track that accesses the Karussell; it is unfortunately not as clean and shiney, it is covered in authentic Nurburgring dirt and bugs (wouldn't be suprised to see pots of this dirt for sale in the merchandise shops to go with the all the stickers etc, haha!). As you may see the car has subtly developed in my ownership, parts replaced when needed or when I saw fit. Any comments are welcomed...

Job all done now, new discs all round new pads all round, new rear ABS rotors, new rear wheel bearings and a very useful caliper wind back tool. Just got to wait for the pads and discs to bed in now. thanks for the help!

Took your advice, got the new abs rings and am ordering new wheel bearings. will be fitting once they have arrived during the weekday evenings. All i have to worry about now is pressing in the races.....freezing the races in the freezer and heating the disk and gently closing up in a vice i am hoping should do the trick. thanks again.

thanks to you both for your advice. Will order some new abs rotors then, seems silly if they are cheap and old ones may only cause problems. Will i need to do this with the bearings then do you think or could i still try and get them out? i think they were only fitted last year? cheers