h100vw

Joe, let me know what bulbs you plan on using. There are some rules of physics to bear in mind, that may affect your choice of wattage.....V=IR and P=VI Gavin

Doing the stem seals will only give a short respite from smoking. At or around that mileage the valveguides will be in need of replacement. You might get away with doing the exhaust ones on their own but a complete job would be better. Of course you are into £40-50 for a gasket kit, plus oil and filter, antifreeze and then some other stuff like, water outlet pipes, which would be high on my list of consumables. When you add the cost of having someone do the guides at £5 each, you are a long way up the modified head road moneywise. You could easily find a secondhand head and get it modded up/fettled and then do a swap in a day. I don't need a website but I might be able to help you out with a spare head, if you want to go down that road. Getting it to Stoke probably wouldn't be tough. Gavin

http://www.thinkauto.com is the website for mocal. Same kit as for an 8valve Golf but ask for a bit of extra hose to go round the charger or where ever. Gavin

I can still get my oil into the 120s on a trackday. As soon as you back off the temp comes down a couple of degrees every few hundreds yards. Only takes a mile or so of cruising to get down below 100. Well spent £100. Previously I had 145 around Castle Combe, scary!! Gavin

Yeah, commonly done that, on the rear discs. The rotor gets left on the old disc. You can lever them off with a screwdriver. Was it a VW specialist? Best get back there quick before the discs go in the bin. Gavin

Joe, have a suck on the pipe that you took off the pump. If you can keep sucking and don't go blue then there is a leak somewhere. If you clamp off the pipes as they go into each door and suck again. When you start going lue you have found the culprit pipe. You can probably use a pump out of a Passat of the same vintage as your C, if it turns out to be the pump. Gavin

The 2 litre 16 valve is a different thing to the 1.8. They can be chipped, I had a 2 litre 16 valve Passat which has the same 9A engine in it. There is a place in Blackpool that can do chips for it. I agree that an off the shelf one may not get the best out of it, at least in top end numbers but the improvements in driveability would be worth it. I had 2 exhaust cams in my 1.8 16V and the increase in torque was very noticeable on the motorway. At 70 there was no need to drop into 4th, as you were already in the power. I sold the car to a mate, when he took the cam out to put in his MK1 16V, he commented on how much it had affected the Corrado. My Corrado also had VSAM on it, that made a very noticeable difference to driveability and also top end power. I had the software and spent some time messing with it. I wouldnt spend the extra to have the fuelling, that didn't appear to make any difference if it was connected or not. Vince reslots the cam pulley so that the original marks line up, making it easier for the likes of you and me to fit the cam and get it timed right. The Americans don't bother, they just break out the whiteout(tippex). There is a lengthy write up on some American guys Scirocco website on how to do it DIY. The use of this cam was started in a race series in the States( similar to slick 50). The racers were not allowed to use none std parts in the engines however, someone discovered the exhaust cam gave an improvement when used as an inlet. As it has VW stamped in it, no problems..... I doubt that hundreds of racers all over the states would go to the trouble, if there was nothing in it. At the end of the day Brookes will have to make his own mind up where to blow his money. A 50 shot of nitrous is always going to be good value at £500. :shock: Cheers Gavin

The 2 litre 16V is chippable. It has KE motronic injection. The ecu controls the mixture with the Lambda probe as a reference. You would never be able to get KJET on its own, to be accurate enough not to kill the cat. You can use an exhaust cam as an inlet cam. This would give you more than using a KR inlet cam. Stealth can do you one. Gavin

Stephan, if it does turn out to be the ABS pump running continuously and not something else under the bonnet. You need to check out the pressure switch that controls the pump. It turns the pump on and off using the pump relay. It sounds like it is stuck in the 'under pressure ' position. A bit of a tap might be in order. The switch on a mates Rallye failed so teh pump never ran. The VAG price for a new one was 180 + VAT. I hope thats not it. Gavin

Thanks Barry. Let me know if you need that alarm. Gavin :)

How much shorter than standard was the belt you used? I had a tensioner cap when I fitted the 68mm pulley. I am convinced the tension was too high and that wore out the pulley side bearing. The same as doing up the alternator belt too tight would wear the bearings in the alternator. A quick home rebuild, a std tensioner and alls well now. No slippage either. I reckon the pulley bearing has probably gone. Jabba may sort you out with that. The bearing on its own isn't too costly, it may have been a bad one? Gavin

Cheetham, The UK/Europe VR is a 2.9, this is a 2.8 overbored. There is only one oversize piston available from VAG for the VR and the 2.9 is already using it. 600 seems like a lot but it may be right. You might be better looking for a lower mileage 2.9. The VRs do beat their pistons/bores if the engine has been abused, missed oil changes. If it the bores that are worn, then you could overbore a 2.8 block and maybe reuse the pistons you have got. The secondhand motor is probably the best way to go. Gavin

Bones, those numbers prolly refer to something like 'VR6 without aircon'. The VA means Vorne(front) and HA means Hinte(Rear). Apologies about my spelling to any Germans reading! I doubt you could safely associate the numbers with a specific drop. Best bet is to buy some springs(and shocks). Or Coilovers if you are minted and after exactly the right height. Gavin

Classic, even after balancing the wheels you can get a shimmy from them. If there is a flat spot from a skid, you can balance the wheel and tyre but the flat spot remains and you will always feel it. It might be worth swapping the wfront wheels onto the back one at a time to see if that moves or removes the problem. Also mate do you have a habit of sitting with your foot on the brakes at lights and stuff? You need to read GazzaG60s comment above. Keeping your foot on the brakes can and will warp your disks. Especially after getting loads of heat in them. Gavin

Dalek, before you spend hundreds on suspension bushes. Check all your tyres are blown up to the right pressure. Also confirm both rear brakes are working. The state of the disc should tell you. I had severe pull to the right on my G60 Golf. It turned out to be the left rear disc covered in rust, not doing it's job. Mainly down to where the car gets parked and the prevailing weather. The rain always got on that wheel. Not so much a problem for the fronts as they work harder. Plus I use it more often now. Gavin

Bones, it could be oil from the cam seal or a leaking cam cover gasket. You don't want to be pulling the head if it's summat simple. G60 has a special metal headgasket that costs a few quid and if you have the head off you'll need to have it flowed and get a lumpy cam etc etc :lol: Gavin

So Nick, what's the loom like, are you pleased with the difference it has made? Gavin

When you say overheats, does it boil over or does the gauge read way up to the right? VW hand books tell you that anywhere on the gauge is acceptable as long as the warning light is out. If it is boiling over, then the radiator fan is the most likely culprit. Lift the bonnet with the engine running and monitor the fan and temp gauge. The fan would normally cut in before the needle gets to the top 1/4 of the gauge. If the fan isn't working, check it's not jammed. Then the fuses. Pull the plug of the fan switch(near the battery at the bottom of the rad) and jump the wires and see if the fan runs. Can't remember the colours. Prolly a big red will be the feed and a red/white and red/black the outputs. It should be a dual speed fan, high and low speeds. Gavin

On a MK1 Golf/Jetta/Scirroco etc Thats where the side engine mount bolts on. I would think it has something to do with access during manufacture. Maybe for cleaning out the block.

I am not sure it does. I did my head gasket in January and don't recall any. Seems a bit gash but the head bolts don't line up if you get it too far off. I saw your post on Vortex, why are you after fitting a 1H head on your motor? Gavin

http://www.summitracing.com fuel delivery, fuel injectors, ford motorsport, #30s 220 dollaz for 8. delivery is pretty quick but you gotta pay for it and also the import duty.