h100vw

I am pretty sure it's a litre from min to max on the dipstick. Gavin

Ign on engine off. Press and hold the end of the mfa stalk while turning off ign and turning it back on. Go for a drive and keep pressing the mfa button, in both 1 and 2. Eventually, you should find one that is counting up rapidly. If you don't the speed sensor must be totalled. Have a look on the American Corrado club there is a better write up on there about it. Gavin

Get yourself sorted with 8mm allen key for those carrier bolts. Socket kind is best cos you can knock it in with a hammer before undoing the bolts. Need 13mm and 15mm spanners. Worth also buying a tool to wind back the pistons. Saves on swearing and knuckles. Gavin

Do a search on Thatcham approved security in the UK using google. Basically a Category 2 immobiliser has to 'cut' two circuits to prevent the car being driven away. Nearly always the starter motor and fuel pump feeds. The starter can be got around by push starting but th efuel pump is a lot more trouble. There are rules drawn up for the required standad of fitment of alarms and immobilisers. All joints need to be soldered. The Cuts for the need to have at least 30cm of the original wire removed. You should have to remove 2 pieces of trim to get to the control unit. http://www.metasystem.co.uk/ http://www.gt-autoalarm.co.uk/ http://www.cobra.it/ Here's a few links to some alarm manufacturers Cheers Gavin

Phil, Let me know if you have any more bother. Cheers Gavin

Phil, what size bulbs are you using?? Let me do the maths if you want bigger than std stuff. Cheers Gavin

G60jet, You can get all the gear you need from Vehicle wiring products. Postage may cost you a few quid tho. The looms I make are totally reversable. No cutting involved at all. Have you got the plugs from the back of the headlight as well? Or are you going to use some blades? I have steel toecaps, so my toes will be fine! :D Cheers Gavin

Phil, I will send you a PM with my number, if you can't sort it, ring me up.. Cheers Gavin

Scott, stick it in 5th and stand on the brakes while man 'B' backs the bolt off. Not as easy as it sounds in the manual!!! Gavin

89 Rallye on g60power is selling an engine without charger and ancilliaries. Might be worth a look if yours is totalled. Gavin

The dumping pressure myth is still doing the rounds? Sam at SNS has been everywhere in the code and not found anything to do with it. How much boost is unsafe?? ( Check out http://www.vwvortex.com and do a search on it for ISV see what comes up) I have a check valve on my Golf and noticed no change in 'go'. ISV not leaking anyway? I have a 68mm pulley as well and have seen 1.2 BAR of boost on the gauge. Folk in the States run turbo G60s to 20+ PSI. To get that kind of boost from G60 would take a tiny pulley and some high revving. Along with frequent rebuilds... The idea of the check valve, is to maintain std levels of boost, by preventing blowby if the ISV is worn. If you think a check valve could be bad, you could always fit a new ISV. :shock: I have run my G60 for over 2 years without incident. Well nowt that can be put down to the check valve. I reckon it's safe as houses. I bet there are tons of folk on here that have them and no one has a bad experience. My 2p. Gavin

Correct me if I am wrong but there is a speed input to the spoiler controller. The controller is just above the switch I think. Would need to check the wiring diagrams to work out the wire in q. Make sure nothing got disconnected under the dash. I know thats a bit of sweeping statement. Does the speedo still work? and the miles count up. Digital mileage or rotating counters? Gavin

Prolly do the same job but the pipes are much larger in diameter on the by pass. Have a look at http://www.snstuning.com I think they have a write up on a DIY check valve on there. Gavin

Looks more like an alien to me.. Another job for Mulder and Scully???? Gavin

Spy ball alarms have I believe a 'spyball' in them. This is a movement sensor. There is a little box, with a curved bottom, with a ball bearing in it and there are ultrasonic sensors pointing at the ball. When you alarm the car the ball comes to rest in thw bowl. Any movement over the limit set by the adjustment pot will cause an alarm condition. I suspect that the number of beeps/tones has something to do with the sensor that caused the alarm condition. You mention wind and cold. The wind may have set off the movement and the cold/wind can cause ultrasonics in the cabin to trigger, especially with air vents open. Try online, to find the user instructions for your alarm and see what they say. Cheers Gavin

It would be nice if he could get a 16V but as he is in Seattle, I think he'll be 'stuck' with a G60 or VR. You have to figure that either is going to be approaching 10years old, if not older. You need to buy wisely or suffer the cost of catching up on 10 years worth of neglect. With a G60 you need to see evidence of a charger rebuild or you want that off the price to start with. Kompressor Kanda can sort you out 'locally' with that. I'd check for advice on http://www.vwvortex.com . I reckon you would find someone local to you, who would lead you down the right road. Cant comment on VRs tho having never owned one Gavin

Robbo, it depends on the facilities you have. Doing bushes can a right B*****d of a job. Even with a ramp etc. I'd leave the bushes alone unless they are gone. New front wishbone with bushes fitted is a sensible way of doing the front. The rear axle ones can be a bitch to get out. Gas bottles make short work of them and then you can hacksaw the sleeve out. Definately go for powerflex for replacements. They knock in dead easy with a bit of copperslip. New standard shocks will be a revelation after originals with more than 60-70K on them. Just depends if you want to lower it. If you do buy quality gear. See the thread about weitec??? Gavin

Stan, you might get away with rear handles from an 88-94 Passat. I have used rear handles all round on a Passat estate I had a while back. You cannot find a secondhand drivers door handle anywhere. I think I had to swap the triggers over or summat. Easy done with teh facilities you have access to! :lol: Gavin

If your motor ends up shot. You can overbore a 2.8 and re-use your pistons if they are not knacked. Not as cheap as a secondhand 2.9 but at least you would know all its history. Gavin

I fitted some on my 16V in 1999. I took them off and they have now done about 40k in total on my G60 Golf. They haven't rusted but the plating is no longer shiny. Rated highly. The TX top adjustable ones,, although I just have them set on hard. If you back them off it gets a bit bouncy as the springs are pretty stiff. The 40mm kit is seriously low at the front.......... You can drop the back to suit with the rear shocks having circlips. Caused probs on my C as the jetex then battered the axle. TUV approved, German quality. Nuff said Gavin

What make is your alarm. Each make will have a different method for obtaining replacement transmitters. META, you need to have the code key. Onit is a monster number which META program into the replacement before shipping to you. If that fails, they can reprogram the control unit and make the transmitters to suit the new id. GT you need to have the override key, that will then allow you to program any GT transmitter to your alarm. Some others allow you to override them by turning the ignition on and off and watching the status LED flash x times and then on/off again entering a 5,6 digit code. If you let me know what you have I'll see if I can help you more. The place that fitted it would be the best able to get you going again. Gavin

Do a search on loom and read for yourself. The headlights are a well documented weakness of Corrados. Gavin

Stan, the alarm wailing thing is prolly the bonnet switch, corrosion and stuff. Most alarms I have come across, start monitoring the bonnet/boot switch as soon as you arm them. The doors are usually next and then the ultrasonics last, after the interior conditions have stabilised. Does it have a status LED, if so is it flashing when you cancel the alarm. The number of flashes tells what the cause of the trigger is. If you dont have instructions try doing a search or find a Laserline dealer, Halfords? The central locking on C's can be operated from both doors. There is a switch built into each handle, the switch feeds the central locking control unit, inside the drivers side rear quarter panel I think. The CU runs the vaccuum pump(boot) in the appropriate direction to either lock or unlock the doors. The locking, when controlled by the alarm just feeds a signal to the CU, which triggers the pump. It sounds like you have got a couple of different problems to me. I would go for sorting the central locking out first. Or fit rear door handles and make sure the boot lock works OK, so you can still get in the car. There was a rear handle thread in the last couple of days I think. For the alarm, if you were much nearer I could have done you a mega deal on a CAT 1. From a fitters point of view, finding someone to look at it and fix it would be hit and miss. They might want £50 to look at it? That would probably be money better spent on a new alarm. Especially if yours is getting towards 5 years old. PM if I can maybe help you more. Gavin

PM inbound

The loom is built with upgrades in mind. However, there are limits. Most folk forget that when fitted to Corrados the main beam relay is powering 4 lights. So if you put bigger bulbs in the spots and headlights it would be possible to exceed the limit of the fuse. Puts on pyshics teacher hat... P=VI Power = Volts X current(amps) A 60 Watt bulb at 12 Volts will draw 5 Amps (I) For example 80/100W bulbs in the headlights and 100W spots would total 400Watts on main beam. 400Watts at 12 Volts is 33Amps. This should blow the fuse that I fit as standard(20A), in theory anyway. If it were not to blow, then it would be running pretty close to going at any time. 80/100s in the headlights and 55s in the spots would be just about right. Any more lessons needed let me know. Gavin