h100vw

I wouldn't without evidence the charger is OK or at least rebuildable. 140K is a long long way without some attention. Have a look round the charger and see if you can see Jabbasport etched in it anywhere. If you see some numbers written on it thats not evidence of a rebuild!!! You need to think, if you pay 2450 you'll be into 500+ for the rebuild at Jabba, assuming it can be done. You then have a 3K car. You can get cheaper G60s than that, that have some history. At that mileage what else is worn out, Suspension, brakes, tyres, exhaust. None of which come cheap. It could soon owe you 4K. Which you will never get back. It would be worth asking if you could have Jabbasport remove and inspect the charger. If its duff, refit it and walk away. If it can be done then you want £500 off the price. It would be worth £150 in the long run. If your dealer won't entertain it. Look for another. My Golf only had 80K miles on it when I bought it. The charger was close to being $hagged. I know that I have to keep my eye on it. A DIY rebuild every 2 years or so will prevent me having to hunt around for a new charger. If you buy the wrong one, a G60 can knock lumps off your wallet big time. Ask Henny about Starship mileage G60s. The chassis and engine can take it but an unloved charger is the starw that breaks etc..... Without any history it would be worth 1500 tops, to me. I can do my own charger if needed. If it is beyond repair, I could get another and save the day. Or you could fit a turbo kit?? On the otherhand if your dealer is offering a warranty then it might be worth a go. Gavin

Bad column switch, double headlight bulb and double spotlight bulb failure. Double fullbeam fuse failure. Not in any order. Wet floors could be leaky matrix, bad door seals. Bad door foils, the ones behind the door cards. When you next have some rain have a really close look at the door rubbers and the bottoms of the doors. Make sure the drain holes in the doors are clear. The 4 drains for the sunroof could be blocked to? Not sure if there are fuses or breakers for the windows. Do you have a Bentley manual, thats the beast to have.. Gavin

There is a strainer in the reservoir. It takes a few seconds to flow through it. That would be my explanation. Top it up again and see what happens. Bear in mind that you may have to remove some fluid if you change the discs and/or pads. Gavin

When my MK2 did the matrix, VW replaced it but didn't fit the valves. The fella said it was a modified matrix and wouldn't leak. Gavin

defo the valves, exact same symptoms on a 1990 Passat. New valves in a kit from VW were about 25+VAT. Gavin

Get a name. I don't believe you could get any Koni coil overs for that money. 4 top adjustable shocks would cost you more then that, without any springs! Awesome sell Konis and I am sure none cost less than £700. Gavin

Hey Stretch does this company have a website?? If so can we have a look? Cheers Gavin

H100VW, The pinking and other symptoms only happen with the 8V GTI engine... With the G60 there is no warning symptoms that I've heard about, the engine just stops running like you'd stalled it... :shock: :? If the bolt were to shear off and the cambelt pulley spin I guess it would stop dead. However you may get lucky and find the bolt is backing out slowly and the woodruff key is just about holding things together, like my mates 16V. The pinking from the incorrect timing may be enough of a warning, that you could stop before your world ends :shock: I personally get the feeling that a lot of failures, are due to reusing the bolt or replacing it and not doing it tight enough. The reusing it may even be down to a previous owner years earlier, like the German Holzkopf that replaced the headgasket on my G60 with one from a GTI. He could be the same tit who only replaced the big ends on 3 rods too. Gavin

Hey Darren, I saw some mirrors like that on a 22B Subaru yesterday on the way to Donnington. Maybe DemonTweeks do them or summat similar? Gavin

Thanks g-man

Chris asked to see a picture of my loom. So here it is. Sorry but I am no David Bailey! Gavin In case that doesn't work, you can see the same picture here. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288561903&idx=1

Thanks fellas. :) For anyone interested here's a picture of my loom. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288561903

Looks like it is on top of the oil filter housing. Although, I think VRs have a remote filter. The wire should be Green with a Balck tracer down it. Gavin

Steve, I like the sound of Hennys explanation. My bolt is the original as far as I know. Then I think back and when I changed my big ends 2 years ago at 90K someone had been here already. So who knows for sure???? Thing is if your car starts displaying the symptoms Henny describes, pinking, difficult to setup etc. Check the cam timing and ign timing. They will start getting further from the TDC reference. Thats when you need to change that bolt and the possibly the woodruff key and pulley. A mate of mine had a similar problem on a MK2 16V he bought. It had a 2litre engine in it. It would pull like mad on small throttle openings but if you went a little too far then it would pink badly. Luckily for Kev it sprung an oil leak from the seal behind the bottom pulley. While we were checking it out, we discovered the seal had been damaged by the woodruff key ripping into it. The Woodruff key and the bolt were replaced and its still running like a train today, 4 years later. His engine had been apart and I think the bolt had been reused and thats why it had become slack and allowed the cambelt pulley to chew the woodruff key. Kev got a 6 point bolt from VW, after hearing from C&R it was a good idea. On VWVortex there is a a guy who machines the end of the crank and the cambelt pulley so that you can have a couple of pegs fitted. That way the pulley cannot rotate except with the crank. His name is Fastbunny I think. Like Henny says you should be able to get the remainder of the bolt out if it snaps off. Without any tension on it the bit in the crank would come out with an easyout. Snap On do one that you drill into the crank and knock in a splined rod. Me I wouldn't worry. If it goes big time the crank in a G60 is the same as an 8/16 Valve. I have a brand new one in my garage, along with a brand new set of G60 rods. I ummmed and arrrd about giving the lad £30 for the lot, NOT!.. Later Gavin

You need to drill a hole in the housing and poke a drill bit in there to release it. The Haynes shows you where to drill it. Gavin

I have a couple of numbers. I can't quite tell from my ETKA which is which. 1H0 819 371 and 1H0 819 373C are the two that feed the heater. Probably not too silly from the dealer. Gavin

Swanman, I'd go for re-racking the plug on the sensor. There could be a bad connection there causing a high resistance and a false reading. We are talking oil temp arent we. Sometimes bad earths can cause strange readings. I had a MK1 Golf and stuff used to change when turning on the headlights, I never did find the problem. The readings only changed a few degrees though, not 50. Have a look round the engine and make sure the earths are good too. I missed your previous post, what engine have you got? Gavin

There are screws around the binnacle and sometimes some hidden ones behind switch blanks. Then another couple hold the clocks in. You may have to disconnect the speedo drive depending on the age of your car. Its a while since I had a C apart as I drive a Golf and a Passat. Gavin

There is no more intricate wiring diagram available. The Bentley is definitely the daddy there. Are you sure it's not just the dash bulbs that have blown? They are not too hard to replace. Gavin

I thought you'd said it were a Sprinter one. Apologies if I mislead anyone there. Clearly as you live near to Yorkshire, cheap is the most important characteristic of the IC. Flow, ease of fitment would defo be taking a low place on the list of priorities!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Are you going to rebuild it DIY?? Should I clear a space on my garage floor? Polo Classic, have you seen what people over here would take off you for a G60 intercooler. Not much use if you are two limbs short. You could get a custom made one for less money. Gavin

You say it's a 2.0 VR6. Do you mean a 2.9 VR6 or a 2.0 16V? Knowing which may get a better response from the forum. Gavin

It also means you'll use more petrol, for any given throttle position. Gazza is right about the plastic clips they are well brittle. Gvain

Well Kevlar, I was going to translate everything for you. However, if you join ebay.co.uk and then use the same log in and password. It looks like ebay.de knows who you are. All you gtota do then is make sure the person selling the stuff you want will ship to the UK. Near the bottom of the page it'll say, Versand Nur Nach - Deutschland. for only Germany or maybe Deutschland und Europe or Weltweit for worldwide. You can always ask the seller. Frage an der Verkaufer is ask the seller a question. Ask in English cos most Germans know some, enough to get by with. I haven't bought anything from Germany but the prices are pretty good I think and providing they'll ship to the UK you could save a fair bit. Gavin

He has the u bend from a Golf and a front mount from a Sprinter van. Gavin

Yeah it's in the boot, by one of the back lights usually. Only one electrical connection and then the vacuum pipe too. If that doesn't fix it, it could be a door handle problem if you are using a key to get in. If the pump is burnt out then there could be a leak somewhere which has knacked the pump. It will run almost continuously to keep the locks pulled down, until it overheats and quits. The same will happen to the replacement if you dont find the leak. Gavin